Price Check B2630 TLB--Worth It?

[My Hoe]

Hi all,

First, my apologies.

a) This is a long post, but please stick with it, as the questions get shorter! LOL

b) Also, I feel bad, coming hat-in-hand as I do, with another question, when I haven't responded to the many members who answered my previous post about BX's vs B's, 2-3 weeks ago. I'm now out of town and don't have easy access to a computer, but the answers I got then have made it possible for me to even be as informed as I am, so again, I'm grateful for the help I've already received!

I WILL get back to the many helpful members who answered my previous questions, but I'm faced with a "To buy or not to buy" question right NOW, while I'm out of town, and I am eager for any help anyone cares to offer.

c) I plan to "double post" this on another Kubota-friendly forum, just so I can get as much info as possible, as I may "pull the trigger" tomorrow--I hope this doesn't offend anyone, or violate any forum rules.

Here's the deal:

I found a used equipment dealer who has a used Kuboto B2630 TLB. He says he "thinks it's a 2007 or 2008". It has less than 100 hours one it and looks GREAT. VERY clean. The price was $20,000., but I've got him down to $19,200. already. I sense that the price will drop no more than possibly to $18,500, but I was going to try for $18,000. and settle on $18,500., if possible.

It has turf tires, which I wanted.

The tractor's history is unknown, beyond the fact that this used dealer bought if from another dealer. However, I was given the name and number of the dealer it came from, and encouraged to contact that dealer to learn what I could of the machine's history. IOW, the dealer I'm dealing with appears to have nothing to hide--obviously, the other dealer could be prepped to lie to me, but that's not the feeling I'm getting. I haven't had the chance to contact the previous dealer yet.

I operated this B2630 (but I haven't tried the hoe yet) and it is a BEAUTIFUL machine, and it ran beautifully. But I've never been on a Kubota before, other than the BX25 TLB he let me play with right before I jumped on the B2630. (I spent about 5-10 min. on each machine. I picked up a chunk of concrete with each one, and drove around with it in the bucket, (stopped first and) raised the bucket, etc.... He said the concrete weighed "500-600lbs." but IMO it was more like 250 lbs., but I could be wrong).

The backhoe on the B2630 is NOT a Kubota-it is a Woods BH80X "Groundbreaker". The dealer said it's actually a MORE desireble hoe than the Kubota hoe, and he even gave me a slick piece of color literature (by Woods, so of course it's going to be biased toward Woods) that compares Woods' hoes to the competetion, one of them being the Kubota. This is an 8' Woods hoe and he showed me in his Kubota materials that the B2630 will accept a 6', 7' or 8' hoe. This is an 8'-footer. So, so far, so good.

I don't have pictures yet, (and may not be able to upload them while out of town) but the machine is CLEAN. I saw no damage. The paint is worn on the bucket, but that's it. I will look more closely for leaks, etc..., but on a walk-around, it looks NEW, except for the bucket paint.

I do have some concerns:

1. "Surging When Starting Off in "H":
When starting in high range (it's a 3 speed HSD), if you are not gentle when pressing "forward" on the treadle peddle, the tractor will sort of "surge" a little, 2-3 times, with decreasing intensity, until the tractor picks up some speed. It is similar to driveline "lash" in a manual transmission truck. If you're gentle when moving off from a start in 3rd, it doesn't happen. Once it's done with it's 2-3 surges, it's normal. It does NOT do this in "L" or "M"--just in "H".

He says "that's normal," and that he has another B2630 I can try, to verify this. While it's "surging" you can hear the pitch of the HSD changing, in sync with the surges. This "surging" is fairly gentle, but because I could hear it and feel it, and only in "H" I wanted to know if this was normal or not? I will try his other B2630, to see if it is the same, but there is no hoe on the other B2630 so I don't know if the lack of weight of the hoe would make the difference. In other words, if the other tractor doesn't do this, could it be because that tractor isn't carrying the hoe? (I believe the other B2630 is carrying a loader).

Anyway, question #1 is, again: Can anyone confirm that the "surging" described above, when starting from a stop, in "H", is normal? Again, if I'm gentle on the peddle, it is much less or nonexistant, and does not do it in "L" or "M".



2. The Price IS Right? Or Not....?
The dealer told me "Two years ago, this was a $33,000. machine, as it sits (with LA403 loader and Woods BH80-X hoe.)" Does that sound right?

