Base for Sawmill

[s219]

So I have a Woodland Mills HM122 on the way, should be here next week. It comes with leveling feet but will be down on the ground if I don't build a base. The only other mills I have used a lot were trailer-mounted and the deck was up near knee height. I am thinking I should build a base to elevate this new mill to minimize back strain.

Has anybody build a base for a mill before and care to offer suggestions or photos? I think my options are concrete blocks or pressure-treated timbers. Blocks are cheap, about $1.60 each for an 8x8x16. And concrete is still around $3.50-$4 a bag. Lumber, on the other hand -- I'd be paying $21 for an 8' 4x6 pressure-treated timber, which is a ripoff. I'd need about 10 of them, to the tune of $210. That is too darn expensive/ironic considering I bought the mill to avoid overpaying for lumber.

I could do the same thing with concrete block by building up piers. It would be slower to build. But I'd only need about $50 worth of blocks then another $20 for mortar etc.

Any other ideas?

thanks,
219

 

[/pine]

So I have a Woodland Mills HM122 on the way, should be here next week. It comes with leveling feet but will be down on the ground if I don't build a base. The only other mills I have used a lot were trailer-mounted and the deck was up near knee height. I am thinking I should build a base to elevate this new mill to minimize back strain.

Has anybody build a base for a mill before and care to offer suggestions or photos? I think my options are concrete blocks or pressure-treated timbers. Blocks are cheap, about $1.60 each for an 8x8x16. And concrete is still around $3.50-$4 a bag. Lumber, on the other hand -- I'd be paying $21 for an 8' 4x6 pressure-treated timber, which is a ripoff. I'd need about 10 of them, to the tune of $210. That is too darn expensive/ironic considering I bought the mill to avoid overpaying for lumber.

I could do the same thing with concrete block by building up piers. It would be slower to build. But I'd only need about $50 worth of blocks then another $20 for mortar etc.

Any other ideas?

thanks,
219

How much do used railroad ties run in your location ?

 

[Jstpssng]

Buy some rebar, a truckload of of sandy gravel, a few bags of Portland cement and pour a Concrete slab. Saw out some beams to rest the mill on. When you get done with that, you can start sawing out the walls and roof.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My sawmill has been sitting on concrete blocks with a 2x lumber between the mill and the block, for years and years! It's easy to do yearly leveling too, and it works just fine!

I have no problem milling out accurate lumber, or even veneer if I want...

SR

 

[Diggin It]

I could do the same thing with concrete block by building up piers. It would be slower to build. But I'd only need about $50 worth of blocks then another $20 for mortar etc.

Any other ideas?

If you have a place that makes blocks, ask them about seconds/rejects/culls. Firsts at retail stores run $1.75 or so, while culls at the block house run me a buck each. Stack them however you need to, then fill the voids with concrete. Add rebar if you wish. The result will be a solid concrete mass with no waiting for mortar to set before you can add the mill weight.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My friend bought some quality cement blocks from a box store about a month ago, a buck a piece...

I helped him fix his porch, and we needed some blocks, they were good quality too...

All the OP has to do is, sit them right on the ground, and put what ever lumber he wants over them, to get the height he wants...

SR

 

[Oldpath05]

Saw out your own beam to put the mill on, I recommend a building with floor....

 

[s219]

I'm in a chicken and egg situation, since I need a base to set the mill on for deck/track assembly before I can cut any wood. So I can't really cut beams for the base unless I whip out my Alaskan chainsaw beam jig, and that's a slow process. To be honest I am a little wary of using green wood for the mill base anyway. I don't want to have to level/true the deck every time I use the mill while the beams dry out over 6-8 months.

Here's what I am thinking -- piers that are 1-2 blocks high, with a beam or timber on the top. I think I can get away with 4 piers per side and let the timber support the other feet on the deck frame. The piers would spaced about 6'4" (on center).

I have to dig down about 8" to get through loam/roots in this soil, before hitting clay/sand. So I either need to set the first block down low into the ground and turn it flat side down (so it won't sink into the dirt), or pour concrete to make a little base there. Based on past experience, it's about an equal amount of work to level a block down in a hole or pour concrete into the hole.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

There's going to be a lot LESS leveling than you think! I check mine about once a year and it's sitting on blocks like I stated above.

Don't you have a trailer you can build it on??

I noticed new/future owners really over think this...

SR

 

[Rustyiron]

18 solid 8" block stood vertically at the single feet with the 2 sets of double stacked like you're drawing.
Mostly PHD work, at least for the 5 pair of single feet. Over dig the depth and backfill with stone dust to grade (a transit would be handy) and you would be "beam less" unless they have a prescribed installation using wood. That would at least get you running, you could add your own sawn timbers later. The solid 8's may have to be sourced from a real block supply yard.
Have fun, I'm a couple of months into finally having a bsm. It's very satisfying cutting and using your own lumber.:thumbsup: