Chains B3200 Chains......

[gltrap54]

Did the search, but a couple questions remain....... NE Kansas winters are very unpredictable......... Some mild while others seem they'll never end...... This will be the fourth winter for my tractor & thus far I've avoided using chains, but I'm thinking I should consider investing in chains for the rears (R4s, not loaded). I live in the foothills above the Kansas River & my 6A is very hilly and even with the weight of my FEL & rear blade, I sometimes have a trouble maneuvering in deep (10-12") snow..... I push a couple 300' paths across my lawn from the house to my chickens & shop, so I'd hate to have chains too aggressive.... I also push 750' of gravel driveway.......

1. Is TireChains.com my best source for chains?

2. Which style of chains should I consider?

3. Are front chains necessary?

4. Will I damage my concrete shop apron/shop floor? I've read some here on protecting concrete floors with OSB, etc, but what about the apron?

 

[camshawn]

I have just bought chains for my Mahindra 3616 with R4's. I went with an H pattern V-bar chain from Quality Chain. I too have about 700 feet of driveway and used to do across the field to the horse stalls, I only dug up a little grass if the ground was still soft with the small tractor. I have not noticed any damage to the shop floor from the chains but, it is a shop floor that on occasion gets used for welding on and even as an anvil. It looks like I may need to space my wheels out an inch to get a little more clearance at the lift arms for the chains.
Cam

 

[gltrap54]

Thanks Cam for your insightful input! I'll see what Quality Chain has to offer!


Trapper

 

[peterc38]

I had a B series (7610) w/ R4 tires that I ran for a couple winters without chains before eventually purchasing some. I went with the 2 link ladder chains from tirechains.com that were somewhere in the vicinity of 350 clams. I only put chains on the rears, I don't think you need them on the front. They made a world of difference in deeper snow and ice. They did not damage the concrete garage floor.

 

[RoyJackson]

I had a B series (7610) w/ R4 tires that I ran for a couple winters without chains before eventually purchasing some. I went with the 2 link ladder chains from tirechains.com that were somewhere in the vicinity of 350 clams. I only put chains on the rears, I don't think you need them on the front. They made a world of difference in deeper snow and ice. They did not damage the concrete garage floor.

I went with the 4-link ladder type, also from tirechains.com. These are quite a bit cheaper (and lighter) then the 2-link type...bumpier ride though, but only if you're on pavement. Like Peter, this type of chain does little damage to concrete. Asphalt...well, mostly a bit of scuffing when turning.
I suggest just going with the rears this year. I doubt you'll ever need the fronts...in fact, it's likely you won't even need 4 wheel drive as long as you develop some proficiency with the split brakes (if your tractor has split brakes).
One thing I do recommend is not putting off ordering chains until you need them. I did, and I had to wait quite a while for ones to fit my tires to come in (this was actually fortunate for me, as I traded my tractor for another with R-3 tires rather then R-4's).

If you do feel you need something to protect your garage floor, I suggest stall mats. Very heavy (and very smelly, initially!!) and I expect they'll last many years

 

[gltrap54]

Thanks fellas! With the winters in Maine & Vermont being what they are, I'd say both of you are qualified in the area of chains!

One more question..... Do I need any special tools to put rear chains on? I see some with straps.........

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks fellas! With the winters in Maine & Vermont being what they are, I'd say both of you are qualified in the area of chains!

One more question..... Do I need any special tools to put rear chains on? I see some with straps.........

Not really...maybe a 10-12 inch straight slot screwdriver to add a bit of leverage when I'm tightening the chains. Do use gloves to keep your hands clean.
I just lay 'em out behind the tractor and back over until I'm a bit past halfway over them, then drape the longer section over the tire...and lift the shorter segment up to connect the inside chain first, then pull the outer chain tight.
If you use bungees, use a couple or three on the inside and 3-5 on the outer side. You want the chains tight enough that when you lift the section atop the tire, you cannot slip your closed fist between the chain and tire.
If you buy the tensioners from tirechains.com (or other source), you might want the tool they sell to pull the chains and tensioner together. I did buy the tensioners and tool, but frankly, bungee cords work just as well and are easier to use.
One safety note...if you decide to use bungees (and I recommend you do), do wear goggles. Every now and then, a bungee under tension will slip or the end may come off. You've got two eyes...and you want to keep vision in both.

