B2782B Snow Blower Shear Pins

[TimP]

Does anyone know if there are more than 2 different shear pins for my B2782B snow blower?

I only see two.... part #70060-01337 and 70060-01074.

Thanks !

 

[sandyc]

Believe you’re correct. There are two on the auger and one for the impeller. On mine I keep a handful of the bolts for the augers in a cup holder as well as two wrenches and a nail used as a drift to knock out the remains of a bolt in the auger shaft.

 

[von-mil]

Correct. Two of #70060-01337 and one #70060-01074.

 

[TimP]

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize there were TWO on the singer. I just ordered 6 of each to keep with Winter coming. I should have ordered more of the pins for the auger. Which pin is more likely to break in your experience?

 

[Dave M7040]

On some Kubota worm gear style front mounted blowers there is a history of problems.

At one time, the supplied shear bolts had two grooves cut in them to provide a weak area to fail.
Replace them with an ordinary bolt and a broken worm gear box resulted.

A change was made to how the fan shear bolt would work. Study the photos and notice the black flange which is the improved design. New units have the flange pained orange but the black ones were for customers having problems.

Dave M7040

 

[sandyc]

The auger bolts are are more prone to breaking because of ice,rocks, and etc. Make sure that you place the auger in the proper alignment before pinning it. There should be a decal showing the proper position, if not it’s in the manual. I have found that you break far fewer shear bolts running at 2000 rpms. The heavier the snow the slower I go but still keeping the rpms up.

 

[sandyc]

On some Kubota worm gear style front mounted blowers there is a history of problems.

At one time, the supplied shear bolts had two grooves cut in them to provide a weak area to fail.
Replace them with an ordinary bolt and a broken worm gear box resulted.

A change was made to how the fan shear bolt would work. Study the photos and notice the black flange which is the improved design. New units have the flange pained orange but the black ones were for customers having problems.

Dave M7040

Dave
I feel your pain after looking at that gear box....OUCH!

 

[radios1]

the problem with shear pins is if snow gets on the tube of the auger, and melts, then freezes between the auger tube and the shaft, goodbye gearbox. that interface needs to be fully greased to keep the water/ice out!..

 

[number two]

I received 10 of each shear bolt when my blower was new.
They came in a New Holland bag,dealer sells both and RAD makes the blowers for both(change the color).
I always thought it odd that the 1/4" bolt for the fan was grade 5,and Kubota called for a grade 8 instead.
After about 10 seasons,it was time to restock on shear bolts.
I quizzed the parts man,and it turned out they offer it both ways,a grade 5 and/or grade 8.
Since I really haven't had that many breakages,I elected to stay with the grade 5.
They break cleanly,and why subject the blower to any unnecessary stress.

Good Luck!

 

[TimP]

I received 10 of each shear bolt when my blower was new.
They came in a New Holland bag,dealer sells both and RAD makes the blowers for both(change the color).
I always thought it odd that the 1/4" bolt for the fan was grade 5,and Kubota called for a grade 8 instead.
After about 10 seasons,it was time to restock on shear bolts.
I quizzed the parts man,and it turned out they offer it both ways,a grade 5 and/or grade 8.
Since I really haven't had that many breakages,I elected to stay with the grade 5.
They break cleanly,and why subject the blower to any unnecessary stress.

Good Luck!

Did the Grade 5 & Grade 8 bolts have different part numbers?

Thanks

 

[number two]

They had different part numbers,but were not the usual 10 digit Kubota numbers.almost like an in house number.

How did you ever make out with your exhaust issues?

 

[TimP]

They had different part numbers,but were not the usual 10 digit Kubota numbers.almost like an in house number.

How did you ever make out with your exhaust issues?

Thanks for the info.

I went ahead and ordered a dozen of each of the shear bolts based on parts numbers on the parts breakdown.

Now all I need is some snow. I hope we get more than last season. We didn't get anything near what I needed to use the blower.

I have not been able to pursue the dang diesel odor in the cab.

I just cut the grass a couple of days ago and the diesel smell was pretty strong/oppresive. Once again, it permeated my clothing.

I have tried closing the air vent, opening the air vent, looking for fuel leaks, but that's it so far.

I have not tried pulling the top off yet due to the amount of work that requires.

