Chains Binder & Chains

[smoothie17]

Could someone post some pictures showing the correct way to attach the chains to the load and the trailer? Do you hook the end of the chain to the D-Ring; do you wrap the chain around the D-Ring or what? I've been using straps the last 2 years and just purchased chains and ratchet binders yesterday and want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[RonR]

Oh, Smoothie, did you open a can of worms!

If you do a search on binders or straps or chaining down, you will be inundated with opinions and "facts".

It's almost like asking if Orange is better than Green on an open forum!

There's the 2 vs 4 chain camp, the chains vs straps camp, rachet binders vs overcenter binders, only the tractor or every attached implement camp, Grade 43 vs 70 chain camp, the DOT vs state regulations camp, etc, etc.

Personally, I use two chains, one over-center binder. 45 Degree angle on each. I have a clevis on the front and back of the tractor. Chain the back , then move the tractor tight, then chain front with binder. I wrap the chain around itself (cross it) at each clevis to keep it from sliding. This is the right way
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif to do it!

BTW, I saw one of our city pickups /trailers hauling a small tractor/mower yesterday. I can't be sure (it was at a distance), but I'm pretty sure they held it on the trailer with a only a nylon strap across the operator platform. This is NOT a good way to do it, and I plan to contact the city park boss to let him know that's not a safe practice.......................

Have fun,
Ron

 

[smoothie17]

I've seen all the posts about straps vs. chain but I'm not trying to start that all over again. That's like asking Ford or Chevy? Mostly interested in attaching the chain to the D-Rings. I could have saved myself the price of one binder if I remembered to attach the chain on one end of the load and then move the load itself to tighten.

Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

[RonR]

Just keep the binder and take it with you. Never know when you might want to put it in the mix. If you see a chain is loose and you need to tighten stuff up in a hurry, you can slap that binder on quickly and move on.

I should add: Most of my hauls are <30 minutes at speeds <30MPH. If I were going cross country, I might do it a little differently.

Ron

 

[Highbeam]

I think the question is on how to use the chain and not whether to use, how many, or what grade of chain.

I use the stake pockets on the trailer and 4 chains with hooks on each end. I drop the hook through the stake pocket then wrap it to the outside where it is hooked to the stake pocket forming a loop. This method allows the hook to stay hooked even if the chain goes slack. Around the tractor I run the chain through the tractor frame and then hook it onto itself. Most D-rings out there are too thick to allow the chain hook to be directly hooked on the D-ring, you'll have to run the chain through the d-ring and hook it back on itself.

Routing the chains is also difficult since the angle of the chain to the tractor makes a big difference in how secure the load is.

 

[smoothie17]

Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

[George2615]

I use 5 chains. The 2 chains at the rear I drop through a stake pocket then up to clevis hooks on the back end of the tractor, then I pull forward to take up the slack. On the front end I use 2 more chains. I go around the tractor frame and drop the chain through a stake pocket on each side. Then I connect the two chain ends with a ratchet binder on each side and tighten them up. A 5th chain goes in a stake pocket on each side and chain is hooked to hooks I mounted on each side of my bucket. Bucket is then curled to take up slack. Rear implements usually get strapped down.

 

[LeadPoison]

My dealer delivered my M4900 with FEL and 6' cutter with one frayed strap. I know. I couldn't beleive it either.

 

[snal]

I've read were several of you chain the back...then pull forward till the chain is tight....I'm curious as to why this method is used rather than using binders at the rear....is it just to keep from having to buy rear binders?

Speaking of binders, which type is prefered...the cam-lock type....or ratchet type?

I'll be hauling mine for the first time in a few weeks, using my 16' car hauler. It only has D rings in the front, and pieces of flat bar welded across the C channel side rails....I think I'll weld some pieces of channel vertically, so I can hook the chain the way you guys are talking about.

 

[George2615]

I'll be brave and answer that. I don't want to buy another set of ratchet binders for the rear. It is faster to drop on the chains and pull forward till they tighten up then use ratchet binders up front. I also prefer ratchet binders. I have cam type binders but don't use them. I have busted my knuckles and pinched fingers several times and had them pop open a few times too.
Most Tractor Supply stores sell stake pockets and D-rings you can weld on to your trailer too.

 

[RobertN]

I used to chain by the method you describe, until I found out it is illegal in the state of California. In fact, it is pretty much just plain illegal everywhere...

<font color="red">You're best course of action is to do as I did; contact your local Highway Patrol/State Trooper office. </font> Ask them to explain the requirements for your State; it does vary state to state.

Here is the text from my email communication with CHP:
The California Highway Patrol (CHP), Commercial Vehicle Section received your e-mail dated March 14, 2004, regarding the proper way to secure your small tractor to a trailer.

Section 29004 (a) (3) of the California Vehicle Code (VC) states in part, any vehicle transported on a conventional trailer shall be secured by at least four tiedown chains, straps, or an equivalent device. In addition, it is your responsibility to ensure the vehicle is safely secured for transportation on the highway. The type of securement device you use is only limited to its ability to safely secure the load. Therefore, a ratchet style cargo strap may be utilized to secure your load.

Thank you for the opportunity to assist you in this matter. Should you desire further information, please do not hesitate to contact


Further phone conversation with them indicated a chain/binder or ratchet strap on each corner...

I use cam-lock binders, mostly out of habit; it is what my Dad used to use, and what I was familiar with when I started trailering.

 

[npaden]

<font color="red"> In fact, it is pretty much just plain illegal everywhere...

</font>

Not in Texas or New Mexico or Colorado or Nebraska or Oklahoma or Arkansas or ??

From my understanding, California and some of the more populated East coast states may be the only places that it is illegal.

In Texas the laws vary dramatically if it is for commercial use or not and if the combined vehicle weight with trailer is over 26,000lbs.

 

[RobertN]

Previously posted pictures. The back of my tractor. I have a 16' trailer; even with my smaller 4' rotary mower, the tail wheel hangs over.

 

[RobertN]

Front, with loader lifted for picture

 

[smoothie17]

Thanks for the replies & photos!

 

[RobertN]

You are correct, as I mentioned too, regulations vary widely. As I pointed out, the best course of action is to contact your local Highway Patrol/State Trooper office and find out the specific requirements for your state. The folks at the CHP main offices, and my local substation, were very curteous and helpful.

 

[vango]

Per on-line NYS info:

A minimum of two securing devices is required by federal law for a vehicle with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or less. A minimum of four securing devices is required by federal law for a vehicle over 10,000 pounds. It is highly recommended that four securing devices be used for all vehicles -- two in the front and two in the back.