Is $19,000. (plus tax) a good price? A great price? Too much?

Less than $100. hours. Super clean. Super smooth (other than the "surging" in "H", as described.) I really have no idea if it's several thousand dollars high or low. He claims other dealers would be asking $21,999. for it, but that he sells a lot of machines and doesn't like to negotiate much, so he prices low.



3. Grinding When Switch Speed Ranges?
While stopped, when I tried to switch speed ranges, it "ground" briefly (like a bad shift on a manual trans?) but I nudged the treadle peddle slightly, and retried, and it shifted fine. I believe I've read about this "feature" before (on this site! :thumbsup, and that it's normal, but is that true? And it's possible I was rolling slightly, but I thought I was stopped when this happened.

I shifted speed ranges several times, and it only ground once.



4. What's Involved to Make the LA403 Have a "Quick Attach" Bucket?
My main use (near term) will be moving stuff I can't lift alone any longer. Therefore, I want real (solid steel) forks, on a frame (like a "headache rack" so the items don't fall back on the tractor?) that has the notches, so you can easily vary their width, just like on a real forklift. I would like the ability to "Quick Attach" either the bucket or forks.

This is a big deal for me, because I want to be able to switch quickly between bucket and forks. If switching between forks and bucket (without Quick Attach) is a 45 min. process instead of a 5 min. process (with Quick Attach) I know myself, and I'd probably just leave the tractor parked rather than start driving out pins, etc....

So that's why the cost of this conversion is important to me--if I can convert this loader to a Quick Attach system for the projected $1,000. in parts, plus labor (see below) I want it. If it costs significantly MORE than that to do the conversion, then I guess I'll wait for a tractor that already has Quick Attach....

The dealer told me Kubota does NOT make a Quick Attach setup for the B series, but I found a link which implies that there IS a "Quick Hitch" kit available from Kubota. Comments?

I understand the ears will have to be cut off of the back of the bucket, and a quick attach assembly welded on--I know a fabricator that can do this. The dealer told me that:

a) the aftermarket hardware for a "Quick Attach" system exists that will PIN onto my loader arms, without modfication--is this true? Anyone have a link?

b) the above kit would cost only $400.-500., plus labor. Is this true?

c) a used set of solid-steel forks, with adjustable fork-width frame and "headache rack" would cost $400.-500. and are readily available. Is this true?

d) He said a set of solid steel forks of 2,000lb. capacity would be plenty--agreed?

e) If there's anything I'm overlooking, in order to convert this B2630 LA403 loader to a "quick attach" set up, with a set of forks, I would appreciate your opinions and feedback. Per his figures, I'm looking at $1,000. in parts, plus fabrication labor--does this sound right?



5. Is the Woods BH80-X a "Plus" or a "Minus"?
I need a thumb, and this hoe has the bosses pre-welded on, with holes in them, to accept the Woods thumb. He said it's a simple bolt-on. He said the price was $710. for the Woods thumb. I don't know if that's dealer cost or list. It seemed high, and I told him I've seen Bro-tek thumbs for $3-400. He said this is a much better thumb. I like the fact that the thumb ears/mount is already welded on.

He said this Woods hoe lists for $11,016., and that his cost (had he bought it, which he did not--it came on the machine when he bought it, used) would be $8,800. He showed me these prices in his Woods materials.

The Woods literature says the BH80X is for tractors with "20-45 PTO HP." The B2630 has 26 HP but only "19.5 PTO HP." Obviously, this is minor difference, but I'm baffled as to why PTO HP even matters, as the backhoe is not driven off of a PTO, but the tractor's hydraulic pump. The Woods BH80X hoe requires 5-7 gpm, and the B2630 has DUAL hydraulic pumps (per the literature) and puts out 9.8gpm, so the gpm is fine.

The bucket is allegedly 16"--I didn't look closely or measure it. Is this bucket too wide for general use? My main use in the near future is moving huge firewood rounds, with the thumb I plan to buy for it, but I would be interested in digging for hire, in the future (odd jobs). The bucket lists for $642. so I wanted to make sure it wasn't too big so that I'd have to buy another one.

So...is this too much hoe for this machine? Too much bucket? Anything to watch out for on this Woods hoe?