On a good note... I DID get my LD work lights installed ! :.)

But ya... I gotta fix the odor problem.

 

[nbryan]

Thanks for the info.

I went ahead and ordered a dozen of each of the shear bolts based on parts numbers on the parts breakdown.

Now all I need is some snow. I hope we get more than last season. We didn't get anything near what I needed to use the blower.

I have not been able to pursue the dang diesel odor in the cab.

I just cut the grass a couple of days ago and the diesel smell was pretty strong/oppresive. Once again, it permeated my clothing.

I have tried closing the air vent, opening the air vent, looking for fuel leaks, but that's it so far.

I have not tried pulling the top off yet due to the amount of work that requires.

On a good note... I DID get my LD work lights installed ! :.)

But ya... I gotta fix the odor problem.

Is the diesel smell an exhaust smell or fresh fuel smell? I have no cab but my exhaust tail pipe took a ding, cracked it at the lower mount, and I only noticed it after getting alot of exhaust stink wafting towards the cab, which wasn't there before. When I had the tail pipe crack welded I took the whole pipe off at the muffler to do the weld better, and saw (barely) that the tail pipe had loosened (crack barely visible) where it joins the muffler. Fixed that too. But the muffler joint crack was not visible when muffler mounted to engine manifold.
Look carefully, a small exhaust crack can send fumes back to the cab making a very noticeable difference.

 

[nbryan]

I've broken 10-15 auger shear bolts for the one impeller shear bolt I snapped - that one was a rogue wood block that made it past the augers and jammed the impeller. Most of the auger shears are from our driveway (and one of my neighbor's) and parking area as we have pit run gravel regularly offering up 2-3" + stones to jam it. All bolts are Kubota supplied parts.
This year I'm taking the box scraper to the gravel and burying and smoothing over and compacting the gravel before freezup, and lowering the blower skid shoes at the beginning of snow season until the ice layer at surface solidifies, then can run it at fully lowered position.

 

[TimP]

Is the diesel smell an exhaust smell or fresh fuel smell? I have no cab but my exhaust tail pipe took a ding, cracked it at the lower mount, and I only noticed it after getting alot of exhaust stink wafting towards the cab, which wasn't there before. When I had the tail pipe crack welded I took the whole pipe off at the muffler to do the weld better, and saw (barely) that the tail pipe had loosened (crack barely visible) where it joins the muffler. Fixed that too. But the muffler joint crack was not visible when muffler mounted to engine manifold.
Look carefully, a small exhaust crack can send fumes back to the cab making a very noticeable difference.

It's a fume odor, not so much raw diesel.

Thanks for the info on the hidden exhaust crack. I'll do an inspections all along the exhaust system that I can see, or get to.

When I send the tractor for annual service, I'll have the dealer look for possible causes.

I just read another post about a person with a 2650, who had posted pictures of a break/crack of the pipe right at the muffler.

It was pretty large, but then again, unless you are looking for it, it can go unnoticed other than the odor.

 

[nbryan]

It's a fume odor, not so much raw diesel.

Thanks for the info on the hidden exhaust crack. I'll do an inspections all along the exhaust system that I can see, or get to.

When I send the tractor for annual service, I'll have the dealer look for possible causes.

I just read another post about a person with a 2650, who had posted pictures of a break/crack of the pipe right at the muffler.

It was pretty large, but then again, unless you are looking for it, it can go unnoticed other than the odor.

Was that other post mine? I did post about it with pics earlier this year.

 

[TimP]

Was that other post mine? I did post about it with pics earlier this year.

YEP ! Sorry..... I just had a "duh" moment........

 

[number two]

Tim,a quick check for an exhaust leak would be to cover up the exhaust pipe outlet briefly with a shop towel(rag)with the ehgine running.
You'll hear a leak right away,or if no leak,it'll build pressure against your shop towel.

Good Luck!

 

[TimP]

number two,

That sounds like a quick and easy way to check for leaks.

I will definitely do this as soon as I get a chance.

I will remove the engine side covers at the same time to help me hear any leaks.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Regards.

 

[nbryan]

Also when checking for leaks I could feel little exhaust "gusts" from the cracks simply by putting my hand (carefully) close to the area with potential leaks. These are pretty loud engines, sometimes easier to feel the leak than hear them.