??? BAD COMPRESSION ??? now what I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP

[yorT]

100% quick learning virgin mechanic on Ford 1710 with 2600hr.

I've owned & operated this machine for the last 5 years doing the regular maintenance on oil, filters, hydraulic changes, etc.on a small farm mainly doing landscaping after building.

I now have a new problem that I need assistance with.
The tractor has been getting harder to start now it just turns over and over with a “gray” toned exhaust. It sounds like it wants to, but it just never gets there. I have not replaced the starter which I have found as a recommendation while searching out solutions for the problem.

Here’s what I’ve done so far ….
• power washed engine with hot water to clean off
• replaced all fuses, replaced battery
• flushed fuel tank, replaced fuel filter & fuel overflow hoses from injectors
• replaced oil heat sensor, engine heat sensor and fan belt
• followed primming procedures to start the engine
Attempted to start but same problem presented itself

Next in line ….
• verified fuel was going through aluminum injector lines
• verified injectors were spraying fuel using a piece of paper for pattern
• replaced glow plugs; primed the fuel following procedures
Attempted to start but same problem presented itself.

Next in line ….
Ran a compression test through the glow plugs. Each test was done on a cold motor because it will not start. Each test was turning the starter/ motor over 15-20 seconds to reach max pressure 2x on each glow plug location with all glow plugs removed.
• turned off fuel
• removed aluminum fuel lines from the injectors but left them attached to injector pump
• removed all the glow plugs then ran test on each glow port
• #3- with throttle open and closed 350-375 compression
• #2- with throttle open and closed 275 compression
• #1- with throttle open and closed 250 compression


My question is what is my next step? I’m learning as I’m going and trying to do what I can to save on dollars and understand how the engine operates for future repairs. I’ve researched using videos and forums to get where I am now however, I don’t know exactly what the next step is. I’m guessing that it’s a valve, piston or cylinder and I’ll be starting a disassembly on the head to access the needed locations.

Any help, advice, assistance or guidance, videos, documents, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I do have the Mechanics Manual and the Owners Manual which I have used as well. If there is additional information need, photos, videos of the engine or anything else I would be more than happy to get what you need to help me.

Thanks again for your assistance …. Troy

 

[1Mech]

Try looking this over.

/www.ntractorclub.com › howtos › pdfs › Compression-Testing-Tutorial.pdf

I figured your good compression should be around 425 PSI using their formula and the mid range multiplier and the listed 23:1 compression ratio (18.5 x 23 )
don't know if that is right. You might give the dealer a call.

 

[yorT]

Try looking this over.

/www.ntractorclub.com › howtos › pdfs › Compression-Testing-Tutorial.pdf

I figured your good compression should be around 425 PSI using their formula and the mid range multiplier and the listed 23:1 compression ratio (18.5 x 23 )
don't know if that is right. You might give the dealer a call.

Thank you, I'll call the local New Holland / Ford dealer on Monday to see if they can assist in breaking things down and what they had to say.

 

[Roadworthy]

Just for something to do, have you checked the valve adjustment? Have you determined what kind of voltage you're getting at the glow plugs?

 

[chander]

I will check the compression specifications in my manuals later today and post that information.
As Roadworthy mentioned, what voltage is present at the glow plugs. Check when in preheat and starting positions.
Check the resistance of each glow plug.
Does the glow plug indicator glow when you are preheating ?
These 10 series tractors need operational preheating systems even when the engine is warm.

 

[chander]

I am not able to find any compression specs for the 1710. On the 20 series (1720-1920) they call for 475 psi + or - 50 psi.
These are different design motors, but this is an example.

The valve lash specs are .008 cold.

You could try cylinder leak down test to narrow things down.

 

[yorT]

Just for something to do, have you checked the valve adjustment? Have you determined what kind of voltage you're getting at the glow plugs?

I have not done either suggestion. I will check voltage of the glow plugs and will research how to check valve adjustment and that tools and materials are need prior to going forward with that test.

Thanks for the advice, I need it all

 

[yorT]

I am not able to find any compression specs for the 1710. On the 20 series (1720-1920) they call for 475 psi + or - 50 psi.
These are different design motors, but this is an example.

The valve lash specs are .008 cold.

You could try cylinder leak down test to narrow things down.

I will do the voltage tests on the GP and post those readings. I currently have new plugs in and still have the same results. Answer to glow plug indicator on control panel when starting; the indicator glows red hot within 5 seconds of starting the warming process before turning the engine over.

 

[yorT]

Just for something to do, have you checked the valve adjustment? Have you determined what kind of voltage you're getting at the glow plugs?

I'll check GP voltage and research how to do the valve adjustments and what tools and supplies are needed.
Thanks for the advice

 

[Topzide]

I'm leaning towards valve lash adjustment.
Tools need other than basic mechanics tools would be a feeler gauge which can be picked up at just about any parts store or a HF.
Once you have the specs for valve adjustment, pretty simple job.
Hope it's this and not anything more involved!