6. What Years Was The B2630 Made? How to Confirm Year of Mfr.?
The dealer says this is a 2008 machine. Is there a way to confirm this? (I have the serial number--does Kubota provide a link to such info?). If not, what years was/is the B2630 made? Thanks.



7. Any Known Problem Areas to Check Out?
For instance, I plan to park the tractor on his new shop floor (if I can find a part that's not sloped for drainage) and try to make sure the loader arms are not "tweaked" and that the bucket sits square on the floor.

What other "tests" should I do, and what other things should I be scrutinizing?

Again, sorry for writing a novel. I've never spent this much money before, and I don't want to make a mistake. I only have tomorrow before I leave town, so I either buy it or hope it's still here when I come back, in a week or so.

Thank you ALL, in advance.

My Hoe

 

[Ductape]

I'll try to answer a few of your questions. I currently own a B3030 / Woods BH80X.

1) I believe what you are describing as 'surging', is perfectly normal. I almost never use high range..... only when traveling on the road from my house to a neighbors house. It is much too tall of a gear to use regularly, especially when adding a thousand pound backhoe to the tractor. I'm guessing that when starting from a dead stop , with all that added weight on the tractor, the trans wants to go into relief until it starts rolling. In the real world, you will rarely use high range.

2) I'd say 19 is very fair money for that tractor / backhoe with 100 hrs. 33 grand sounds like an exaggeration...... I'd say more in the range of 24 - 25 new? Price varies quite a bit by region...... new and used.

3) You MUST be at a complete stop to change ranges. Its normal if it is occaisionally difficult to shift from one range to another. Sometimes a slight touch to the hydrostat pedal will turn the trans enough for the range gears to 'mesh'. (Ever driven a manual trans car and had a hard time getting it to go into first gear at a dead stop, then let the clutch out enough to spin the trans, push the clutch in again and then it would slide right into first gear?) Trying to change ranges 'on the fly' will result in grinding gears.

4) I converted my LA403 to a SkidSteer style quick attach. I recommend you try ATI ( ATI Corporation - Tach-All(tm) Quick Attach ) for a SSQA. There are others that make them, but there are plenty of LA403s with an ATI tach-all and I have yet to hear anyone unhappy with one. Seems I recall other members here paying in the 7 to 8 hundred range for the ATI..... plus a hundred and some change for the bucket side QA plate brings the parts to convert at about a grand (plus labor). Any 'quick attach' style bucket for a B series from Kubota is a proprietary system, and does NOT accept common SSQA style buckets, forks,etc.

I bought a set of forks by BRADCO ........ see a pic of them in this thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/185648-bradco-forks.html Without looking at the manual, I think they are rated for about 2300lbs........ double what your loader will lift. Purchasing forks with a heavier rating will just make for heavier forks.... reducing the amount you can lift with them

Yes, the SSQA makes changing between front attachgments incredibly easy, and I HIGHLY recommend it. I'd say the absolute best single improvement I made to my B3030. Check out my conversion process here. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/140902-adapting-skidsteer-qa-my-kubota.html I bought my QA off of CraigsList, and it needed some modification to fit my LA403. I also converted my factory bucket myself, and made an attachment for lifting things and moving trailers.

5) In my opinion...... the Woods hoe is a plus. I feel the Woods BH70X is the best match for our tractors, but there is no problem having the 80 on there. If I were looking at the B2X20 series tractors, I'd opt for the Kubota backhoe due to its integrated design. On the 7800, 2630,3030 I'd opt for the Woods. My bucket is a 16, and I find it a good all around size. I do wish I had a narrower bucket also for trenching..... perhaps in the future I will. Mine came with the thumb, so I cannot comment on the price of the Woods thumb. It will definitely be a simple bolt-on installation. If you want to get really fancy, allegedly Woods has developed a hydraulic retro-fit for the thumb (though I have yet to see one in person). There are no common issues with the Woods hoes that I am aware of.

6) The 2630s started in 2005, and are still a current tractor. Generally, the model year is the year the tractor was originally sold by a Kubota dealer (not necessecarily the year it was manufactured). Perhaps the original selling dealer would tell you when it was sold new?

7) No suggestions to make that you haven't already thought of. I suppose you could pay a tractor mechanic, or Kubota dealer to inspect the tractor for you if you wanted to spend the money. If the tractor looks god, runs good, and has no major leaks, rattles or knocks...... I'd think you are good to go. Afterall......... a hundred hours is still brand new. With proper care, you should expect to get several thousand hours out of that tractor.