BTW...bit of an addition. My tires are R-3 turfs. When we moved to Vermont (from Pennsylvania), the chains were packed up, so we didn't use 'em last winter. Even with some pretty good snows (8-12 inches...and snow doesn't melt here (in Vermont) until Spring), I had no traction problems. Now, this was a flat level area and the drive was maybe 100-120 feet. I did use about 750 lbs of rear ballast (a 72" RFM).
So, if you have R-3 tires and your plowing area is pretty flat, you might want to try a season without chains.
That said, my chains are in the garage and if I need 'em, I know right where they are.

 

[peterc38]

If you buy the tensioners from tirechains.com (or other source), you might want the tool they sell to pull the chains and tensioner together. I did buy the tensioners and tool, but frankly, bungee cords work just as well and are easier to use.

I also bought the tensioner tool and found the bungee cords much easier to install and just as effective. I bought heavy duty style bungees.

 

[camshawn]

I will second the safety glasses for bungee cords. Our just retired blacksmith at work had one come apart while he was strapping the lawn chairs to his camper ladder last summer. Almost lost his eye. His wife had to drive the truck and camper a long way out of the bush and to hospital.
Cam

 

[AStanton]

Gltrap,
I view chains as money in the bank. I would tell you short term, buy chains just for the front from Tirechains.com. They sold me mine. This way if you are ever stuck, all you have to do is curl the bucket, raise the front wheels off the ground and put em on. If this doesn't cut it, then you could buy the rears.
We had a 30" snow storm here last year. First and only time so far I had to chain the fronts. I usually just run rear chains for winter.

 

[Teikas Dad]

Not chains, but a cheaper option. For $60 versus $300+ it may be something that interests you.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/193438-cutting-groving-siping-r-4-a.html

 

[Toolguy]

AStanton,
Do you have spacers on your wheels or do the chains fit without them?

 

[AStanton]

I needed spacers. I bought the 1.5 inch ones from the Kubota Dealer. They ended up giving me a bout 2" clearance for each rear wheel. Here are the before and after pics.

 

[dcosto]

Do these spacers put any additional stress on the axle?

 

[lakeside]

Do these spacers put any additional stress on the axle?

I have a B26 and I also live in the mountains where we get up to 12 ft of snow over a normal winter. I bought V chains from tirechains.com and swear by them. I used to install the chains by laying them on the ground and driving over them. I now drive over them but jack up the tractor and turn the rear wheels pulling up the chains. I use jack stands for safety and I always use safety glasses. After having the top of a truck battery blow in my face (I was wearing safety glasses !!!) I'm religious about uses eye protection. I only have chains on the rear wheels as I've heard 4wd with chains can damage the front axle.

 

[kco]

As already mentioned...it is likely best to try rear chains and determine later if you want front chains. I use modified DUO's on the rear and light (old truck chains?) 2-link ladders on the front. I could get by with rear-only chains(and did for the first year) but front chains help steering even when not using 4WD. I don't sense the front chains cause harmful stress while blowing snow, but some will disagree. I don't use 4WD for road travelling or easy sections but most of my actual clearing does require 4WD. I believe a key is to accelerate smoothly and avoid wheel slippage as much as practical.

V-bars will demand more care than regular chains to avoid damage to pavement or concrete. My fronts are v-bars but so worn that they don't damage the pavement. I imagine v-bars are much more effective on ice and hard-packed snow.

Chains greatly improve traction in ice and snow, especially with R4(as opposed to R1) tires.