B3030 ROPS light project

[bandit67]

In my case I simply pulled one of these lines back up to the front and used it to switch my relays that were directly connected to the battery. Made the install much easier than I was expecting.
j

In my initial attempt to make my wiring job easier, I thought about tapping that add-on worklight wire to run my relays. However, it would have been a lot more work on my tractor.

 

[garc]

QUESTION #1: Your factory light switches are very tidy. Can I get the Kubota part # from you?

Regarding your fender mount joystick, I had the same set up on my B3030 but wanted the stick to as the Brits say "fall easily to hand".
It may work for you as well: Untitled Document.
Some other mods are here: Untitled Document.
I am working on a new mod for spreading gravel, sand, etc. which I will post when finished.

QUESTION # 2: I have been looking at the Land Pride RB2572 for my B3030 as well and would appreciate any hindsight you can offer now that you have some experience with it on your B3030. i.e. How does it work in snow and how do you set it up for snow? Also, I see that it's 100 lbs. heavier than the RB1572. How does the extra weight affect it's performance?

Cheers, Gar

 

[garc]

The switch PN 36919-54222. Just be aware they run 30-35 dollars.

Missed this on my first quick read. Cheers, Gar

 

[bandit67]

Regarding the RB2572, I haven't yet moved more than 6" of snow with it. It is rated as too big for our machines, but I wanted the 17" high moldboard as opposed to the 14" moldboard on the 1572 because of snow removal duties. I also like the extra weight back there.

The majority of my use for it will be snow removal, so I figured that the extra beef would be fine as long as I wasn't doing too much dirt work. I have however, put more dirtworking time on the blade than snow clearing time, and haven't yet had an issue with the 3030 being able to handle it for dirt work.

One thing to keep in mind is that you will have to set the 3pt hitch up a little higher so that the blade frame is parallel to the ground to minimize or avoid constant adjustments when angling the blade to either side. Because of the extra 3" of blade height, the frame sits up higher than the 1572, so the lower links need to be higher up when the blade is on the ground. It also impacts ground clearance when raised, but I've got it set now at about 9" of clearance when raised, and with the frame parallel to the ground so that I can swing the blade angle to either side. To do that, I put the top link in the bottom hole which is supposed to be for the Landpride Quick Hitch setup.

The 2572 is much beefier than the 1572, and should be a little better suited to welding more steel so that I can add a hydraulic angling piston at some point. I don't necessarily think that the 1572 would be all that bad, but I don't like when you're moving snow and it falls over the top of the blade so you have to go back and make another pass to get the drive/road completely clean.

I've seen your link to your relocated joystick, but the location I have mine at now seems to be comfortable enough that I don't have plans to move it again. I think if I were to move it a little closer in, it would end up in my way more often than not.

 

[garc]

I occurs to me that this discussion should be on a new thread and so it is:
B3030 Rear Blade (& B2630)

 

[Scruffy1]

subscribing

 

[rglaser]

.

I have a suggestion, if you have no overhead clearance issues.

If you reverse the position of the 1" sq tube (put it above the ROPS), you would have less hardware to hit your head against. Just the smooth curve of the u-bolts. The lights would be ~3" higher but that can be a good thing (again, if no clearance issues).

.

I have a modification of this suggestion. Mount the bracket as Danno suggests but mount the lights in the pendant orientation (hanging below the bracket). This gives more protection for lights (no longer sticking up above rops) as well as only smooth edges where you may bump them with your head. What do you think?

-Rob