Box Blade Build Questions

[Scotty370]

I've been looking/pricing a BoxBlade 60-66" for my JD4200. Prices and quality seem to be all over the park! Seems like it would be a straight forward home project. Anyone have plans they'd like to share? I did a search but couldn't fine what I'm looking for. Or, doesn't it make financial sense to try to beat the cost of a manufactured unit. I'd probably be using new 1/4" steel for the box, but then the cost of scarifers, 3ph angles, pins, etc..etc.....? Does it make sense to build? Scotty

 

[Just Bill]

Hello
Although it it a very doable project but I'm not sure how much you will save at the end.
A lot will depend on your welding and fab skills.
Don't forget the 2 blades, 1 front and 1 back and associated hardware.
Do you have a good supply for metal and a way to do the cutting?
You will pay a premium for less than full sheet and full bar stock.
I would make a trip to an equipment dealer with a tape measure and sketch pad to start.
Good luck with the project.

 

[petes]

I was thinking of building a 48" bb, but came to the conclusion that I'd have close or equal the cost of a brand new one just in materials, not counting any scrap or leftovers:
~300lbs of steel (1/4" plate, 4" angle, 3" square tube and some 3/8" x 2 flatbar) at approx. $0.75/lb
Ripper shanks with hardened teeth - $30 ea x 4
Cutting edges - 48" at $?? x 2 (probably $50 ea)
Pins for 3pt mount - $15
Bolts and hardware - $15
Materials estimate total ~$475, not including welding wire, paint, grinding wheels, cut charges, etc.

New 48" United can be had for $515

'course it'd be different if I had a big scrap pile to pick from, but I don't. I could leave out the cutting edges and make it a bit lighter, but that's not really what I want. I'm holding out for a good used one to come along.

 

[Scotty370]

There being no further comments, I'll take this as a "No", don't bother, a home built? ~Scotty

 

[Djames55]

Buy used all day for $200.00 to $250.00 save your money and time.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A lot of things to consider. Can you roll the steel for the moldboards? Are you trying to duplicate a $500 box or a $3600 box blade? Do you have all the tools that it will take to make it properly, or will you need to rent, barrow or pay someone else to do parts of it? Have you considered used? I have seen $2500-$3000 box blades in very good condition for $500-$800. Your not going to build a good box for that money.

In general for most people, I would say that it is better to buy one.

 

[MJPetersen]

Scotty,

I built a rollover, so I can say that definitely it is possible. If you have a desire to do it and like doing such things, then I say go ahead. It is really not all that difficult, but requires time. I made mine from looking at pictures and I made a rough sketch that more or less guided my finished project. If I can be of help in the process, just ask. Pictures of Brian's rollover is what made me decide to make a rollover rather than a regular box, plus the thought of climbing on and off the tractor every time I wanted to raise or lower the scarifiers. Link to my project is in signature.

Mike

 

[Renze]

Usually, home made only pays off if you have a supply of cheap used steel to re-use, if you have a retired piece of machinery which you can partially re-use in your project, or if your requirements beyond what the average mass produced product has to offer. If any of the first two requirements are not met, you're wasting time because you wont save money on it.

 

[Scotty370]

Thanks Guys! The other reason I asked, is that scanning Craigslist,I find more ads for "Box-Blade Wanted" than ones for sale! Same is true with a TPH 5-6' disk that I'd like to get a hold of! Guess I'm in the wrong part of the country for this used stuff and going to have to 'bite the bullet', and buy new. Again, thanks for the input! ~Scotty

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks Guys! The other reason I asked, is that scanning Craigslist,I find more ads for "Box-Blade Wanted" than ones for sale! Same is true with a TPH 5-6' disk that I'd like to get a hold of! Guess I'm in the wrong part of the country for this used stuff and going to have to 'bite the bullet', and buy new. Again, thanks for the input! ~Scotty

Same thing here. I looked and looked for a BB and a 6' disk. Took me 7 years to get the disk and its in bad shape but I go it for scrap price of only $30. The BB is still a no go.

Chris

 

[Taylortractornut]

I say go for it. I build most of my attachments for the Skidsteer excavator and tractors. I have a good supply of steel at the scrap yard for 20 cents a pound, Im about to build dad a 4 foot box blade for his Pasquali articulated tractor. He wants one that will dig goos when grading. We looked at a 4 foot or two lately and the 1/4 inch sides and blade mount looked weak. I fell better spending 170 to 200 for a home built blade than 400 for an economy rig that wont grade the drive way. The teeth on mine are like the ones on the older Atlas and United blades that has a straight shank with the tooth shank welded on at an angle.

 

[2manyrocks]

If you've got the steel, the time to cut it and weld it, the welding equipment and a specific purpose, then DIY may be okay, but for most folks a generic used box blade is probably most cost effective.

I would like to see pictures of the Pasquali. I've only seen one picture in a farm equipment book from the late 1970's.

 

[RKAISER49]

Currently building an 8' BB. First try at anything like this - glad a friend is lending occasional assistance. It will be nice to have, and in the end money will be saved. A new one would run about twice what we'll spend. However, there is a caveat to that in that we are able to scavenge axles, etc. from used/old equipment and that saves a ton of money. rk

 

[petes]

I built mine 6 years ago for my Kubota B7100 and have no regrets. It's 4ft wide. I used 1/4" plate for the end caps, 4x4x1/4" angle set like this ^ to support the cutting edges. I made my own cutting edges out of some wear resistant plate by plasma cutting at an angle (that step didn't work great, but OK) and tacked them onto the angle so I can grind the welds to replace them if/when they wear out. 2x2x1/4 square tube for the framework and 1" square tube "gussets" to the rear crossmember to triangulate the toplink point. I welded up boxes out of 1/4x2 to the front of the front crossmember to guide the rippers. I think I got the ripppers from TSC ($15-ish each) It's probably around 250 lbs which is too light, so I have a lead block set in a tray on top to help it dig in. I used thin (14ga) plate for the back of the box because that's what I had kicking around, but 1/4" oor thicker would have been nice for the weight. Other than the rippers I make it entirely out of steel I had around, even including the pins. I use it quite a lot and coudn't be happier with it for $60 and a day of fabrication.

 

[woodchipper]

Scotty,
Follow your intuition on this... If there is that little voice wispering something at the back of your ears, then listen to it, and act accordingly
Building a BB is a big project. You know when you start, but don't know when you will finish.
Steel is expensive, and if you don't have a good used source for it, then it may turn the project into a money pit...
The best way to get started is with a sheet of paper, a sharp pencil, a good eraser, a ruller, and a calculator! Draw something to your liking, then figure out material cost, and go from there. There is nothing as satisfying as bringing to life a simple thought/idea! We all are creators.
Good luck with it!