Backhoe Backhoe Mule

[Bob_Young]

Say you were putting together a TLB primarily for backhoe work on a farm....not going with a "serious construction" type TLB like a Kubota L39 or L48. You've settled on a 9' aftermarket hoe and now need something to hang it on. Maybe you are considering a new tractor or already have a couple of tractors in the barn that could take the hoe. What would determine the best choice?

Do you choose something sophisticated with HST or GST or something simple with straight gears? Do you tie up a honey of a tractor like a Kubota Grand L with lotsa bells and whistles or do you choose a basic tractor like an L4400? Do you choose a lightweight that can be ballasted, like a Kubota, or do you go with a heavier Mahindra? Would a small Ag-type utility be preferable to a large CUT? Do you get something with a strong hydraulic pump that can handle the hoe, or do you keep hoe hydraulics seperate from the hoe and go with a PTO pump and seperate reservoir?

Are there any tractor features that are definite "Must Haves"? Any characteristics that you would definitely stay away from? As an example, I think an independent PTO would be a Must Have if you were going the PTO pump route; clutching to get the pump going might be a problem.

As background, I know very little about backhoes, but am considering a Woods BH90-X for the L4300....it's what I have; but I'd like to make sure I'm not putting my foot in it.
Bob

 

[john_bud]

Wow, you sure have a lot of potentials there.

To answer your first set of questions, a backhoe tractor should have an FEL on the front or a weight bar. The FRONT of the tractor needs to be weighted with about the lift weight of the hoe (more is better). So, if the hoe can lift 1000#, you should have 1000# (or more) on the front of the tractor. This is done so the tractor does not bounce around when you are lifting and lowering the boom. Especially important when you are moving / lifting something with the boom and dipperstick fully extended.

The REAR of the tractor should also be weighted with about a weight equal to the digging power of the hoe. This is a bit more complex, as the weight of the tractor is on the wheels and it counts. So, if the tractor was put on a scale (just the rear) and it was 2000# and the hoe could dig with 3000# of force -- you would want to load the tires and add wheel weights to get up to 3000#. You would do this with the hoe on the tractor. More weight is better.

The transmission choice is up to the use. If you are digging ditches, any trans will do. If you are working around houses and cars, a transmission that allows precise positioning is useful.

Last, Your choice of Woods 90-x (with full sub-frame!!!) is a good match. You may need to fill the rear tires and add wheel weights to get full benefit. The 90x has 2900 pounds of digging force, so you will probably be fine with just filled tires. Although it will dig better with added wheel weights.

The PTO pump or tractor hydraulics question is a good one. The PTO option makes the hoe cost a bit more, but adding hydraulic outlets to the tractor is more money -- but they make the tractor more useful for some applications like top&tilt. Only you know if they would be good for you!

jb

 

[john_bud]

Oops! I forgot to mention that most home / ranch / hobby farm users of a backhoe find a thumb a good investment. Cost and usefulness track almost exactly. Fixed thumb is the cheapest, and useful but with some reservations. A mechanically activated thumb (the bucket curling action also moves the thumb) costs 2-3x more but is 2-3x more useful. A hydraulic thumb costs the most and is by far the most useful. Most folks with a hydraulic thumb wince at the initial cost, but would probably fight to the death if you were to take it away!

 

[dtd24]

I have a JD 8b on my JD 1070. Works wonderful. I do have the FEL, but my tires are not filled. Since I only have the one tractor, I take it off and re-install it as req'd. It was kinda hard the first time, but it gets easier. I agree on the sub frame model. I would want to put my 3 point through that stress.

 

[Bob_Young]

Thanks for the insight on the value of tractor weight, John. The L4300 has filled rears, but I wonder if it might still be a bit light. Will probably wait and see before adding wheel weights.

I had the hoe quoted with the Woods mechanical thumb. Thought that would be plenty. Dunno at this point, but expect the hydraulic thumb would be about $1000 to $1200 more....doable, certainly, but I'd have to know a bit more before jumping in that direction. I foresee a lot of reaching into ponds/small waterways/swampy areas and picking out logs, limbs, and trash to clean them up and improve drainage.

"Ah, spring must be in the air; the old man's fancy has turned to......backhoes?!"

I go through this backhoe thing every spring. Looks like it might happen this time.

Thanks to all for the inputs.
Bob

 

[john_bud]

I think you are right. The 4300 will be a touch light, but certainly doable. You will have to be smooth. If you could put the hoe on the 4000, it would be a better match, weight wise. And with the PTO pump, the lower operating speed of the 4000 to reach 540 PTO will be less grating. Then again, the 4300 will be more nimble....

(There, that should clear things up!)

On the thumb, just given the one task of picking up logs and limbs --> the premium $ will be long forgotten when you are gracefully picking up logs, branches, trash, rocks, dimes, etc. It will cost more, but will do more. Tape a steel rod to the back of your thumb (on your hand) so you can't bend the thumb. Now try and pick up stuff without using the thumb at all, then using the "limited mobility" thumb. Then with the thumb normal. You quickly see how a fully mobile thumb is a good thing!

jb