bbse
Platinum Member
WHAT WOULD BE THE RECOMMENDED BATTERY FOR A LK3054? CCA AND PHYSICAL SIZE?
battery
- Thread starter bbse
- Start date
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depratt_equip
Platinum Member
Kioti recommends an Interstate MT-34 or equivalent battery. The colder climate you live in choose a higher CCA battery. I think the Interstate they recommend is a 700 CCA battery. By no means do you have to put in Interstate brand. Measure the current battery you have and go to your local auto parts store and they will be able to help you. Let me know if you have any questions.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There is a core charge for your old battery so just bring it with you to where ever you go for a new one and they'll match it up for you. )</font>
You know, I've always had to bring in an old battery when purchasing as new one until recently. I bought a new starting battery and two house batteries for my motorhome from two different retailers, and neither of them wanted my old battery. When did this happen? They even acted as though they just didn't even want me to drop them there.
Sorry BBSE, I know DePratt has answered your question well, so I just wanted to throw this in as I didn't know I didn't need the core.
John
You know, I've always had to bring in an old battery when purchasing as new one until recently. I bought a new starting battery and two house batteries for my motorhome from two different retailers, and neither of them wanted my old battery. When did this happen? They even acted as though they just didn't even want me to drop them there.
Sorry BBSE, I know DePratt has answered your question well, so I just wanted to throw this in as I didn't know I didn't need the core.
John
OP
bbse
Platinum Member
Thanks guys,
I thought 700 to 750 cca would be good but I wasn't sure if a diesel might not require even more. I just bought this used and it runs good but it is hard to start. After heating up the glow plugs for about 15 seconds it will barely turn over. I may have to test the glow plugs also before i'm done but I will do that in a different post. I think I will start with a new battery. If I need parts I will contact depratt. I am sure I will need a few things. The tractor has only 510 hrs but it has some weathering wear. BTW, I need a retention nut for the hand throttle. I can tighten the one on it uo a little but it does not stay so I have to use the foot throttle. I could use two nuts jammed but I would prefer whatever is factory.
I thought 700 to 750 cca would be good but I wasn't sure if a diesel might not require even more. I just bought this used and it runs good but it is hard to start. After heating up the glow plugs for about 15 seconds it will barely turn over. I may have to test the glow plugs also before i'm done but I will do that in a different post. I think I will start with a new battery. If I need parts I will contact depratt. I am sure I will need a few things. The tractor has only 510 hrs but it has some weathering wear. BTW, I need a retention nut for the hand throttle. I can tighten the one on it uo a little but it does not stay so I have to use the foot throttle. I could use two nuts jammed but I would prefer whatever is factory.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( After heating up the glow plugs for about 15 seconds it will barely turn over. )</font>
The glow plugs won't make it hard to turn over, just hard to start in cold weather if they're not working.
Before you spend the money, test the battery with a volt meter. You should have just above 12V if it's fully charged, and around 14-14.5 running. if the battery is okay, you may have a compression problem.
As for the throttle, the parts are not expensive, and I think you have the right idea to go with the factory part. If the hour meter is correct, you should have many many more hours of great use. Keep us up to date.
John
The glow plugs won't make it hard to turn over, just hard to start in cold weather if they're not working.
Before you spend the money, test the battery with a volt meter. You should have just above 12V if it's fully charged, and around 14-14.5 running. if the battery is okay, you may have a compression problem.
As for the throttle, the parts are not expensive, and I think you have the right idea to go with the factory part. If the hour meter is correct, you should have many many more hours of great use. Keep us up to date.
John
depratt_equip
Platinum Member
John
You know my Interstate battery guy use to ALWAYS have to have a core when he dropped off batteries. Now he doesn't really seem to care much if I have any or not, which is really good for me because most of the batteries I use go in new tractors so I have no core. Im not sure why they don't want cores anymore though.
You know my Interstate battery guy use to ALWAYS have to have a core when he dropped off batteries. Now he doesn't really seem to care much if I have any or not, which is really good for me because most of the batteries I use go in new tractors so I have no core. Im not sure why they don't want cores anymore though.
DK35vince
Super Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Before you spend the money, test the battery with a volt meter. You should have just above 12V if it's fully charged )</font>
John,
I never had much luck checking for a bad battery with a volt meter . I have a lot better luck checking the battery under load (with a load tester).
I have seen a lot of batteries that show 12 volts, but as soon as they are put under load the voltage/amps drops way off.
Just my 2 cents..
John,
I never had much luck checking for a bad battery with a volt meter . I have a lot better luck checking the battery under load (with a load tester).
I have seen a lot of batteries that show 12 volts, but as soon as they are put under load the voltage/amps drops way off.
Just my 2 cents..
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have seen a lot of batteries that show 12 volts, but as soon as they are put under load the voltage/amps drops way off. )</font>
You make a good point Vince, but not just everyone has a load tester handy. I think most people have a voltmeter around. Maybe not. The battery should read greater than 12V if it's still good. I never expect one to be good if it's only at 12V.
John
You make a good point Vince, but not just everyone has a load tester handy. I think most people have a voltmeter around. Maybe not. The battery should read greater than 12V if it's still good. I never expect one to be good if it's only at 12V.
John
OP
bbse
Platinum Member
I have volt meters and clamp meters. I guess I could put the clamp meter on the main wire and crank the engine to see how many amps it is drawing. But wouldn't the amps be low if the battery is low? I started the tractor last night when I got home. Took three tries and I got a lot of smoke. A little white and mostly black. It would actually start to turn a little faster as it cranked but it was also firing a bit. So I think the cylinders firing was helping it turn as it cranked. I think I will take the battery to be tested and get a new one if needed. Hopefully that is all it needs because once it starts it runs great. BTW, someone told me a weak injector can cause this. How would the engine act if that was the case?
Ranashi
Bronze Member
You can check the battery with a volt meter but you need to do it while cranking. The cranking voltage shouldn't drop below 10.5 volts at all. A good battery normally will maintain between 10.5 and 12.8 volts during cranking. During charge it should should between 12.8 - 14.8 volts above that you could have problems with the charging system. Generally if the battery is dropping below 10.5 volts either the battery is bad or you might have too small of a battery for the application. The amp meter would be the best way to tell if you are able to maintain cranking amps while turning it over but isn't needed unless you are doing more load tests to further tell if the battery is bad or helping to figure out slow crank issues.