 

[medicshawn]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=188950&stc=1&d=1291005885
This is a Kubota Quick attach for a B7800. I thought it was 3-400 bucks. I think you could get a set of forks to match. Should be simple enough to fabricate something similar for your bucket and forks.

 

[bp fick]

The manual for my B2320 states the clutch must be used when switching ranges. Kinda figure that B2630 would state the same thing. If you forget to engage the clutch, you'd likely hear that light grinding sound. Dead stop, of course.

 

[My Hoe]

Wow!

Thank you SO MUCH, you guys!

I'm still out of town (I extended my stay by two days, to further check out/possibly purchase this machine) and I'm on a borrowed (and ailing) computer, so I can't be as specific as I'd like to, in my replies, due to the 'puter problems.

Having said that, I just want to thank you ALL, generally, for your thoughtful, patient, VERY helpful responses. Your insights have given me much more confidence, and things to check out. Not to mention "homework"! LOL

I will try to write more later, but I wanted to make at least brief responses to the members who're helping me.

You should also know that I have a friend who owns a Grand L, and is a professional crane operator, been in construction his whole life. He will hopefully be able to come with me Tue., for another "test drive," but he has already looked it over (non-running) and feels the hours are genuine. He stated the bucket corners are only VERY slightly worn, and that the paint is hardly off of the hoe bucket's teeth. He said "if the hours are higher than indicated, than it must have been pulling a float in a parade, because it sure wasn't worked."

So, between your collective input and my expert (hopefully) getting a hands-on test drive, I should be okay. What my friend has not done is researched the market for this smaller (to him) class tractor, so your (collective) input on pricing is particularly valuable. My expert's position (assuming it passes his "test drive") is already just two words:

"Buy it!" :trink40:
--------------------------------------------

Ductape:
1) Surging--Thank you for the explanation/reassurance on the "surging"--you said the same thing my expert did-that it's normal. He said "either throttle up or step less on the peddle (I was only at 1,500 when this happened.)

2) Pricing--And I REALLY appreciate your input on the price. Because my friend/Kubota expert is in the Grand L market, he is admittedly not up on B-series prices, so the input of you and others on this score is critical--thanks again! I wondered if the $33K figure wasn't an exaggeration, but he did prove to me (with Woods' materials) that the BH80-X lists for $11,016. Does anyone know what the B2630 with just an FEL goes for? From you, I do understand that prices vary significantly be region, but I just wondered if removing the BH's price would allow me to back out the price of the total package, just to see if the dealer is exaggerating, as you (and I!) suspect.

3) Grinding--apparently, there is a clucth I failed to notice! As I wrote to a member on another Kubota-friendly site (and am shamelessly recycling here, for you, due to my limited time availability on this borrowed computer):

WHOOOPS! I never even saw the clutch! :fing20: I LOVE manual tyrannies in trucks, and detest automatics, though I'm glad the g.f.'s car is a slush box when I'm injured (knock on wood three times--LOL). So I'm EXTRA chagrined not to have noticed it, esp. since my friend and Kubota expert confirms he saw the clutch. I will never make that mistake again--thanks for schooling me!

Two peddles I DID notice seemed to be split brakes, with a "flop-over tab" to lock them together. Does the B2630 have "cutting brakes" or whatever they were called on the old farm tractors? I always thought that was SO COOL and I really can't think of any other reason for the two brake peddles, but I didn't know they were still available in the age of HSD.

Clutch or no, I realize I needed to be at a complete stop, but it's possible that it was "creeping" slightly when I (ignorantly) shifted ranges w/o clutching. Thanks for your input on this issue.

4) Quick Attach--you are the second person to recommend ATI. I will call them in the day, and see if I can get pricing info, but I suspect they will tell me I need to contact an ATI dealer--is that how it works? I REALLY appreciate your pricing info on the ATI system, as the dealer fobbed it off to me as "no more than $400.-500." Another negotiating point for me!

Do you think the Bradco forks capacity of 2,300# is overkill for a B2630, given that you put them on your B3030? What loader does your B3030 have? This tractor is has an LA403. I don't mind going a little heavier than needed, as I forsee trying to "pop" rocks out of the ground with them, and other forms of "abuse."

