B3350 or L3901 for mowing and snow?

[Rob 80]

My drive is 1/2 mile, all paved. I plow it with my fel, and cleanup with an angled blade on the 3 pt hitch. I mow about 7 acres with a 5 ft finish mower also.

Paved road makes all the differance with a plow. I just think with a front plow the snow builds up in front of it so the tractor digs into your gravel road.

 

[AxleHub]

Paved road makes all the differance with a plow. I just think with a front plow the snow builds up in front of it so the tractor digs into your gravel road.

I sense that what you are saying is bei gmissed by other responders. I saw 2 things that make a big difference:

1. You get drifting. That means alot more than many may interpret. A 6 inch snowfall can mean 3 foot drifts where I am. And a plow on its own just is not going to know where to put all that snow and how many asses you have to make to get rid of it.

2. You have driveway slopes and inclines. Again thats a hoy button because a plow can't push uphill easily . . . If at all.

Seems to me you're going to need a fel for moving snow out of the way . . . . And a snowblower to clear To the straight edge.

But the dilema is . . A snowblower on your tractor requires you to have the fel off .

What I am doing is keeping my fel on in the winter and going to change between bucket and fel mounted plow. Then I got a garden tractor and will but a snowblower on it. The cost of the garden tractor and snowblower was LESS than the cost of a snowblower for my tractor.

 

[jcbGM]

Rob, you never answered the question as to how much snow you get. What county are you in? Greenbrier? Pendleton? Or lowlands like Putnam and cabell? Makes a huge difference as to what you need. If you're in the eastern counties with large snowfalls get the L. You'll need the weight. Otherwise a B is probably fine for the rest of the state.

The plow on front really does make quick work of snow removal. It really isn't that bad with gravel. Our road is 1/4 mile long gravel. I plow it with a blade on an RTV. Much faster than a pull behind blade or blower. After winter really sets in and things freeze up, pushing gravel isn't an issue.

 

[Rob 80]

Rob, you never answered the question as to how much snow you get. What county are you in? Greenbrier? Pendleton? Or lowlands like Putnam and cabell? Makes a huge difference as to what you need. If you're in the eastern counties with large snowfalls get the L. You'll need the weight. Otherwise a B is probably fine for the rest of the state.

The plow on front really does make quick work of snow removal. It really isn't that bad with gravel. Our road is 1/4 mile long gravel. I plow it with a blade on an RTV. Much faster than a pull behind blade or blower. After winter really sets in and things freeze up, pushing gravel isn't an issue.

I've had drifts of 3ft but that does not happen very often. But like Axle says my road has a little hill and everytime someone plows my road they get stuck on it with a plow and make a mess of my road. Never had anyone with a blower. There's also a fence on the left side of the road and a little ditch for water to deal with and the right side is clear.

I plan to keep my little riding mower to mow around tress and the tight places a big mower can't get to because of the ROPs.

 

[Fallon]

I love my L3200 (same as the L3301 minus emissions stuff). I put a converted truck plow on the SSQA on my loader & it does great here near Denver. It plows 1' with 2' drifts easily. Beyond that probably requires a blower.

Front mount blower for any brand is going to be $6-8k.
A rear facing PTO blower is $1k used $ $2k new
A 3pt front facing blower is less common & adds $500 to the price... If you can drive over the drifts.
A SSQA plow is $1-2k (I built my used one for under $400)

Personally I'd plow if possible, its a lot faster. For the price of a front blower you could get a good plow & a 3pt blower. Plow until you hit a drift that stops you, turn around & blow it, then back to plowing. May or may not be feasible for your environment, but is the cheaper, faster & more flexible option.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I use my fel and a back blade. Push lift, dump with the fel, then blade the place smooth.


If I want to plow, I turn the blade around and drive backwards.

 

[varmint]

Keep in mind that 3 point hitches are made to pull stuff, not push, so you could potentially damage something if you aren't careful. Of course, I do the same thing, but always with a bit of caution. (rocks and stumps can be dangerous for your tractor's well-being)