B7800HSD vs. B2910HSD

[neilwoodworker]

I'm trying to understand what the advantages of the B2910 are over the B7800. The hydraulic outlet is listed as a comparative difference in Kubota's literature. How is the rear outlet useful? Any other advice related to these two machines would also be helpful.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How is the rear outlet useful? )</font>

For under $100 you can purchase the aux hydraulic block that fits on the rear outlet which allows you to tap into the hydraulic system (you can't do anything with the rear outlet without the aux hydraulic block - the rear outlet is just covered by a plate.) You can then add one or more hydraulic valves to control remote hydraulic outlets. Useful for any hydraulically operated equipment like a hydraulic toplink or sidelink for your 3 point hitch, snowblower chute rotators, 3PH logsplitter, etc.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any other advice related to these two machines would also be helpful. )</font>

Here are the B2910 upgrade features:

Deluxe seat with adjustable parallel link suspension and arm rests.

Extendable lower link on the the 3PH arms. (Makes it easier to hook up equipment)

Ratching adjuster for the right side 3PH lower arm.

Cruise control lever to the right of the seat.

Telescopic/Tilt steering wheel.

As far as advice goes - buying a tractor is big investment, if you are planning to spend alot of time on or use it alot, keep the tractor a long time, etc. the additional features might be worth for you. They were for me. HTH.

 

[ronjhall]

B7800 does not have position control for the 3PH. It has quarter inching valve. Position control on the B2910 allows the 3PH arms to raised and then lowered back to the same position every time. The B7800 quarter inching requires the handle be held down to lower back to the same position.
Position control is desirable for Box Blading and other attachments that may need to be set back to the same position (height) for each pass.

 

[neilwoodworker]

That's strange because in Kubota's product literature they highlight the quarter-inching as a "performance-enhancing feature" of the 7800, but don't even mention position control except in the detailed specs of the 2910.

 

[obrith]

The quarter-inching valve is an improvement over the older style in that you can control how much you go up/down with the three point with pretty good accuracy (~1/4") in small ranges but I doubt you want to work the lever back and forth 80 times to go the exact 20" down to where it was if you pick up the implement (example only). It can be a big improvement, especially if you have a really good eye for leveling, but overall, I prefer the B2910's style with the moving stop.

 

[lively1]

First of all I want to preface that this forum is great. It really helped me make an informed decision on my tractor purchase. Next I want to state that I'm a new owner of a B2910HSD and love it thus far.

Now to the question - When I went to buy the tractor I was intrested in having a rear remote on the unit the dealer gave me the impression that a rear hydraulic remote could lead to a lot of problems. He said that I would have to put a hydraulic line between the in and out port for the remote when it is not in use. He also mentioned that if that line were to ever come off while the hydraulics were being used it could fry my pump. Is this true? Also you mentioned that you could just purchase a aux hydraulic block that fits onto the rear hydraulic outlet for $100 and then just add a hydraulic valve to control flow. My dealer said that I would have to fork out over $600 to add a rear remote - it doesn't sound like it would cost me that much from what you are saying. How much does a hydraulic valve cost and how difficult a task is it to add a rear remote? THanks for your help...

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( have to put a hydraulic line between the in and out port for the remote when it is not in use )</font>

Not if you buy an "open center" valve to start with.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you could just purchase a aux hydraulic block that fits onto the rear hydraulic outlet for $100 and then just add a hydraulic valve to control flow. My dealer said that I would have to fork out over $600 to add a rear remote )</font>

Yes, the auxilliary outlet block can be bought for less than $100, but then you need the open center valve, which can be had for different prices in either a single or two spool (or even more) version, at different costs, then you need the cylinder(s), hoses, and fittings, so $600 isn't bad. I spent about $800 when I did mine.

 

[MadReferee]

Your dealer sounds a little confused about the aux hydraulic block and its use and connections. It is simply a tap into the hydraulic line. You must have a valve or something to keep the flow going thru the circuit. The most common use is for a remote spool valve or for a backhoe which has its own valves. If a spool valve is not permanently connected to the block then you have to have a jumper hose. The aux hydraulic block is the same as the one on the front of your tractor that the loader connects to.

The aux hydraulic block for the B2410/B2710/B2910 actually costs $62 from your dealer or TractorSmart. The cost for 2 Kubota rear remote is about $862 from TractorSmart. Look HERE for pricing and descriptions.

You can add your own valve with multi spools for a lot less. Several of us have done it. Look HERE to see how I did it.

You can also purchase the aux hydraulic block and then purchase a complete or partial rear remote valve kit from CCM. This is a good option at a real good price. Look HERE for CCM specs and pricing.

Try doing a search for TNT. Most CUT users use the rear remotes for the TNT setup. You will find several good threads on how to do it yourself.

 

[ronjhall]

Here are 2 threads about Top and Tilt that include rear remotes.
Click Here
Click Here

Since these threads we have Tractor Smart and others that provide kits and part numbers.

 

[Henro]

I'm pertty sure at least in the beginning a mid PTO for the B7800 was linked to having the folding ROPS (option?) for some reason. Don't know if that changed or not, but I remember talking to my dealer about it.

And while it doesn't matter the B2910 also has some extra sheet metal in the back between the rear fenders...

 

[aloha]

The B7800 has a turnbuckle style "check chain" to control the spread of the 3PH lower links. The B2910 uses pinned stabilizers.

The turnbuckle check chain is a pain to use and weak. Through ordinary use I stripped one of my turnbuckles and the other was deformed and on the verge of stripping. I replaced the turnbuckle assembly with the B2910 parts. Easy to do and about $150 for all the parts from our good friends at Tractorsmart.com

What the B7800 uses for cruise control is primitive but serviceable.

If you get the B7800 without the mid-PTO you can upgrade to the folding ROPS for about $150

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( He also mentioned that if that line were to ever come off while the hydraulics were being used it could fry my pump. Is this true? )</font>

True for any hydraulic line - including the ones going to your FEL.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How much does a hydraulic valve cost )</font>

I have around $215 in my 3 spool Prince SV valve, not counting the fittings and quick-couplers (probably another $125 at least) Add in the hoses (3) and I'm over $375 total for sure - but still probably alot cheaper than buying it from the dealer after the original sale.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and how difficult a task is it to add a rear remote? )</font>

Not that tough.