I haven't had the time to check out your links on your QA conversion, but I plan to do so when I'm done with this response--thank you SO MUCH for your input on this issue, as I too feel forks (and the QA to make switching easy) will be a HUGE part of this tractor's utility to me and my g.f.

5) Woods Hoe--I'm REALLY glad to hear you have the SAME HOE! (Reminds me of a story I can't tell here....:laughing. But seriously, that is SUCH a reassurance. I thought the hoe looked real "boss," i.e., super beefy, and the brochure I mentioned did make some good points in it's favor (the curved boom, for example). But to know that you feel it is a "PLUS" means a lot, even given you honest opinion that a BH70-X would be a better fit. For picking firewood rounds (with a thumb) I'm extra jazzed about the extra 1 foot of reach, personally.

6) Model Year Issue--thanks for the input on this. I'm also jazzed to know the B2630 is still a current production model. I will definitely ask the original dealer if he can pinpoint a year of mfr.--good idea!

7) Tractor Mechanic--my friend who owns the Grand L, given his lifetime of heavy construction equipment/maintenance/repair/certified welder/fabricator is darn close to a professional tractor mechanic--he's certainly a professional hydraulic crane mechanic, by virtue of doing all of his own work. He too says the tractor is virtually "brand new," so you and he are on the same page. Thanks for providing further confirmation on that issue, and on my current course of analysis.

Your time and energy in answering so completely is especially appreciated.

BTW--I'm pretty fond of duct tape as well, so I like your handle. My g.f. got me a stocking stuffer once that had a hat that said "Duct Tape Professional" and had a roll of tape and other doo-dads, so I guess we've been tarred with the same brush--and I'm good with that! :laughing:

Thanks as well for your info on the thumb. A hydraulic thumb is beyond my budget, but it is a fun add-on to consider for the future. I'll be so happy to have a hoe with a mechanical thumb, however, that that should amuse me for at least the next decade--LOL.


medicshawn:
Thanks for the link and the pricing information. Your figures dovetail with the dealer's, but are less than the $1,000. figures I've seen for the ATI system. Your info definitely gives me a better feel for this market, though honestly, I think I'm leaning toward a "universal" system--but I've got a lot to learn about this issue so, again, your info is much appreciated.

bp fick:
Yes, it seems I missed the boat when it came to the clutch peddle. My friend and expert says he definitely saw one on the machine. I can't wait to see it for myself, so I can marvel at how I missed it. The dealer obviously didn't know it was there, but that's no excuse.

I appreciate your confirming the manual requires the use of the clutch when range switching. If it's there, and I buy this tractor, I'll be clutching for sure. The dealer has promised me an official Kubota manual, if I buy, so I will hopefully be able to "read all about it" myself. Thanks again.


----------------------------------------------------

I do have a couple of other questions, for anyone who cares to respond:

1. What is "position control" and how can I tell if this tractor has it? I believe it was optional? (My next stop is the Kubota website, so maybe I'll answer my own question? I dunno....)


2. What is the cost of a TPH? This tractor is missing it's THP, and I"d like to at least use the cost of one as a negotiating point, if I can't get the dealer to find me one.


3. Is installation of the THP just a matter of hand tools and instructions? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do much of my own automotive work, etc...

4. Is it possible to have the BH on with the TPH installed? OR, if it IS possible with a Kubota BH, is it perhaps impossible with the (slightly) larger Woods BH80-X hoe?


5. What is the (parts) cost of the 50 hour service? What is the labor cost? What is involved? Should I be concerned with labor costs, or is it just simple filter and fluids work that I can do myself? I ask because I may find that the OEM filters are still present, and I can use that as a negotiating point, possibly....


6. Does the Woods BH80-X hoe come off and on as easily as the Kubota version?


7. Does the LA403 FEL definitely come off easily? I only ask because I'd read that the FEL on the B21 does NOT come off--period. I thought that was weird and wanted to make sure that this B2630 allows for the easy removal of both FEL and hoe, if need be.


8. How can I verify that the proper Woods sub frame for the BH80-X is on this tractor? Will there be a Woods part number on the sub frame, and where/what would it be? I only ask because I noticed on the BX25 I drove, the "full sub frame" only ran up to about 3/4 the length of the tractor. I guess this would be normal, to allow for the articulation of the front axle? I failed to note how far up the sub frame came up on the B2630, but I will check it out.

