B2710 updates or recalls
- Thread starter Von
- Start date
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Von, I've not been notified of any. There is one message on here (and I've forgotten who posted it) by one of the guys who had a power steering problem and said his dealer did the conversion to add the second hydraulic spin on filter (and I think in the process you eliminate the right side strainer).
Bird
Bird
Bird,
Thats good to hear. I used the tractor for about 2 hrs tonight, finished cutting the grass. I still am amazed at how well it turns and the power it has. I put the loader back on for the first time, talk about easy! I'v got the 60" bucket and it seems huge compared to the 50" on my B8200. I think I might weld two hooks right at the tops on the sides. They should fit nicely there. Also I am going to make a tie down plate to go on the front where the weights would go. This is where I will hook up the chains when I trailer the tractor. I'll take some photos when I get it done.
Von
Thats good to hear. I used the tractor for about 2 hrs tonight, finished cutting the grass. I still am amazed at how well it turns and the power it has. I put the loader back on for the first time, talk about easy! I'v got the 60" bucket and it seems huge compared to the 50" on my B8200. I think I might weld two hooks right at the tops on the sides. They should fit nicely there. Also I am going to make a tie down plate to go on the front where the weights would go. This is where I will hook up the chains when I trailer the tractor. I'll take some photos when I get it done.
Von
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Von:
Glad to hear that you are enjoying your tractor./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I will add a couple of notes that may help. I stopped by my dealer last week. They had a 2710 in the shop for repairs. It was the owner's sister's tractor. The transmission input shaft and bearing had gone bad. They have 2 teenage sons/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif that like to cut their five acres of grass in high trans range. Running the tractor at 2000 RPM's. This puts a high load on this input shaft and bearing. Always follow the recommended rpm for cutting grass. My owner's manual says to run mower at PTO speed (2900 RPM's) Use Mid or Low for the trans speed.
A great tractor./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Even better if you have the model with a filter on either side of trans. This adds an oil drain line to the front trans bearing. I have attached a scan of the new line. It hooks to 010 adapter.
Ron H
Glad to hear that you are enjoying your tractor./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I will add a couple of notes that may help. I stopped by my dealer last week. They had a 2710 in the shop for repairs. It was the owner's sister's tractor. The transmission input shaft and bearing had gone bad. They have 2 teenage sons/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif that like to cut their five acres of grass in high trans range. Running the tractor at 2000 RPM's. This puts a high load on this input shaft and bearing. Always follow the recommended rpm for cutting grass. My owner's manual says to run mower at PTO speed (2900 RPM's) Use Mid or Low for the trans speed.
A great tractor./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Even better if you have the model with a filter on either side of trans. This adds an oil drain line to the front trans bearing. I have attached a scan of the new line. It hooks to 010 adapter.
Ron H
<font color=blue>Always follow the recommended rpm for cutting grass</font color=blue>.
This brings up a pretty good question. I'm about ready to start mowing with my new B2410, and the engine is still in the break-in (under 50 hr) range. The manual says something vague about not running the engine at full speed in the first 50 hours, so I've been keeping it at 1800-2200 RPM while using the loader, etc. I had planned on doing the same while mowing, but this sounds as if lugging the engine while mowing is not a good choice either. Maybe keep at around 2200 RPM for the sake of engine break-in, and mow in low-range at slow speeds for the sake of the transmission ???? Any thoughts?
This brings up a pretty good question. I'm about ready to start mowing with my new B2410, and the engine is still in the break-in (under 50 hr) range. The manual says something vague about not running the engine at full speed in the first 50 hours, so I've been keeping it at 1800-2200 RPM while using the loader, etc. I had planned on doing the same while mowing, but this sounds as if lugging the engine while mowing is not a good choice either. Maybe keep at around 2200 RPM for the sake of engine break-in, and mow in low-range at slow speeds for the sake of the transmission ???? Any thoughts?
GlueGuy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,654
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
Kind of leave it open to interpretation, don't they? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I am no expert on this, but I'll give you my opinion.
