Box Scraper Box Scraper vs 6 Way Blade

[hasslefree3]

I'm looking for some advice on which implement makes the most sense. I live on a hill but still have some flat areas on my property I'm looking to build some burms and level some areas out. I'm working with about 170 or so tri-axles of clean fill. I'm using a wheel loaded for moving the large amounts of dirt for burns and filling in really low spots. I have an M59 TLB for more detailed work and I'm wondering if a 6 way blade might better than box blade since the terrain is so varied. I haven't seen 6 way blades on any tractors perhaps they don't have traction/power required to push; I typically see the 6 way blade on tracks steers. The rear blades I have seen don't tilt with respect to the wheel base.

 

[boggen]

welcome to the forums!

3pt rear blade + 3pt box blade + TNT (top n tilt) for 3pt hitch + some sort of quick hitch for 3pt

TNT = replacing top link and a side link of the 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder. so you can adjust from seat on the fly of how the 3pt hitch implement is adjusted.

box blades generally have some sort of "ripper / scarficer" teeth built into them, so you can raise / lower. the rippers can be nice going through hard compacted dirt, to bust it up. so you can come back and use other equipment on the dirt. either moving it or smooth out ruts and like.

note: you may need to modify your 3pt hitch equipment for some 3pt quick hitch setups. (it is just one of them things, and not everything will line up). telescopic lower lift arms, pat's easy hitch, there are upside down U shapes, to triangle quick hitches. all have there con's and pro's

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i question use of a 6 way blade. there are snow plow style blades for FEL (front end loaders) but sounds like are wanting more of a bull dozer style 6 way blade. in which case... i would most likely want a subframe that ran from attachment point in front... all the way back to the rear end of the tractor. so ya not busting tractor in half, between engine / transmission, and transmission / rear end. having a backhoe, i would assume you already have a sub-frame for the backhoe. that most likely extends off the FEL frame work, and goes all the way to the back.

i would be a bit un-easy with a snow plow blade mounted on FEL. the way you are talking about. as in using like a dozer blade, and running through tree stumps even small ones, to catching rocks and other things under the dirt. and no real way to use a "trip like function" you might find on a snow plow blade. were when it hits something the blade will angle up and out of the way (for example). end result you may bend / twist the FEL arms. granted folks have ran snow plow blades on FEL arms for ages, and if memory serves no one had an issue. but more along the lines of trying to pry something up with just using the very left or very right side of the bucket, is when folks have bent/ twisted there FEL arms.

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i would say go with 3pt hitch implements. with a TNT and quick hitch. from rear blade, box blade, to a york rake, to running a rotatory cutter, to other. a TNT can make life easier and quicker with a variety of tasks.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Because a tractor three point floats, a tilting set up will not be able to cut in as deep as a six-way blade. However, small cuts are very effective. A six-way blade can put a pile of torsional forces on your loader, which will limit how deep an angled cut you can make.

I think you be better served by a rear blade but you know your property better.

 

[Citydude]

With a loader and TLB, sounds like you have what you need to get it roughed in. For a finished, smooth terrain, I would use a grading scraper.

 

[jenkinsph]

I'm looking for some advice on which implement makes the most sense. I live on a hill but still have some flat areas on my property I'm looking to build some burms and level some areas out. I'm working with about 170 or so tri-axles of clean fill. I'm using a wheel loaded for moving the large amounts of dirt for burns and filling in really low spots. I have an M59 TLB for more detailed work and I'm wondering if a 6 way blade might better than box blade since the terrain is so varied. I haven't seen 6 way blades on any tractors perhaps they don't have traction/power required to push; I typically see the 6 way blade on tracks steers. The rear blades I have seen don't tilt with respect to the wheel base.

You could do this work with a 6 way blade on a dozer but would not use the M59 for this method. Using the equipment you have I would place the dirt with the wheel loader. I would use a box blade (something like an 84" Gannon 1250lbs with tailgate and hydraulic rippers) to shape the contours and a 7 to 8 ft land plane to smooth it over.

The M59 would be a very good match for the implements I mentioned. Since the M59 handles so well the fel bucket will help a lot with shaping and contouring too. Basically using as a landscape loader with topntilt box blade would be the best match for your needs.

 

[hasslefree3]

Thanks all for the advice. I'll be looking into these suggestions which so far seem to be cheaper than the 6 way skid steer type set up I was looking at originally. My ground is exceedingly rocky so I don't plan to do much cutting I'm hoping to mostly add material to flatten things out. Each time I think I'll dig out a decent sized rock with the backhoe it turns out to be a boulder excavation so adding fill seems to be easiest way to go.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What about a 6 way blade for the 3pt hitch? These units can work very well when used by an experienced operator. :thumbsup: Not so sure any of the mentioned implements that are top quality are going to be any less money though.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree the 3pt hydraulically operated rear blade is another option that can yield good results. This would be a good choice if you need more of a sculpted landscape. If you have much in the way of swales or drainage ditches to cut this would be the best way to go. Definitely a great implement to have in the equipment arsenal.

I would like to have a good rear blade as mentioned above but currently have a simple one. I do have a box blade and landplane in the sizes mentioned and use these with a tractor similar in size to the M59. For smoothing and grading out a large lawn area I do feel the box blade and land plane will handle most of the OP's wishes.

Simple answer is it is best to have all three implements with a box blade, landplane and rear blade.

 

[houser52]

Both the blade and box come in handy but you'll find that the box is used most of the time and the blade will just sit there. I bet I haven't used my Gill scrape blade in 15 years.

When moving any amount of dirt the box is much more efficient and takes less work to get the job done. Like you, I built burms on my property and did it with the box.

I also use my box to push up small trees/shrubs, spread gravel, smooth uneven ground.

Drop the rippers on the box blade and you can cut whereas a scrape blade just skims the surface. I tried the blade but found out real quick that wasn't working too well.

Get the box first and the blade later... if you feel you even need one.