Battery Hard Wire

WranglerX · Dec 6, 2022

This would be my option... Only issue may be finding plumbing ports on engine....

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PILOON · Dec 6, 2022

Got lucky!
A friend was scrapping an old school bus.
Under some rear seats was a small heater about 6'' x 6'' size.
I modified by installing a muffin fan.
That was some 10 years ago.
Same school bus donated widow glass for w/shield and rear.

Williy · Dec 6, 2022

Go electric heater?? Cost??
new alternator
new battery
min 12 ga wire
fuse box
etc.

Radiator fluid cost ??? you will need to add some
rubber hose
heater core
hose clamps

willy

sandman2234 · Dec 6, 2022

klw_pitt said:
Couldn’t get a better battery to help reduce the drainage worry or trickle charge?

Here is a simpler explanation...
The battery is just a storage device.
Say the battery has 1000 units of storage, and your heater uses 300. In about 3.3 measurements of time your battery will be dead. In even less time, it will be at a point where it won't start the tractor. Now, your alternator recharges the battery, but only at 60 units. So it will extend the time your storage battery will last, but not by very long since it is only replacing 20 percent of what the heater is using. So you need a bigger alternator, bigger battery and bigger wires to carry all the extra power. You might cheap-out and get away with existing wires, but smaller wires generate heat, which burns up wiring (and tractors)..
It is cheaper to go the coolant way, and better heat!
David from jax

rontaki · Dec 6, 2022

sandman2234 said:
Here is a simpler explanation...
The battery is just a storage device.
Say the battery has 1000 units of storage, and your heater uses 300. In about 3.3 measurements of time your battery will be dead. In even less time, it will be at a point where it won't start the tractor. Now, your alternator recharges the battery, but only at 60 units. So it will extend the time your storage battery will last, but not by very long since it is only replacing 20 percent of what the heater is using. So you need a bigger alternator, bigger battery and bigger wires to carry all the extra power. You might cheap-out and get away with existing wires, but smaller wires generate heat, which burns up wiring (and tractors)..
It is cheaper to go the coolant way, and better heat!
David from jax

To add to the great explanation above - pulling a lead-acid battery too low in voltage "wounds" it. It loses significant storage capacity whenever this happens, worse with lower voltage discharges.

Good info on Low Voltage Cut-off information

Fuddyduddy1952 · Dec 7, 2022

I can see merits and arguments for/against both. Here's why: A coolant heater temperature has to get up to operating temperature (180°F or so) to get heat. You have to plumb in heater hoses with a control valve and heating coil with blower fan (not that simple). Then route hoses out of the way and you have plumbing (hoses connect...where?), valve, and potential leaks.
Electric Best Buy site there's a 300 watt (25 amp) electric heater, adjustable fan speeds, comes with 25 ft. 12 gauge wire. All you do is run it to a 30A fuse right at battery. A hot wire and short ground wire...that's it. Instant heat for $31.
You say, yes but, you'll need larger battery +alternator...but not really. Think about people running extra lights+factory lights+ radio which probably adds up to 25 amps (it all depends on tractor). 300 watts isn't a whole lot of heat, but probably sufficient for a cab.
Me, I'd probably go electric. I'd place a $20 1300 watt 120vac electric heater in cab first with extension cord, running it for 5-10 minutes before use. Cab would be very warm before starting and 300 watt should maintain heat.

cqaigy2 · Dec 7, 2022

Fuddyduddy1952 said:
I can see merits and arguments for/against both. Here's why: A coolant heater temperature has to get up to operating temperature (180°F or so) to get heat. You have to plumb in heater hoses with a control valve and heating coil with blower fan (not that simple). Then route hoses out of the way and you have plumbing (hoses connect...where?), valve, and potential leaks.
Electric Best Buy site there's a 300 watt (25 amp) electric heater, adjustable fan speeds, comes with 25 ft. 12 gauge wire. All you do is run it to a 30A fuse right at battery. A hot wire and short ground wire...that's it. Instant heat for $31.
You say, yes but, you'll need larger battery +alternator...but not really. Think about people running extra lights+factory lights+ radio which probably adds up to 25 amps (it all depends on tractor). 300 watts isn't a whole lot of heat, but probably sufficient for a cab.
Me, I'd probably go electric. I'd place a $20 1300 watt 120vac electric heater in cab first with extension cord, running it for 5-10 minutes before use. Cab would be very warm before starting and 300 watt should maintain heat.

I was thinking the 120volt ceramic might be the way to go too. Warm up the cab with it before starting out.