Beware of Husqvarna Garden Tractors, Front Scoop "Capable"?

cdaigle430 · Nov 17, 2020

bfor said:
So does anyone know if Husqvarna is planning on changing back to the C - Channel frame / chassis. I am concidering purchasing a TS 354xd for grass cutting and attaching a snow blower to it from my old Craftsman YT4000 (which oddly enough is a lower end riding mower but has the stronger C - Channel chassis/frame). I am concerned the frame will not be able to handle it and will buckle. I think that if it is being called a "Garden Tractor" at this price range with the K66 and Professional grade Kawasaki engine should have a C-Channel frame and be able to handle at least a snowblower but maybe not a Johnny Bucket which would better be left to a SCUT. I have also looked at the Cub Cadet XT2 GX54D which has the C-Channel frame and would be very comparable, does anyone have any thoughts or insights

Best bet is to go to an actual Husvarna dealership and ask away-they will be honest with you-at least mine is. Sad to say but Husvarna like all manufacturers will make a version just for the box stores like Lowes, Sears or ACE and they do make things cheaper in order for them to sell more. I can say for certain because these tractors can come with a stamped deck or a fabricated deck-orange vs black vs grey decks. Orange deck is premium, grey is middle and black stamped is the lower one. This is from my experience and the premium deck can only me obtained by buying the tractor from an authorized dealership I believe.

Richard001 · Nov 19, 2020

Slowpoke Slim said:
Well, I for one think that I won't be useful in 36 years, so who cares if my lawn mower is?

:laughing:

ME
My JC Penney 10HP tractor is about 40 years old and still cuts the grass just fine.

Richard

Slowpoke Slim · Dec 12, 2020

cdaigle430 said:
Best bet is to go to an actual Husvarna dealership and ask away-they will be honest with you-at least mine is. Sad to say but Husvarna like all manufacturers will make a version just for the box stores like Lowes, Sears or ACE and they do make things cheaper in order for them to sell more. I can say for certain because these tractors can come with a stamped deck or a fabricated deck-orange vs black vs grey decks. Orange deck is premium, grey is middle and black stamped is the lower one. This is from my experience and the premium deck can only me obtained by buying the tractor from an authorized dealership I believe.

I can't say that would always be the case. I bought mine from Lowe's here in town (you know, one of those "evil" big box stores, selling the "evil box store only" models):

It has the orange deck on it. They had a whole row of them sitting there for sale at the time. I'm not sure why these had the orange deck and not the cheaper black one? But it wasn't something I ordered special. So far, mine's been fine. No issues of any kind (other than replacing blades when I "found" something in the tall grass). Mine's in hibernation for the winter now. Fuel tank is drained and carb run dry, and there's a battery tender on the (still original) battery.

CptSteelHead · Dec 14, 2020

I'd go with cub cadet JMO

artfull dodger · Feb 14, 2021

But, None of the current garden tractors, save maybe the Cub Cadet XT3 hold a candle to older GT's with metal body work, shaft driven, heavy duty transaxles that do not overheat with the slightest load. JD with their fragile high doller hoods ect. Sadly, the garden tractors of the old days have morphed into the sub compact line of tractors today. The last Wheel Horse classics built were over $8K with no options, those added more to the cost. At that time you could get an entry level Kubota Bx for just under $10k and those give you liquid cooled diesel, proper front end loaded ability, rear 3 point hitch and 540rpm pto. For those that like a small GT, look to older Cub Cadets, JD 300 and 400 class machines(both gas and diesel), Kubota G series(mostly all diesel). I myself have a Kubota G1900. Big enough for all my chores but not to big. A SCUT is just a bit to large with the typical mower decks they use. I paid less for the G1900 than most new lawn tractors sell for these days. Mike

billfires · Feb 26, 2021

My 1984 Work Horse GT1100 was $1699.00 MSRP with no options. It has an 11 HP Briggs & Stratton engine, 8 spd transaxle and has a steel angle frame. It was rated for a Front End Loader, land plow, and other ground engaging implements. I bought it with a 48" Dozer blade, wheel weights, and chains for an additional $400.00. The similar Wheel Horse with a 10 HP Kohler engine was $2999.00, but had more deluxe features. The GT1100 helped with clearing a house lot and did extensive back filling of a 28x50 foundation and a 150' long well line. It hauled all the fill for a 35' retaining wall in a 17 cu/ft trailer that was heaped full on each load. I also cleared a 20" wet snow fall at a neighbors new house construction that an older 2wd full size backhoe gave up on, due to not being able to get traction on the ice underneath. The only major problem was/is a rear axle seal that has let go. I could not find a new garden tractor that is similar so will probably try to find an extremely well taken cared for 25 +/- model with a hydrostatic transmission and hydraulic lift. Bill C

Gem99ultra · Mar 1, 2021

This is almost off-topic... but I often pickup my GTH26V52LS Husqvarna up to almost vertical

by the front bumper with my tractor for servicing the blades, deck cleaning, etc..
Now, with the above info, I'm scared to death that it will simply break in half and fall on me.

What do you think - is the frame strong enough for what I'm doing, or is that a death wish?

Rock Crawler · Mar 1, 2021

Gem99ultra said:
This is almost off-topic... but I often pickup my GTH26V52LS Husqvarna up to almost vertical View attachment 688242by the front bumper with my tractor for servicing the blades, deck cleaning, etc..
Now, with the above info, I'm scared to death that it will simply break in half and fall on me.

What do you think - is the frame strong enough for what I'm doing, or is that a death wish?

I think that the danger is during the lift, once it's nearly vertical you aren't holding much weight at all with the front bumper. If you don't break it on the heavy part of the lift, I can't see it breaking once it's standing nearly on end and the load is nearly gone from the bumper.

That said, I just slide the deck out and clean/sharpen then I slide it back. I tore bumper off of my older Cub XT3 GSX by attempting to lift it as you describe. I learned a lesson there.

Slowpoke Slim · Mar 1, 2021

I lift mine by wrapping chains around the front axle, place a 2x4 piece of lumber across the chains to keep them from rubbing on the hood, and lift by hooking chains to my FEL bucket. Mine doesn't have the front bumper, but I'm not sure I would chain to it if I did. I don't get under it while it's up, but it's handy to reach underneath to pull out that got wrapped around a spindle. Also good for sliding the deck in and out when taking it off for scraping the underside.