Block Heater??

[jk96]

When the temps are below freezing the diesel gets plugged in. $0.18/kwh is a lot cheaper than a starter and the added heat makes them (a) start easier and (b) warm up faster. The gasser gets a couple of hours of block heater after the tractor is running for the same reasons.

Wow - 0.18/kwh? I was complaining when we moved and my rates went from .08 to .13/kwh.

 

[ovrszd]

Diesel engines with common rail systems and electronic injectors start much better than old design mechanical injection pumps that simply dump fuel in at a predetermined rate.

Reason being the computer adds a very tiny shot of fuel on the compression stroke at cold ambient temps that starts the combustion process seamlessly. The difference in cold starting is night and day.

If your tractor has an old school injection pump then a block heater will help. Cold here and when the temps hit zero my machines won't start without a little help.

Regards, Fred

My 2012 Kubota doesn't have a block heater, uses Glow Plugs. It starts fairly easy. I haven't tried it at teens or lower temps.

My 1984 Ford has a block heater and no Glow Plugs. It starts hard, even at temps around freezing, if you don't use the block heater.

As Fred explained, two completely different designs involved.

I'm a believer of block heaters if you are going to continually start your diesel engine cold. I think it's just much easier on the mechanicals involved. I wouldn't think of cranking our JD770G Road Grader without plugging it in first when temps are at 20F degrees or lower.

 

[Brotherdan]

Being a transplant to the flatlands of the eastern seaboard, our coldest winter day is a warm spring morning by northern Idaho standards.

Tractor motors are usually heavy, and it takes a LOT of heat to warm one up. Even on warm days, it takes longer than you might assume for the oil to make it up and around most engines. Warming the oil should/may help reduce that time it takes for the oil to first get around. BUT, it's going to be stone cold when it gets back to the pan. Water jacket heating helps a bit with that, but I've noticed they are better for frequently used machinery (at least daily) if it's being used without heating the oil. So, if the goal is to reduce the overall punishment to the machine, you first should sign-up to letting the tractor warm-up for at least the time it takes for a cup of coffee and two smokes after it starts regardless of whatever warming (if any) you choose.

I really hope this is stating the obvious, but over the last couple decades I've noticed a tendency of people to be in gear and rolling before the starter quits spinning.

 

[RNeumann]

Diesel engines with common rail systems and electronic injectors start much better than old design mechanical injection pumps that simply dump fuel in at a predetermined rate.

Reason being the computer adds a very tiny shot of fuel on the compression stroke at cold ambient temps that starts the combustion process seamlessly. The difference in cold starting is night and day.

If your tractor has an old school injection pump then a block heater will help. Cold here and when the temps hit zero my machines won't start without a little help.

Regards, Fred

This makes sense. Also explains why some are some adamant it helps while others say they don't need it.

 

[RNeumann]

Being a transplant to the flatlands of the eastern seaboard, our coldest winter day is a warm spring morning by northern Idaho standards.

Tractor motors are usually heavy, and it takes a LOT of heat to warm one up. Even on warm days, it takes longer than you might assume for the oil to make it up and around most engines. Warming the oil should/may help reduce that time it takes for the oil to first get around. BUT, it's going to be stone cold when it gets back to the pan. Water jacket heating helps a bit with that, but I've noticed they are better for frequently used machinery (at least daily) if it's being used without heating the oil. So, if the goal is to reduce the overall punishment to the machine, you first should sign-up to letting the tractor warm-up for at least the time it takes for a cup of coffee and two smokes after it starts regardless of whatever warming (if any) you choose.

I really hope this is stating the obvious, but over the last couple decades I've noticed a tendency of people to be in gear and rolling before the starter quits spinning.

I understand this concept. The manual says to bring the engine to 1500 rpm- ideal RPM for top end, cam and cylinder lubrication.

 

[holeycow]

The old "should I get a block heater?" thread.

Those of us who know better are quite amused by those who say "mine starts, so I don't need one". Lol.

My stuff will start too. I just don't feel a need to punish them needlessly.

 

[Bavarian]

I would recommend a block heater for the northern IA area.
There was a report someday about engine oils in cold truck engines. It took a 15w40 oil about 90 seconds to get to all points of the engine when started at -40. This puts enormous stress on some parts of the engine. And it will be always the same parts running dry.
Lighter oil and/or applying heat will reduce this time.
Adjust the your equipment to the area you live in.
NEVER increase RPM to build up oil pressure. ALWAY'S start in low idle and have it idling for a while before adding fuel. If you have to add fuel to get it started, you have a problem elsewhere. Heat might help.

 

[RNeumann]

The old "should I get a block heater?" thread.

Those of us who know better are quite amused by those who say "mine starts, so I don't need one". Lol.

My stuff will start too. I just don't feel a need to punish them needlessly.

This offers very little. I was asking for data (web links etc) that show the reason to or not to use one. Lol.....

 

[RNeumann]

I would recommend a block heater for the northern IA area.
There was a report someday about engine oils in cold truck engines. It took a 15w40 oil about 90 seconds to get to all points of the engine when started at -40. This puts enormous stress on some parts of the engine. And it will be always the same parts running dry.
Lighter oil and/or applying heat will reduce this time.
Adjust the your equipment to the area you live in.
NEVER increase RPM to build up oil pressure. ALWAY'S start in low idle and have it idling for a while before adding fuel. If you have to add fuel to get it started, you have a problem elsewhere. Heat might help.

I understand this concept (thickening oil in cold temps) and have seen it first hand. It would make sense to use an oil heater for this right?

 

[RedNeckRacin]

This offers very little. I was asking for data (web links etc) that show the reason to or not to use one. Lol.....

Use your ears. If you can't tell the difference in cranking over a motor with and without a block heater then don't use one. Why do you need data to figure this out? If the machine starts easier why not use it?