box scraper won't dig

[evisr8]

i have a king cutter 66" box scraper with scarifers. with my 8N, it will dig and fill the box with ease, the problem is, my 8N can't handle the load. so, i bought a Massey 1540 and hooked the scraper up. i have the top link retracted all the way and the scarifers all the way down, but it won't dig because the scarifers are barely touching the ground. the scraper isn't level at all. i just cut 1" off both ends of the toplink and 1" off both ends of the "bolt" to shorten the toplink to get the box level. i'll try this out tomorrow. i could weld a bracket on the scraper to give me more room for adjustments, but my hobart handler 135 will only weld 3/16" and the mounting bracket metal appears to be 3/8". if my cobble job on the toplink doesn't work, what else should i try?

 

[InlineDieselFan]

When you say the top link is all the way retracted, I assume you mean so that the scarifiers are digging into the ground and the long 66" cutting edge of the box scraper is only barely if at all touching the ground, until you start to move and then the cutting edge starts to cut.

In this way if you looked at the side view, the front (nearest the tractor 3pt) would be angled so the front is lower than the rear of the box blade?

Or is it the opposite so the front of the box blade is higher than the rear of the box blade when you look at it from the side. If this is the case move your top link the other direction.

Did any of that make sense? If I had a picture it would be easy.

steve

 

[evisr8]

the front of the box nearest to the tractor is elevated to the point where the scarifers are barely touching the ground. when i elongate the toplink, the scarifers and the top of the box nearest to the tractor come up even higher.

 

[JerryG]

This doesn't make any sense. Can you post a picture of the unit?

 

[greg_g]

Sounds like you just need to lengthen the distance between the upper and lower lift arms so that the lower lift arms drop closer to the ground. The left vertical link should be move to the innermost hole on the lower lift arm, then the right vertical length can be adjusted to match. You might have to lengthen the side stabilizers too, to allow max drop on the lower lift arms.

Also, you might want to check the owner's manual for draft control

//greg//

 

[evisr8]

i'll post a picture tomorrow. i called the dealer about the draft control, it is in the manual, but there is no lever on my new 1540. the dealer told me it was an option and it would cost me $400

 

[rswyan]

i called the dealer about the draft control, it is in the manual, but there is no lever on my new 1540. the dealer told me it was an option and it would cost me $400

Yeah well, you don't need draft control to use a boxblade so no worries there.

 

[ovrszd]

Yeah well, you don't need draft control to use a boxblade so no worries there.

He was referring to draft control allowing the arms to drop further if that happened to be the problem.

 

[ratter]

I posted basicallyl this same thread in the MF section - haven't really solved the problem yet.

Here's a pic of my BB set to maximum tilt, with the rippers dropped as far as they'll go. As you can see, by the time you lower the whole thing to the ground, the angle of tilt ain't much....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...on/57987d1153271557-1540-boxblade-woes-bb.jpg

Please post back if you have any success!

 

[rswyan]

He was referring to draft control allowing the arms to drop further if that happened to be the problem.

Yup - understood.

Rattter - that looks like a Woods boxblade - I have a GB60 myself and I would swear that the rippers drop further than that .... but then I've never really looked at it from the side.

Time for a (shorter) hydraulic toplink ?