Battery cable

/ Battery cable #2  
I have the 1538 and mine does not. A lot of folks have had issues with internal corrosion and subsequent poor connections.

A fusible link is easy to spot- it's a smaller more flexible wire with nice silicon insulation. Typically it's about 6-8" long.
 
/ Battery cable #3  
I noticed some corrosion on my battery clamps, cleaned them and added some of those red/green felt(?) washers to the battery posts. That seems to have controlled it.

I have been working on a little project which I plan to post on soon - Adding an inverter to the front of my 1533 TLB. I added a 2 gauge cable to the positive post, ran it up above the radiator screen to a 200 amp fuse. That was about the best place I could find to mount the fuse. Would have been better closer to the battery but Mahindra runs heavy 12-volt cables all over the place without fusing and so do car manufacturers. Well, at least the ones I am familiar with. So, I just tried to use common sense in routing, securing and protecting the cables.

I believe in fusing - PERIOD. Even added a circuit breaker in the power lead to the ignition switch on my old Ford truck after the switch separated and (D-word deleted by TBN) near caused a fire. If you've never seen a larger gauge wire shorted out in a vehicle, etc., you're doing just fine. Immediately after the short, you have a second to think, "What was that?" Then, the cable turns into a 'smoke rope' and it is panic time. The only time it happened to me, I was a 19 yr-old 'mechanic' and, fortunately, had some pliers near the battery. One good WIGGLE and SNATCH and it was over. Well, except for repairing the damage! Never happened since . . . Wonder why? And to think them dope-smokers get all excited over that stuff! Adrenalin is the ultimate "high" . . .
 

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