Box blade not indestructible

   / Box blade not indestructible #21  
I did exactly the same thing to my boxblade, probably on a root. Saw it after I did some spreading some dirt and grading some old dirt piles that had trees growing in them. To fix, I removed the ripper, pounded the ripped section back into place, which required a little grinder touchup to make it fit. Then I welded it back together, and then welded a 3/8x1 flatbar on the bottom edge, so if it tried to tear again it would have more trouble ripping the back out. Seems to have done the job.
I would stay away from 4wd unless required, as you want the tractor to spin when it catches something.
David from jax
 
   / Box blade not indestructible #22  
A couple of the repair I did to my box, I ripped a chunk out of the backside of the ripper tooth on both sides, one was bad the other had just started.
What I did was cut out a section and weld in back up metal , then I "v" the pieces I put in and made 3 passes with welder
I used that way for a while then I made 6 pieces of metal plate and welded in on bottom of channel, it lapped over the first repair
It work real well I used it until I found a real deal on heavier box, I sold mine and it is still being used with no problems
 

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   / Box blade not indestructible #23  
my box blade is a 5' oxen.. got it for 100$ on a roadside yard sale.

it's beat ans been welded on alot.. but I just don't use it much.. not enough to spend for a new one.


soundguy
 
   / Box blade not indestructible #24  
The one thing that jumped out to me is your running a 5' box blade on a 45 horse tractor isn't that a 6' wide tractor?? that being said the 6' box blade i wouldn't think would be much heavier I could be wrong. I run my teeth down digging up small stump and stuff all the time I just spin or run out of power before i hurt the box blade. If i'm in 2 range on my HST I will bog if I"m in 1 range on my HST I'm going slow enough to just spin before any damage and this is on a 4x4 tractor. Don't know what to say other than maybe looking at reinforcing the Box blade some how but I do weld. Best of luck to you and hope you figure out a good way to deal with the area your working on. I am working on clearing land on both sides of my creek right now on my property pulling up stumps if its to big of stump i hook a chain to it with my FEL and then push it forward and pull back on it as i lift till i pull it out of the ground. That being said the type of tree depends on how big of stump i try that with if its to big i dig with my backhoe. What works best for me is cutting the trees leaving 3' or so of stump for the FEL to push and pull on.

Yes, would have preferred 6 foot but at the time I needed a box blade really bad to finish an area so I could cut grass. I found a good used 5 foot at a good price and jumped on it. It did the job I purchased it for last year so I am pleased with it so far.
I have a two wheel drive and pretty sure I am going to spin before I do a lot of damage but I do think the burn first idea will work for me. Really new at this land clearing but I try to get as many ideas as possible and then find what works best for me.

The chain and FEL method sounds good, will give that a shot on some of them
I have a few that I left high about 4 feet for markers and to help make burn piles. (really like my burn piles, I push the bundles up tight against my marker
tree with my FEL and drive a couple of old metal fence posts to hold them tight - makes a quick hot burn)

Got several more acres to clear this fall so plenty of area to test different methods.
Thanks
 
 
 
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