Bolens QT 16 Question

[docrocky]

Yup...I am the same guy with the QT16 tranny question back a few months ago..Can't remember how I solved the problem but i got it running and she is powerful. But,,,2 weeks ago as I was running on smooth ground when a sudden clank and we stopped moving. The motor was running but no forward motion. Found out that the Onan engine runs a drive shaft to the rear hydraulic(?hydro stat) and the yoke to the universal joint sheared. Any recomendations on how to remove the drive shaft . The universal yoke closes to the engine sheared. The shaft mounts to the rear of the engine by 4 bolts that looks like a flange. This is only about 4 inches long then the first universal. Then the shaft couples with another universal as it couples to the transmission. The connection nearest the engine has a bolt at the connector which I removed but I cant budge the shaft .loose. I tried the rust buster but no help. Any suggestions or approaches??
Thank You

 

[docrocky]

Yup...I'm back...didn't have pictures when I placed the thread. I am assuming that the shaft is splined but I am concerned that if I heat it to break the rust, I will destroy the small fan which I assume cools the tranny. Also any problem of removing the 4 bolts holding the ? flange at the engine rear?

 

[daisydog3]

First of all,yes the fan cools the hydraulic pump which the shaft is turning. The fan is plastic, so keep heat away from it. Remove the 4 bolts from the engine end of the shaft and you'll get out the broken part, then you can put it in a vice and heat it, or whatever you have to do to get it apart.
Then it's part hunting time. Good luck.

 

[docrocky]

daisydog3: Thanks for the reply. The connection of the shaft to the tranny is my biggest concern since that plastic fan won't move forward more than an 1/8 to 1/4 inch out of the way. I wonder if I should slice it through the bolt hole then repair it with a sleeve. I have tried several applications of my Kano as well as Rust buster to no avail. I have used a large hammer and punches but no movement. I'm a little afraid of doing some damage to the tranny (Hydrostat). I wonder if a gear puller would help if I can get one to fit the narrow space? I also wonder if the heat from the torch could result in damage to the tranny mechanism? In regards to parts replacement, I am assuming that the universal is fairly standard??? I would cut off the broken one and weld on the new???

Thanks Again

 

[daisydog3]

I would first go online and search for replacement parts availability. That way you know what you could get, and therefore what you can afford to ruin, and that will help in your decision. The shaft connects to a hydraulic pump which is nestled into the front of the transmission, and it's aluminum case, so keep in mind that aluminum melts at just 450 degrees and the plastic much less. There are also rubber seals in the pump so I would not suggest using a torch here unless maybe you can find a whole driveshaft assembly to replace the one you have, then you could cut out the shaft in the center where heat would not bother the pump end. If you have access to an air hammer maybe you could use that to loosen some of the parts, that at least would not melt anything. You can buy an air chisel kit with a hammer with it for under $30. or so.
I know you don't want to spend too much on this, but keep in mind that your tractor is worthless at this point. At least by using your own labor, you're not paying some mechanic $65. an hour.

 

[docrocky]

daisydog3 et others: The part of the shaft that connects to the hydraulic pump is hard steel but all the other internal connections are of concern. Certainly, I do not want to heat it for all the risks you have enumerated. The next question would be can the universal joint be dismantled at the end that I will provide a photo of? My next choice would be to cut the shaft in its middle, replace the broken u joint and re weld the shaft with a reinforced sleeve over it. Another source feels that TSC has a u joint that will fit what I need it to do. I have tried to dilodge the rear end connection in front of the hydraulic pump but no go what so ever.

Any other suggestions are welcomed.

 

[docrocky]

Can anyone tell me how to uncouple this type of u-joint? There are no snap rings that i can find. How are the cups held in place?
Thanks
docRocky

 

[mrmikey]

I picked up an ole 1666 with a 17H Kohler a few years back that was vibrating so bad all the tin bolts were out. The complete driveshaft was toast and was worn so bad it would shake something terrible. I lucked out in that both ends are 1" keyed shafts so it was a standard size, I used an industrial setup, yokes, slip spline, spider the whole thing. It looks like you might have to do the same......Mike

 

[docrocky]

Thank You Mike: Could you give me some details or describe in more detail as to what you mean by: "industrial set up", "yokes", "slip spine" and "spider the whole thing"..Is this in reference to removing the bad drive shaft or what you replaced it with. Also can I safley heat the connections to dislodge them or not. How can one preserve the plastic fan locked in front of the hydrostat tranny ? Do you know if TSC has the replacement yokes/u-joints that would replace what I need? Do you have the ability to reply with any photo attachments....We old timers (77 yo) not only move slowly out brains also think slow these days...DocRocky

 

[mrmikey]

I went to a local truck shop and told them what I had, 1" keyed shaft both ends and they gathered all the parts for me. Heres a pic of a driveshaft with the parts named http://tinyurl.com/n2f5kt2 . Its a cv joint so it has two joints on one end where ours only has 1 as well its a flange end as opposed to a shaft.

Starting at right end you'd have, 1" keyed yoke, spider (or cross), tube yoke (female slip splined sleeve),spline sleeve (male slip splined sleeve), driveshaft tube, welded yoke, spider, 1" splined yoke.

I would try and warm them up a bit. I'd be more worried about the seals and heat more so that the aluminum. If you start prying and hammering on the aluminum be careful that you don' break it or better still, don't pry against the aluminum at all. If you're fast with a torch, and I've done it, you can split the old yoke and dose it with water so the seal doesn't get fried but you have to be fast before the heat goes thru the input shaft.

As for the fan, there wasn't one on mine, I presume it vibrated off so it was a non-issue. In your case it might be sacrificial.

Don't know about TSC, living in Nova Scotia we have Princess Auto but they didn't have everything so I gave it up as a lost cause

I tried taking pics but they weren't any good, too dark and too much stuff in the way......Mike