Bending square u-bolts with shop press

[TimBuck2]

I am refurbishing an old Cox boat trailer and have been searching and searching for the correct size square u-bolts to fit various applications. I have decided it's impossible to find something you can live with, never mind finding a size you want.

Has anyone fabricated a "die" set up for their shop press that does a decent job of bending square u-bolts?

Seems like it should be pretty straightforward ...

Thanks,
Tim

 

[MountainBuck]

I wouldn't do that on a boat trailer. Too much liability. Same reason most welders won't weld anything on a hitch.

Too many variables like stress fractures, crystalline structure, work hardening, just to name a few.

Have you tried contacting a Cox dealer for the correct part?

 

[/pine]

Some marine supply houses have boat trailer parts...

 

[Peter 315]

What size? Most spring shops will make them up for you..

 

[bcp]

I haven't done this for axles, but other places I've replaced U-bolts with a heavy strap and two standard bolts. Probably stronger than DIY U-bolts.

Bruce

 

[/pine]

Most boat trailer u-bolts are galvanized after they are bent...

 

[dstig1]

For most any hardware, the answer is almost ALWAYS McMaster-Carr...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[ddbackhoe]

For most any hardware, the answer is almost ALWAYS McMaster-Carr...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

another good source

Square U Bolts - Galvanized Steel | The Nutty Company, Inc.

Square U Bolts - Galvanized Steel | The Nutty Company, Inc.

www.nutty.com

 

[Tinhack]

You'd be better off drilling flat steel stock and using bolts and nuts than trying to bend your own. As MB hints, bending All-Tread never ends well.

 

[jmc]

Could you just use an upper plate and a lower plate with two regular bolts?

 

[TimBuck2]

I plan to use stainless. I have been on McMaster - all the widths are in whole inches, my bolts are not. The Nutty co. been there. I forget if they are one of the folks that make custom sizes? I have been to a dozen websites. In any case, the custom places are just doing carbon steel, and not galvanized.

I am liking the idea of using "strip" plates and bolts.

Thanks, Tim

 

[TimBuck2]

You'd be better off drilling flat steel stock and using bolts and nuts than trying to bend your own. As MB hints, bending All-Tread never ends well.

By "All-tread" you mean threaded rod? I had planned on using stainless stock and tapping the threads needed.

 

[dstig1]

I plan to use stainless. I have been on McMaster - all the widths are in whole inches, my bolts are not. The Nutty co. been there. I forget if they are one of the folks that make custom sizes? I have been to a dozen websites. In any case, the custom places are just doing carbon steel, and not galvanized.

I am liking the idea of using "strip" plates and bolts.

Thanks, Tim

Have you looked for a metric equivalent? Sometime not finding the hardware in inches means it is metric...

 

[etpm]

The biggest problem with bending your own is cracking at the bend. Depending on the stainless alloy used and the source of the stainless and the radius of the bend you may find visible cracking. You may also see what doesn't appear to be cracking but instead just a slight change in the appearance of the surface finish of the metal after bending. And change in the appearance means the metal is cracking. If the surface just looks duller then sanding with maybe 400 grit sandpaper and then polishing with 600 or higher grit or even better polishing with tripoli buffing compound must be done to help prevent cracking down the road. Visible cracking must be removed completely. Heat can be used on SS to make bending easier and to help prevent cracking but any heat discoloration must be removed to prevent rusting, which will for sure happen. Oh, and I almost forgot, threading SS with a die is a real chore and I would avoid that if I could. Your best bet is to do as others have suggested, drill holes in a plate. The preceding advice that I just gave is from experience gained from my 40 plus years working as a metalworker and machinist and from seeing bent stuff fail from bending induced cracking more than once.
Eric

 

[jwmorris]

By "All-tread" you mean threaded rod? I had planned on using stainless stock and tapping the threads needed.

Making a U out of the stainless rod and threading a fastener to them?

Sounds a lot like a drawer pull and not something I would want to hold an axel on with.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H35DSLC/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&th=1

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

The local steel supplier/welding shop. And, real hardware stores like ACE, can order some things. And, as always search eBay, set to worldwide, and use metric sizing.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Locally, I would try the Steel, Ranch and Welding Supply shop, the Local ACE hardware, and the parts houses. NAPA has quite a bit of depth in their catalog. I live in a rural hub two or three-hours from big towns so teh locals have quite a bit of selection in stock, and can order most anything out of SLC, Boise, or Denver.

A quick search on Amazon turned up a large number in varying sizes. And eBay will find more than you want to look at, particularly if you set the location to worldwide.

 

[TimBuck2]

The biggest problem with bending your own is cracking at the bend. Depending on the stainless alloy used and the source of the stainless and the radius of the bend you may find visible cracking. You may also see what doesn't appear to be cracking but instead just a slight change in the appearance of the surface finish of the metal after bending. And change in the appearance means the metal is cracking. If the surface just looks duller then sanding with maybe 400 grit sandpaper and then polishing with 600 or higher grit or even better polishing with tripoli buffing compound must be done to help prevent cracking down the road. Visible cracking must be removed completely. Heat can be used on SS to make bending easier and to help prevent cracking but any heat discoloration must be removed to prevent rusting, which will for sure happen. Oh, and I almost forgot, threading SS with a die is a real chore and I would avoid that if I could. Your best bet is to do as others have suggested, drill holes in a plate. The preceding advice that I just gave is from experience gained from my 40 plus years working as a metalworker and machinist and from seeing bent stuff fail from bending induced cracking more than once.
Eric

Have not bent any stainless yet. I bought Chinese 304 8m ubolts that i need to have threads extended 3/4" closer to the bends. I did about a half inch last night just to try it because I was concerned it might be a problem. Threading the 304 was actually quite easy, and I have not added cutting oil yet.

 

[TimBuck2]

Have you looked for a metric equivalent? Sometime not finding the hardware in inches means it is metric...

I have. I found metric equivalents for two applications: holding the spring assembly to the frame and the axle to the springs. But I am not sure I am going to use them for those applications. M8 is very noticably thinner than 5/16, ditto m10 for 3/8. Then if I go up one bolt size, can't find equivalent ubolt diameter/width and lengh combos.

 

[etpm]

I have. I found metric equivalents for two applications: holding the spring assembly to the frame and the axle to the springs. But I am not sure I am going to use them for those applications. M8 is very noticably thinner than 5/16, ditto m10 for 3/8. Then if I go up one bolt size, can't find equivalent ubolt diameter/width and lengh combos.

FYI, 8mm is .316" and 5/16" is .312", 10mm is .394" and 3/8" is .375", rounded to 3 decimal places. So both 8mm and 10mm are thicker than the nearest fractional equivalent. If you are finding the opposite then I would change where I was buying the stuff. I was surprised that the 304 bolts you ran the die down threaded easily. But then I considered the fact that they were from China. Before I retired a couple years ago I had several customers who would not accept and metals from Asia. I had to provide certs showing country of origin. I didn't blame them either. I had stopped buying and metals that came from China or India. Too often the metals did not meet spec.
Eric