Best heavy duty rear blade ?????

[devildog1]

I am looking at heavy duty 8-9 foot rear blades (those rated for 100 hp). As between Bushog, Woods and Landpride, which do you prefer and why?

This is my Land Pride RB3584 , as you can see it's quite heavy duty. I had a RB1572 before and believe me there is no comparison.
DevilDog

 

[MtnViewRanch]

For road maintenance, you should have both the rear blade and a grader blade. Actually a good heavy duty or even an industrial box blade would be nice to have also. I have all of those plus a land scape rake and I only maintain 2 & 3/8 miles of roads. I would not be without the grader blade. It simply is indispensable when it comes to maintaining our roads. don't get me wrong, I use my rear blade on the road also, but for general overall maintenance, a grader blade is pretty hard to beat. As you probably already know, weight is your friend when it comes to grading, the heavier the better.

Here is a pic or two of my grader blade. Oh, you might want to consider getting Top and Tilt hydraulics for your 3pt hitch with as much grading as you have to do.

 

[boggen]

with that much road, would look at a TNT (top and tilt) for the 3 pt hitch. so you can easily adjust top link with a cylinder, and adjust one of the lower lift arms with a cylinder. to adjust angle and tilt, of a rear scrapper blade, box blade, or land plane / grader blade.

the TNT more so the ""tilt"" can be nice to help keep the "crown" of the road. to allow better water run off. the TNT "top" can be nice adjust forward to backward angle of rear blade, but more so box blade. to cut differently into the dirt.

rear blades, can get ugly, on dirt / gravel roads. and if not careful will begin "skipping" across the dirt / gravel. leaving mini speed bumps clear down the road. rear blades are good at pulling rock that is off on the side of the road back onto the road. they can be used to help create ditches
rear blade would be an "angle cylinder" to change angle of the blade beyond the TNT for 3pt hitch.
make sure you get something large enough, so when you angle the blade it covers both rear tires, if your tractor will handle it that is. some times having shorter width can mean easier pulling power, vs larger size blade.

box blades, are good at filling pot holes and leveling things out. and smoothing things out. scraficers (teeth) on box blades can be used to help break up hard packed dirt. and then go back with box blade or something else to smooth things out.
box blade, some folks have made the scraficers (teeth) into hyd version, so they can lower / raise the teeth with a lever on tractor vs manual lower / raising each tooth.

land plane / grader blade, kinda lifts rock and dirt up, and sifts things so rock comes to the top and sends the dirt down to the bottom. and good at smoothing things out.
land plane / grader blade. use of short chain and pipe and then shorter top link to allow better float of the land plane / grader blade.

each one of the 3 can come in pretty handy, and would prefer all 3 if i had the choice.

pending on what you get and the road, you might want to add extra weight to all 3, though tend to see box blade and land plane / road grader get weight added to them more times than not here on TBN. so the blades on them cut deeper into the harder dirt / gravel.

www. everythingattachments .com (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) has video of all three i do believe along with some detail about each one, and can be a starter of looking up prices for cat 2 3pt hitch equipment.

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there can be different grades or classes some may list things under from economical (cheap) for personal use, and then commercial / industrial use.

though when ya get into cat 2 3pt hitch. i am not sure, if there really is an economical personal use. due to size and cost of tractors needed to pull category 2 3pt hitch equipment.

 

[hotchkiss]

Have you considered a grader for your 9 miles of road (that is a lot!!)? Landpride makes one. Not sure of the specific name but it is especially designed for grading gravel roads and does a better job than a blade according to those who own one.

GS25 Series Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

Ha ha. I actually have a Catapillar grader but am certain I need a rear blade for this bunch of roads.

 

[TheKubotaGuy]

RHINO 950...hands down. Have had great experience with them over the years.

 

[hotchkiss]

Thanks everyone you are a wealth of information! My farm is about 120 miles from my house and shop so I don't like to haul a dozer and excavator up to dress roads and clean ditches any more than I have to. It is just easier to have a blade or two up there to keep things up!

 

[Zebrafive]

Grand Rapids MI Craigslist has a Bush Hog 121-09 rear blade with all three cylinders for $1125. Good buy for someone. NOT MINE! I wish they had listed before I bought the same model with one cylinder for a lot more $$$$

 

[slowzuki]

I paid 2500$ for my lightly used 200 hp / 9 ft with hydraulic tilt, angle and offset. New I think it was going to be 4500$. It weighs 1708 lbs though just to warn you. They make much lighter and cheaper models too.

Link to pdf with all the photos
http://www.leonsmfg.com/files/articles/1_brochure_rearblade.pdf

What do they cost?

 

[schmism]

or try schmism - he's another HD blade runner.

I am but.....

9 miles of road!.....

thats not rear blade material thats road grader material..... find you one of these and have the wife drive the tractor. no flat tires, no hydraulics, and much better results than anything else you could pull behind the tractor.

seriously, forget the driveway scraper blades, totally inadequate for maintaing roads. you HAVE to have crown on dirt roads and driveway scraper blades can NOT crown, period! you have to get the water off the road if you hope to maintain anything decent.

if you HAD to have a rear blade, my vote is Landpride with gauge wheels (10' HD) but seriously, by the time you plunk down the cash for that, you could have a used MG for nearly the same price.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

seriously, forget the driveway scraper blades, totally inadequate for maintaing roads. you HAVE to have crown on dirt roads and driveway scraper blades can NOT crown, period! you have to get the water off the road if you hope to maintain anything decent.

Schmism, do you have or have you ever used a (driveway scraper blade) ? While they may not be the best implement to put a crown on a road, they for sure are very good at maintaining a road. When a driveway scraper blade is used, it does not cut off the crown that is on the road. I suppose that it would if that is what you were trying to do, but once the crown is there, there is no reason to not use a LPGB (land plane grader blade is what I call them).

The only time that I can think of where the crown of a road would get cut out is when the implement is more than 1/2 the width of the road and even then it is not a real problem until the implement is a lot wider than 1/2 the width of the road. I have been using my LPGB for over 6 years now and I haven't cut the crown off yet.

Anyone that has very much of a drive or road to maintain, I usually suggest that they have more than one implement to take care of that chore. That is why I have 4 different implements to do the job, each one is better than the other for an intended purpose.