Blowing Fuse for Guages

[MrFixit]

Yesterday was the first time I had a chance to put my new KAMA 354 to work. First thhing I noticed was all the guages were not functioning except maybe the ammeter. I checked the fuses and sure enough the second one from left was blown. These are the type of fuses that have extra fuse material wound up so a fresh fuse can be made. The new fuse blew instantly also.

I noticed that all dash lights and external lights still worked except for the REAR WORK LIGHT on the fender. So I flipped all the switches off until I found one that made no changes, that one must be the work light switch. After flipping the work light switch off I did not blow any more dash fuses.

I would like to know if anybody can help answer these questions:

Is the high current rear work light supposed to be on the same circuit (Fuse) as the low current guages?

Do I need a higher amp fuse material for this circuit?

How do I tell what current rating this fuse material is rated for?

Thanks!

Tim

 

[bluechip]

So does the fuse blow when you turn on the worklight? If so check and be sure the wire harness leading to the left rear fender did not get pinched when the fender was bolted on by your dealer. (don't ask me how I know about this one). the wiring diagram is in your operator manual. I don't have one here at home. Could be the fuses got put in the wrong slots. The only one I remember is the far right is supposed to be 30amp. I think the one you mention is a 10 amp fuse.

 

[greg_g]

All the lighting and the horn are on the accessories fuse, and go through the ACC post on the ignition switch. A fault in any one accessory - or the ignition switch - can/will take out the whole circuit. In your case, I believe the 12v supply wire to the worklight is shorted against metal somewhere. There are only two wires there, one is a short one that's bolted to ground on purpose. It's the other one that you want to trace back to find the short.

//greg//

 

[MrFixit]

Thanks Greg and Chip!

Yep the internal connector inside light fixture has 2 insulators, and one had slipped down the wire allowing it to touch any ground it wanted. I put a couple inches of Heat Shrink Tube over the connectors to avoid this ever happening again.

The circuit draws 500 milliamps with gages only and 4 amps with light on. The 10 amp fuse should now hold up.

I was expecting something like a 1 amp fuse for (500 mA) gages and the lights on a seperate circuit. I'll have to start thinking more like a Chinaman in the future!

Tim

 

[mark1]

Hi Mr Fixit, The Chinese wire wrapped fuse wire is 5 amp .008 thousands,10 amp .013, 15 amp .020, 30 amp .030
I have spare cards of them
Mwilson8@rochester.rr.com
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MrFixit]

Thanks Mark,

I blew the fuse once and then went to troubleshoot the problem with a ammeter. My cheapo ammeter only goes up to 10 amps DC and when it burried the needle I knew something was shorted. I still have plenty of wire left, thanks for the offer.

I'm thinking of moving the Work Light to a different Fuse circuit and installing a 1 Amp PICO fuse for the gages only. I'm also thinking of getting rid of the wire wound stuff altogether. I'll do a current reading for each circuit and install a PICO fuse across the existing clips where the wire used to go.

One advantage of using a PICO fuse is I can read the darn label on the side of fuse to tell what rating it is! Other advantages are being able to select fast acting or slow blow. They are also easy to find (Locally) and available in just about any AMP rating you desire. Hopefully the Fuse Body will fit in the small space provided in fuse block of tractor. At the moment I can't think of any other disadvantages.

I think Littelfuse has them for up to 30 amps in Fast Blow type.
For anybody not familiar with PICO fuses they have a small fuse body in the middle (And AMP Rating Stamp) with a wire on each end. The wires are bendable and should be able to clip onto the existing fuses of my KAMA 354. They can be obtained at just about any electronic shop. A popular brand is www.littelfuse.com

If anybody sees any down sides to converting to PICO fuses please let me know.

Thanks,

Tim