9. Forks Length--I feel I want full, 48" long, solid steel forks, as I want to make/buy a "man basket" and I feel that for this and other uses (lifting the cap off of my truck, using a pallet, and some milk crates, inside the cap) I want full length forks. Yet I've see some forks that were only 42" long. What do most people choose for fork length, for a B-series?


10. DUMB QUESTION TIME: I've read about needing a sub frame for an FEL and needing one, as well, for a BH. Does that mean there are two sub frames on this B2630?

Thanks, again, to everyone who responded, and thanks in advance for any gluttons for punishment that wish to address my new questions. :hide:

ATB,

My Hoe

 

[nspec]

I'll comment on a few of your questions. I own a b2630 with the kubota bh75. I looked at the woods hoes - the 70 is a better fit, 80 is too large in my opinion. The smaller hoe drags the tractor all over the place if you're not wise with your actions, so I really cannot imagine what the bigger hoe would be needed for. Price seems a bit steep. New, the tractor and loader is in the 19-20 range and the kubota backhoe is around 7.

There is no clutch pedal on the tractor. Shifting ranges is a little on the rough side - you must be stopped, and you still need to finesse it in.

Three pt. hitch should come with the tractor - it is not an add on.

Three pt. hitch comes off when the backhoe is on.

I have a couple hundred pretty tough hours on the tractor. I grew up on a large farm with big equipment. I would definitely buy this tractor again if I had another go around. I love it. It is light, so you need to work smarter, not harder, but it is very nimble, very capable, and extremely versatile.

 

[MarkV]

The tractor you are looking at does not have draft control. To the best of my knowledge draft control is not available on any of the B series tractors. Draft control is generally only found on larger tractors that would be involved in ground engaging Ag work.

Do find out the cost of the tree point hitch parts. They will be more expensive than you expect. Any Kubota parts dealer will be able to look them up. My guess for the complete set up is $600 - $800. Installation is no problem and mostly done with pins and clips.

Installing the backhoe most likely requires removing the TPH arms and top link. It does on most all tractors and is no big deal.

The FEL is removable and is a simple job to remove and install if you place it on level solid ground. You are correct that the Kubota commercial TLB's, like the B21, L39, ect., do not have removable FELS.

Go with the 42" forks. The farther out from the pins on the FEL the less lift you have. The 42" forks will work with a full size pallet.

My one question is why is this almost new tractor on the market? With less than 100 hours it isn't even broken in. Was it a dealer demo and if so why no TPH parts?

Good luck,

MarkV

 

[Ductape]

My Hoe,

Good luck on your tractor shopping ! I know it can be an adventure.

Couple follow-ups:

The beauty of hydrostats is the built in pressure relief. Assuming it's functioning properly, it keeps you from breaking hard parts (like an axle) when driving into a pile of dirt with the bucket. From your description, starting the tractor from a dead stop at half throttle with the added weight of the hoe...... the tractor is trying to quickly go from zero to 15mph . I suspect the relief is kicking in a bit till the tractor is rolling. High range is not something you will ever use doing any real work, its more for traveling from place to place. The surging you experienced sounds perfectly normal.

I think you'd be hard pressed to find that hoe for sale slightly used in the 5 - 6 grand range. Add a little over a grand for a subframe / hydraulic kit, and you have a used B2630 (with only about 100 hrs !!) in the $12 - $13,000 range. A very decent price in my area. I just don't put alot of stock in the claim of the 'original purchase price' , since most of us won't pay full MSRP when we buy a new tractor. It may not be the bargain price of the century, but it sounds like a good price compared to what I see in my area.

You won't find a clutch pedal on the 2630. The PTOs engage hydraulically. That doesn't change the fact that you'll want to be stopped when changing ranges though. It does have split brakes. Most modern tractors still have them, and you can't live without them once you've learned to use 'em! On the Kubotas, it can be a little awkward with them being on the right with the hydro pedal. Try using the cruise control for forward motion and your right foot applying either brake.

What I like about ATI's SSQA is that is very simple and keeps the bucket back about as close to the original position as possible. With some (mine included), adding the QA pushes the bucket out a couple inches further away from the loader arms. The further out, in theory, the heavier the load......... and the further your lift capacity is used up.

