B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights

   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights #1  

Dsherm234

New member
Joined
Oct 2, 2024
Messages
2
Tractor
2008 Kubota 2620
Similar situation as others. Working fine then go to restart and no crank. Pto not engaged, hst pedal switch cleaned and jiggled until it clicks with key on, 10a fuse blown, no headlamps. Replaced fuse only to blow again when attempting to crank with key.

I know I’m late to this party, but someone must know the cause of this frustration.
 
   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights #2  
You might have a chaffed wire somewhere. Poke around...
 
   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights #3  
Short in the wire that's grounding out. Need to trace, inspect the wires... crappy job to do but it's got to be done. I would start with looking for obvious wires where a mouse chewed through (unfortunately, under the dash...)
 
   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights #4  
Does it blow as soon as you start to crank? Maybe the starter is shot?
Or does it blow if you just turn the key on?
 
   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the input. As quickly as this came up it disappeared. Fiddled with it for 8 - 10 hrs over the past few days and today it started right up. I believe the fault is in the series of switches for occupant safety. I read the ball switches are poorly crimped and allows water inside the switch. I think there is 3 of them plus the hst switch. I don’t believe the quality of that switch is any better. I’ll make an isolated panel with switched bypasses and next time I’ll find out which one and autopsy the part. (Not my first rodeo) I’ll bet corrosion inside the switch.
Now why the fuse blew not so sure there because it works fine now.
 
   / B2620 2008 no start blown 10a fuse no headlights #6  
Thanks for the input. As quickly as this came up it disappeared. Fiddled with it for 8 - 10 hrs over the past few days and today it started right up. I believe the fault is in the series of switches for occupant safety. I read the ball switches are poorly crimped and allows water inside the switch. I think there is 3 of them plus the hst switch. I don’t believe the quality of that switch is any better. I’ll make an isolated panel with switched bypasses and next time I’ll find out which one and autopsy the part. (Not my first rodeo) I’ll bet corrosion inside the switch.
Now why the fuse blew not so sure there because it works fine now.
Now it works fine?

More evidence to suspect a chaffed wire.

Now you touch me, Now you don't!
 

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