Aircraft engines have some similarities to tractor engines in that they both operate at (relatively) low RPM. That said, standard procedure with aircraft engines is to break them in at maximum operating RPM as long as they stay within nominal operating temperature.
The major difference between aircraft engines and tractor engines is that tractor engines are designed to operate at lower (still) RPM, and are optimized for a flat, broad torque curve.
Bottom line, is that you don't want to jeapordize your long-term torque-producing capability of your engine. So, after a few hours, I would operate at a compromised RPM as you suggest, maybe a "bit low" for true PTO speed, but a bit above the very low RPM that might seem appropriate. So, I would operate in the 2200-2400 RPM "range", and keep the HST in low range. That way, you're staying below maximum RPM, and you're not putting any undue stress on anything either.
The GlueGuy
Aircraft engines have some similarities to tractor engines in that they both operate at (relatively) low RPM. That said, standard procedure with aircraft engines is to break them in at maximum operating RPM as long as they stay within nominal operating temperature.
The major difference between aircraft engines and tractor engines is that tractor engines are designed to operate at lower (still) RPM, and are optimized for a flat, broad torque curve.
Bottom line, is that you don't want to jeapordize your long-term torque-producing capability of your engine. So, after a few hours, I would operate at a compromised RPM as you suggest, maybe a "bit low" for true PTO speed, but a bit above the very low RPM that might seem appropriate. So, I would operate in the 2200-2400 RPM "range", and keep the HST in low range. That way, you're staying below maximum RPM, and you're not putting any undue stress on anything either.
The GlueGuy
Bird
Rest in Peace
Wheeldog, I'm certainly on expert, and like you said, the manual says to not operate at "full speed" (and that's only a couple hundred RPM above PTO speed), but when I use a PTO powered implement, I run PTO speed.
Bird
Bird
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
Von, If you were to put your clevis hook in the center of the your bucket it would be less likely to twist your loader arms if something didn't go exactly as planned.
Good Luck JT
Good Luck JT
Bird, Glueguy
Thanks for the advice. I ran my tiller for the first time today - kept the engine speed at or just below PTO-rated speed. Everything went fine, except for the occasional rock - some big enough to make the tiller hop a little to the side but the engine speed never seemed to dip at all.
- Rob
Thanks for the advice. I ran my tiller for the first time today - kept the engine speed at or just below PTO-rated speed. Everything went fine, except for the occasional rock - some big enough to make the tiller hop a little to the side but the engine speed never seemed to dip at all.
- Rob
reslaire
New member
I am curious where it says in the B2710 manuals that the mid PTO has to run at 2900 rpm. According to the manuals supplied with my tractor, my mid PTO runs at a speed of 2537 rpm with a tractor speed of 2600 rpm. No where can I find anything that says I HAVE to run at that speed.
Nor can I find anything that says I shouldn't cut crass using the hi range.
Bob.
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by reslaire on 05/03/01 02:01 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
Nor can I find anything that says I shouldn't cut crass using the hi range.
Bob.