For the record, the 3030 has the exact same LA403 loader as the 2630.The difference between the two tractors is the motor...... the 3030 has a 30hp four cylinder, and the 2630 has a 26hp three cylinder. If you end up with the 2630 you will really appreciate the 'deluxe' features of the 30 series. Hydrostatic steering, tilt wheel, extendable three point hitch arms (make SURE these are included with the tractor!!), cruise control, etc.

The Bradco forks were about as 'light' of a fork as I could find, and still have a forged fork tine. I found some lighter forks for sale, but they had a formed tine, generally made by welding two pieces of channel at a 90 degree angle. I think the Bradco forks are a good match for compact tractors. I bought mine locally during a promotion .... I think they were $525.00 ??? As good a deal as I found anywhere online. I think they listed around $700.

I really like Woods products, especially their backhoes. If you look at the B23 to 2920s, and the B3200 with the Kubota hoe, you'll see how tight Kubota tucked the hoe to the back of the tractor (with the BX series as well). So tight they were able to use a single operator's seat by making it rotate. This makes for a nice tight, nimble tractor /backhoe. That is not the case with the B7800, 2630, 3030...... eliminating the only 'advantage' i see in the Kubota hoe. Bota the Kubota and Woods hoes are well made, but on the 30 series tractors I give the nod to the Woods hoe. The reason I say the BH80X is bit big on the large B series, is that when going uphill with no weight in the front bucket, my front wheels can actually lift off of the ground. The BH70X, being a little lighter.... is just a better match IMO. No complaints about the extra foot of reach though thumbsup.

For the record, my screen name comes from my CB handle when I used to drive a truck for a living. It was given to me by a couple very close friends who never let me forget some of my mis-guided repairs using Ductape. One of them was the rusted collector on the headers of my old Chevy pickup. I actually tried to band-aid the exhaust, using some metal as splints and wrapped it all in many layers of Ductape. As you can imagine, my repair lasted all of 30 seconds till the heat turned my repair into a messy gob of goo (Hey, i was 19 !!). Hard to imagine my friends would still razz me for that today, huh ?? :laughing:

 

[nspec]

The B2630 DOES in fact have "position control" (as opposed to the ridiculous 1/4 inching valve). What it DOES NOT have, and most other small tractors do not either, is "draft control".

Position control lowers the 3 pt hitch to a desired position and holds it there. Wherever you put the lever, so goes the lift arms.

Draft control allows a ground engaging implement such as a plow to raise the 3 pt hitch as the draft forces increase so the tractor keeps moving forward and doesn't get stuck. When draft forces return to normal, the 3 pt. hitch returns to it's previous position.

 

[Ductape]

Uh...... PS, I just realized you had more questions I didn't answer, and nspec and MarkV ninja'd me while I was typing. I type really slow !

Not to spark an arguement with MarkV, but the 2630 does have position control versus the standard Bs having a 'quarter inching valve'. Use the search function here for PLENTY of reading on the subject. :confused2: Most will agree that position control is preferred by the majority.

Somehow I missed the fact that the TPH is missing. As suggested, price it..... no doubt it will be spendy. You will have to factor the added cost into the price negotiations somewhat. Again.... the TPH goes on in seconds with pins and clips.

I've never removed or installed a Kubota hoe, but the Woods comes off in a couple minutes, and goes back on in four or five minutes. The more often you do it, the faster it will be. Half the work is getting the tractor lined up to the backhoe well. Always best to be on solid, level ground if possible. The LA403 also comes off and on in about the same amount of time. Practice makes perfect ! I will add that it seems more critical to get the tractor on good level ground when removing the loader. It makes for a real challenge to get the loader back on if things aren't lining up. I'd say that if the backhoe is on the tractor, it has the proper subframe. The older Woods 6500 - 7500 series use the same subframe as the current BH70X - BH80X. It should bolt to the loader mounts, the rear axle housing, and MAY also bolt to the ROPS mount (mine does not, but the new ones do) Not something I'd worry over if the hoe is currently subframe mounted.

As MarkV stated, the B21 is a commercial grade machine, and has a beefier loader / subframe / backhoe. On the commercial machines, the loader is not removeable.

I agree with MarkV that a 42" fork is the best match. That's what mine are and as he stated, work fine with a 48" pallet. Keep in mind the lift capacity is only around a thousand pounds.

The LA403 does not have, nor need a subframe. It has a very beefy loader mount. The tractor will only have the subframe for the hoe.

Anything I missed?