Blades you cannot sharpen? BAHHH!!

[slowrev]

I balance my blades by putting a box knife blade in a vise with the sharp side up and center the hole over the blade. Whichever side goes down I grind a bit more off till it is balanced.

 

[Dave___in___CT]

Hi...


Things change...

Remember the straight razor you sharpened ?
Almost a thing of the past I'll guess...


Dave...

 

[jayhawkRoy]

Sears owner's manual (model 917.272082): "NOTE: WE do not recommend sharpening blade - but if you do, be sure the blade is balanced." They go on to talk about using either a cone balancer or a 5/8" dia steel bolt or pin.

As I stated before, we got a poor cut after my son sharpened and balanced the blade. Since it is the only blade set we have had trouble with, I think the problem is with the blade and not with my son /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I also believe that balance should not be an issue, because of how little metal gets ground off. The manual lists only one blade for this mower. Next time, I will look into the gator blades, assuming I can get a match.

A couple of my friends all have 20HP+ Craftsman mowers and they are happy with their cutting performance. Hopefully Craftsman has changed their blade configuration -- otherwise it is certainly a point to ask about if you're shopping for a new garden tractor.

 

[shvl73]

A common problem is the blade being installed inverted. Sharpen them more frequently with a file, die grinder or dremel & there will be less metal to remove, almost no heat build up to remove the temper. They will cut very well. I use the sears "wavy" mulching blades mostly, but when I'm cutting tall or slightly wet grass, I change to the high lift & remove the mulch plug. Mulching needs to be done on dry grass & should be done on a regular basis so as not needing to cut more than 1/3 of the blade to achieve the desired grass length. My lawn looks great & mulching reduces the fertilizer maintenence. Also if mulching is done with the grass even a little damp, the grass will build up under the deck & it will stay clogged untill cleaned out & the cut will look terrible.

 

[JP11]

Blades-

I decided that there was no way I could match the quality of a local tool shop.

They sharpen all kinds of blades, carbide saw blades.. everything.

Costs me 5 bucks a blade.. and they look like new. They did my 'wavy' mulching blades from my old craftsman before I sold it.

Find someone that has the right tools to do the job right.

JP

 

[slammer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Blades-

I decided that there was no way I could match the quality of a local tool shop.

They sharpen all kinds of blades, carbide saw blades.. everything.



Costs me 5 bucks a blade.. and they look like new. They did my 'wavy' mulching blades from my old craftsman before I sold it.

Find someone that has the right tools to do the job right.

JP )</font>

Not a bad idea but but not really necessary for such a simple task. Anyway $5 is steep for standard sized blades most shops are $3.

Slam

 

[AndyM]

<font color="blue"> Anyway $5 is steep for standard sized blades most shops are $3. </font>

I lack the patience to sharpen chainsaw chains, so I have six chains (three for each chainsaw), and I take all of them to the local Sharpening Shop. He does all six at the same time for $18. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I think he still does blades for two or three dollars each.