SSdoxie
Elite Member
The 235 engine will fit right in without modifications or other required parts. Part number of the 235 HST is different but that is only because of design of internal directional check valve and high pressure relief valve.
Bad day,Lost an engine
- Thread starter MESSMAKER
- Start date
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SSdoxie
Elite Member
Same drivetrain (other than HST in 235) is used on all 3 models. Done for simplicity/commonality of parts for manufacturing.
OP
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I have been told that the hydrostat pressure relief is higher in the 235 and is non-adjustable in my machine. If I understand correctly, it would result in more power at the PTO but the same at the drive train. Does this sound correct?
I had understood that drive train was exactly the same in all three models.
I had understood that drive train was exactly the same in all three models.
OP
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I got a breakdown on cost.
break down and reassemble tractor $1000
weld and grind crank and resize rod $500
assemble engine $1000
rings and misc $400
Looking like the gap is widening between new and rebuilt. Of course the rebuild is best case and that never happens.
break down and reassemble tractor $1000
weld and grind crank and resize rod $500
assemble engine $1000
rings and misc $400
Looking like the gap is widening between new and rebuilt. Of course the rebuild is best case and that never happens.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
Load or power to the drive train varies depending on resistance to wheel rotation. At full maximum, stall point, the additional HP combined with slightly higher relief means more torque available to the wheels before stalling out.
What you should normally notice if going to the higher HP would be less engine lug on slight inclines and medium loads. Ability to use medium range little more frequently without dropping engine RPM. May even be able to drive down the road in Hi range once in awhile.
What you should normally notice if going to the higher HP would be less engine lug on slight inclines and medium loads. Ability to use medium range little more frequently without dropping engine RPM. May even be able to drive down the road in Hi range once in awhile.
the old grind
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
- Messages
- 4,412
- Location
- Mid-Michigan
- Tractor
- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
I went from 1.3L to 1.7L trading up otherwise 'same' HST NHs (23.5 vs 35 'rated' hp). I can only do more with the extra PTO power vs when using the FEL or lugging implements in any range. HP doesn't seem to matter when spinning all four wheels and I notice fuel consumption (a wee bit more) more than any power difference w/o a gear transmission. Pumps have output limits regardless of input power, so don't look for something that won't be there w/o adjusting relief pressure too.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I am concerned with the "weld and grind" crank......specifically the weld part. I'd want to make sure I was dealing with an experienced shop. Why not just grind the crank undersized and get appropriate bearings. Putting heat to the journal of a crank for welding.....thats a last ditch effort to save a expensive or obsolete crank IMO
OP
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Oversize bearings are not available, or at least not so far. It is my understanding that building the crank up frequently warps it a bit as well as changing the temper to some degree. My machinist assured me that the temper would cause no problems and his crank guy would be able to get the crank back in proper shape. He said he has used him for 20+ years. I believe he is located in Cincinnatti Ohio.
LD1
Epic Contributor
If you have confidence that the will stand behind their work, then go for it. But if there is even the slightest concern, I'd look seriously at either a new longblock as others suggested, or at least a new crank. Dont really want that looming in the back of your head everytime you operate the tractor, wondering if the rebuild is gonna hold together for the long haul.