Have an old montgomery ward power kraft garden tractor and the deck i have for it is off a wheelhorse it a 38 inch deck and iv gone to tractor supply co about 5 time for a belt and each time its been the wrong size and ibjust whent and got 1/2" x 98" and its just allittle two big so i asked the guy i got the tractor from what the belt size was and he sed to just ask for a belt that fits a 38 inch deck is this true and do you think a thiner belt would work better then the 1/2" belt with
Belt size
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LD1
Epic Contributor
The belt width has to be matched to the pulleys.
When you say the 1/2 x 98 belt is just a little too big, do you mean too wide?? or too long??? When the proper size belt is seated down in the pulley, there should be about an 1/8" or so of the top of the belt sticking up out of the pulley when new. AS the belt wears, it will ride farther down in the pulley and is a good indicator of how worn the belt is.
Also note that there are 2 ways to measure standard belts. There is the letter designation, A, B, C, etc. And then there is the other numbering system. Like 3L, 4L, 5L, etc.
A=1/2, B=5/8, etc
the 3L, 4L, 5L are how many eights of an inch wide the belt is.
So a 1/2" belt like you have is either a 4L or an A.
As to the lenght, The number after the A is how many inches the belt is long ON THE INSIDE.
The #'s after the 4L is how many THENTHS of an inch long the belt is ON THE OUTSIDE.
On a 1/2" belt, there is 2" of difference. SO....IF your belt is a 98" OUTSIDE length belt, that would be a 4L980, or a A96.
If you need longer or shorter, you can ask for an A95(4L970) or an A94(4L960), etc. Same if you need longer.
If you do need narrower but the same lenght, ask for an AA or 3L of whatever lenght.
Sorry for the information overload
But I find it MUCH easier dealing with counter people when ordering by size and not by application
When you say the 1/2 x 98 belt is just a little too big, do you mean too wide?? or too long??? When the proper size belt is seated down in the pulley, there should be about an 1/8" or so of the top of the belt sticking up out of the pulley when new. AS the belt wears, it will ride farther down in the pulley and is a good indicator of how worn the belt is.
Also note that there are 2 ways to measure standard belts. There is the letter designation, A, B, C, etc. And then there is the other numbering system. Like 3L, 4L, 5L, etc.
A=1/2, B=5/8, etc
the 3L, 4L, 5L are how many eights of an inch wide the belt is.
So a 1/2" belt like you have is either a 4L or an A.
As to the lenght, The number after the A is how many inches the belt is long ON THE INSIDE.
The #'s after the 4L is how many THENTHS of an inch long the belt is ON THE OUTSIDE.
On a 1/2" belt, there is 2" of difference. SO....IF your belt is a 98" OUTSIDE length belt, that would be a 4L980, or a A96.
If you need longer or shorter, you can ask for an A95(4L970) or an A94(4L960), etc. Same if you need longer.
If you do need narrower but the same lenght, ask for an AA or 3L of whatever lenght.
Sorry for the information overload
But I find it MUCH easier dealing with counter people when ordering by size and not by application
LD1
Epic Contributor
It looks to me like the belt you have now is too THIN. As well as too long. If in the picture, you are "just" taking the slop out but not yet moving the tensioner, depending on how much travel the tensioner has, I'd say the belt is every bit of 4-5" TOO long. Maybe more. AS well as being too thin.
Carl_NH
Elite Member
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- Coastal NH
- Tractor
- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
I agree with LD1 on the width and length I would try a 5/8" x 87-89" with the tensioner it should be good. What I do if in a pickle is take the old belt to a auto parts store and meaure their in stock belts against it and get one close to what you need.
It used to be the auto parts stores carried more belts in stock - not anymore with internet and inventory controls they dont have the longer belts in stock anymore. So I go to the box stores and see their inventory (they are closer than the dealer) and get one that will work.
Good luck.
Carl
It used to be the auto parts stores carried more belts in stock - not anymore with internet and inventory controls they dont have the longer belts in stock anymore. So I go to the box stores and see their inventory (they are closer than the dealer) and get one that will work.
Good luck.
Carl
LD1
Epic Contributor
What size did it end up being??
Carl_NH
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Messages
- 4,228
- Location
- Coastal NH
- Tractor
- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
The size that fit.. Yes it would be nice to know especially after the detailed info you posted on belt sizes and nomeclature - is that info just resident in your noggin?
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yea. Years of working in maintenance departments and ya start to remember some things like that. Or at least I do.
Another example of remembering such things is with sealmaster bearings. (I wish all bearing makers used similar numbers). But seal-masters mounted bearings, the # is how many 1/16's of an inch the bearing is. IE: SF-16, the 16 is how many 1/16ths it is. 16/16=1" bearing. A SF-24......24/16 = 1-1/2" bearing.
I like when numbers of things makes sense. I am a math and numbers type of guy. I remember the stuff easily. What I dont like are meaning or seemingly meaningless numbers. Like oil seals:confused2: or some tractor model numbers, or metric roller bearings. What exactally does the numbers in the 6000 series bearings mean????? Who knows? Simple things like this could just make life soooo much easier.
Another example of remembering such things is with sealmaster bearings. (I wish all bearing makers used similar numbers). But seal-masters mounted bearings, the # is how many 1/16's of an inch the bearing is. IE: SF-16, the 16 is how many 1/16ths it is. 16/16=1" bearing. A SF-24......24/16 = 1-1/2" bearing.
I like when numbers of things makes sense. I am a math and numbers type of guy. I remember the stuff easily. What I dont like are meaning or seemingly meaningless numbers. Like oil seals:confused2: or some tractor model numbers, or metric roller bearings. What exactally does the numbers in the 6000 series bearings mean????? Who knows? Simple things like this could just make life soooo much easier.
Carl_NH
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Messages
- 4,228
- Location
- Coastal NH
- Tractor
- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
Yes I do understand that with regard to numbers - I have a good recollection for numbers telephone etc from a long time ago..
Also, did you know the Kubota numbering system for their loaders IE 421 (like on my B21) x2.2 (lbs per KG) equals the lift capacity? Check it out your 463 should be 1020Lbs and a 724 is 1592 lbs BUT the caveat is where they measure the lift - at the pins or the bucket.
For the older machines its at the bucket for the newer machines at the pins.
Oh well enough on numbers and measures - the metric system is so much easier if we would have adopted it years ago a MM is a MM and not 1/16" in increments you cant read on a wrench as you get older - can easily see a 11 or 15 mm.
Used to be I could look at a bolt and get the right wrench - today I am lucky to find the wrench in the size I am looking for in 5 minutes. Why is it when you need a 1/2 " wrench all you can find is a 12-13 MM or 7/16 or 9/16 - tools have a way of magically diappearing.
Also, did you know the Kubota numbering system for their loaders IE 421 (like on my B21) x2.2 (lbs per KG) equals the lift capacity? Check it out your 463 should be 1020Lbs and a 724 is 1592 lbs BUT the caveat is where they measure the lift - at the pins or the bucket.
For the older machines its at the bucket for the newer machines at the pins.
Oh well enough on numbers and measures - the metric system is so much easier if we would have adopted it years ago a MM is a MM and not 1/16" in increments you cant read on a wrench as you get older - can easily see a 11 or 15 mm.
Used to be I could look at a bolt and get the right wrench - today I am lucky to find the wrench in the size I am looking for in 5 minutes. Why is it when you need a 1/2 " wrench all you can find is a 12-13 MM or 7/16 or 9/16 - tools have a way of magically diappearing.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yep, I knew that about kubota. But actually, it is only the first two of that model followed by a zero. That last number, currently models usually a 3 or a 4, is the number in that series of loader.
Like my 463 for example. It ISNT 463kg, rather it is 460kg and it is the 3rd series of that loader.
The new ones changed to a 524. So 520kg (measured at a different point), but now the 4th series.
I perfer SAE measurments as opposed to meteric, just because that is what I am used to, but there is no doubt that metric is easier. Especially in terms of converting. Since everything is muntiples of 10, 100, 1000 etc. But I cant look at a metric bolt and tell you what size it is, but I can look at a 3/8-16, or 5/8-11, or a 3/4-10 and tell you what it is just by looking. I need the calipers and pitch guage for metric.
I can also look at something and guess relatively accurate in inches or feet what size something is. I cant with metric without some thought. (first guessing in inches/feet, and then doing a quick conversion in my head).
But where I really get lost and need an online calc. for conversion is some of the other types of measurments. Like pressure, and force, etc.
I dont think we will ever see ONE system. And I am fine with the two. But as I said, what I hate is when manufactures make something and the numbering means absolutly nothing.