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by reslaire on 05/03/01 02:01 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Bob
Your right about the correct RPM. I was out of town when I responded to your post. Tried to remember the correct speed from memory./w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif I don't look at the actual speed, but the PTO speed line on the tachometer. The recommendation for proper RPM's is in the <font color=orange>Kubota</font color=orange> Mower manual. Ground speed is controlled by terrain, desired finish and loading of the mower. The tractor that I was referring to was being run at 2000 RPM's and high gear to cut the lawn. If it had been run at PTO speed there would not have been a need for running in high range. On my 2910 the ground speed in mid range is over 5 MPH. You can use high range. I have found that it is difficult to control ground speed and get a smooth cut in this range./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
Your right about the correct RPM. I was out of town when I responded to your post. Tried to remember the correct speed from memory./w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif I don't look at the actual speed, but the PTO speed line on the tachometer. The recommendation for proper RPM's is in the <font color=orange>Kubota</font color=orange> Mower manual. Ground speed is controlled by terrain, desired finish and loading of the mower. The tractor that I was referring to was being run at 2000 RPM's and high gear to cut the lawn. If it had been run at PTO speed there would not have been a need for running in high range. On my 2910 the ground speed in mid range is over 5 MPH. You can use high range. I have found that it is difficult to control ground speed and get a smooth cut in this range./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
DaveM
Silver Member
Hi Rob- Good question and one I've thought about too. I used my finish mower for the first time last weekend and I ran the engine at aprx. 2400 rpm. and used the mid HSD range. I felt no lugging at all and have used the same speed and range when using the rotary cutter, though I did switch to low range occasionally when cutting extra heavy stuff and going down my steepest slopes. This seems like a reasonable compromise between what the manual says about the break-in period and recommended pto speeds. That said, I suspect it would also be fine to run at 2600 rpm! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Glad to hear you finally got to use your tiller in a non-ballast capacity /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. You know, I debated a lot about the tiller size I should get and last indicted I was looking for a 5' model. I changed my mind AGAIN and went for a 50" off-setable Bush Hog RTS50. If I get it next week, I first hope to prepare a small garden and get some veggies planted. Then I'll start making some flower beds... all over the place!
Dave
Glad to hear you finally got to use your tiller in a non-ballast capacity /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. You know, I debated a lot about the tiller size I should get and last indicted I was looking for a 5' model. I changed my mind AGAIN and went for a 50" off-setable Bush Hog RTS50. If I get it next week, I first hope to prepare a small garden and get some veggies planted. Then I'll start making some flower beds... all over the place!
Dave
Hi Dave,
Thanks - I'm glad I got to use my tiller too. We added to some flower beds that we have along the fence, and put in a fairly small vegetable garden. I wasn't sure how turning lawn into garden would work, but the tiller and tractor worked like champs. I did one pass at about 2/3 of the full depth setting, then picked off the rocks (there were 1 or 2, I guess/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif) and some of the sod chunks that were lying on top. I then dropped it to full depth and did a second pass - I was really pleased with how it came out.
I would think that the 50" tiller would work fine for you, depending on what size your garden and beds are. I don't recall what tires you run, but I'm sure you would need to offset with your 2710. I have my tiller offset to cover my track (tractor width with turf tires is about 55")
Take it easy.
- Rob
Thanks - I'm glad I got to use my tiller too. We added to some flower beds that we have along the fence, and put in a fairly small vegetable garden. I wasn't sure how turning lawn into garden would work, but the tiller and tractor worked like champs. I did one pass at about 2/3 of the full depth setting, then picked off the rocks (there were 1 or 2, I guess/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif) and some of the sod chunks that were lying on top. I then dropped it to full depth and did a second pass - I was really pleased with how it came out.
I would think that the 50" tiller would work fine for you, depending on what size your garden and beds are. I don't recall what tires you run, but I'm sure you would need to offset with your 2710. I have my tiller offset to cover my track (tractor width with turf tires is about 55")
Take it easy.
- Rob
DaveM
Silver Member
Thanks for the update, Rob. Sounds like you're impressed when, for the first time, you see the work your tractor and implements can do. I sure am! Again, this past weekend I was totally amazed at how much and how heavy the stuff my tractor/rotary cutter can handle. The next big test will be with the tiller. I'm a bit nervous about it though due to our large rock population. Large in number AND size. Everything from pea gravel to frisbee size rocks and larger, I fear! I suspect the slip clutch will come into play. Maybe quite often!
With R4 tires I'm about 55" wide too. That will increase 1-2" once the wheel spacers come in and are installed. I should still be able to offset more than enough to get beyond the right tire. If I can get 6-8" beyond I'd think that would make tilling close to fences easier.
Dave
With R4 tires I'm about 55" wide too. That will increase 1-2" once the wheel spacers come in and are installed. I should still be able to offset more than enough to get beyond the right tire. If I can get 6-8" beyond I'd think that would make tilling close to fences easier.
Dave
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