B26 won稚 stick in and boom out at the same time...

[Smokeydog]

Don’t have the backhoe on the B26 to check but think the FEL down pressure will NOT pick up the front end when the outriggers are down. Maybe with the curl? Outside the specs. Often have to point the FEL bucket down to engage the cutting edge to help not being drugged back while digging with the backhoe. Roots and red clay are tough.
If digging a ditch and need to move, FEL up and outriggers up, reposition with backhoe as needed, FEL down the then outriggers is normal. I’ll take note next time.
Our B26 came with optional rubber pads on the outriggers. I find the extra ~3” and traction very helpful.

 

[freezerburn]

That was great and please do take note next time around. I can add a couple inches of hard rubber or tire tread to assist but with outriggers up it will pump that sucker up in the air in a hot minute.
Worst case scenario I will sequence, as you say, in the proper sequence. Be cool, 'freezer

 

[freezerburn]

Man same crap. My Kubota b26 work shop manual doesn稚 have as much detail as smokeydog notes from his. Mine just says dump the oil and replace filter quickly. Can someone post up a more detailed hydraulic change and air purge etc etc from their book? This has to be something simple/stupid..
Be cool, fb

 

[rScotty]

I don't have a B26, but might someday. If so, I'm learning a lot and some of it also applies to the M59.

On workshop manuals. I assume both Freezerburn and Smokey Dog are working out of the Kubota Workshop manual. Why would they be different? I haven't run across any differences in M59 manuals. But that doesn't mean the aren't there. It sounds like the M59 is more different from the B26 than I would have thought. For example, all the hydraulics will work at the same time and either the BH or FEL will pick up the whole machine easily.

Since on FreezerBurn's machine the stick and boom not working at the same time only happens with the outrigger cylinders down then I can only think of two possibilites. Both easy to check.
Probably the easiest and the thing to check first is if the slope of the tractor in BH mode with the outriggers down is causing the oil in the hydraulic sump to fall below the fill level. The dip stick should tell that.

While you have the outriggers down, block up the back of the tractor for purging the air from the outriggers. Block it up soyou can take all the load off the outriggers. It's possible that their cylinders have air in them.

The goal would be to loosen the hose fitting to the cylinder to let air escape without spewing pressurized oil all around.

So with the tractor blocked up, outriggers down & cylinders extended there is no load on the outriggers at all. Now you can loosen the hose connection to the butt end of the cylinder and see if air hisses out. Do the opposite when the outriggers are up, but chain them so they cannot fall by gravity.
luck,
rScotty

BTW, our garden hoses were plugged with ice two mornings ago.

 

[freezerburn]

Good point rscotty I値l let the riggers down over night and check the fluid again next morning.. it appears full according to the stick I guess. I did rough sand one side of the dipstick..

 

[freezerburn]

FYI on this machine air is purged by turning the steering wheel left and right..

 

[the old grind]

Are we routinely checking oil level with all cylinders positioned per the WSM? It's guesswork when we're not. IIRC my Terramite's manual wants all of them collapsed to check fluid level. The tank should have the capacity to extend them all w/o emptying the tank and sucking air at the bottom. Too much fluid may seep from a vent when heat of working causes it to expand.

Size/volume of tank and/or whether the stick enters at a 'wider' or 'narrower' part of it can mean a different amount of fluid lost or added for the amount it shows between min-max markings when 'dipping' it.

Adding a BH to a 3PH CUT/SCUT often wonders me if the base hydraulic system is typically able to handle the greater volume needed to account for seven extra cyls. W/o the addition the tank would seem to plentiful in capacity, but are there models with a history of to maintain a proper level if/when it's not so generous for the accessory?

I hope this is useful 'food for thought' more than confusing.

 

[rScotty]

FYI on this machine air is purged by turning the steering wheel left and right..

Yes, doing that will purge air that is at and below the level of the hydrostatic steering motor, and of course that is the only purging that is necessary from a Kubota company safety and legal perspective.

BTW, does the B26 have a separate steering hydraulic system like the larger TLBs do? If so, that method has even less of a chance of working to purge the rest of the hydraulic system.

It may be that working the steering will move a bit of extra fluid that is little higher than the steering motor so it can drag some air along with it = although I wouldn't bet on it. We don't know that your problem with stick and boom motion is due to air in the cylinders, but we do know that you have to purge air from above. The steering motor won't help purge air unless it was the highest thing in the system. And if that was true, it wouldn't be steering safely.

 

[Smokeydog]

After hydraulic oil/filter change the manual says to operate at low load and turn the steering side to side to bleed the system.

Had a slight oil leak on one side of oil cooler in front of radiator. Two new O-rings fixed that. Anywhere oil can leak, air can enter.

Was leaking some oil from rear fill plug and dipstick area when hot from mowing. Oil being aerated from air being sucked in. Replaced the split rubber elbow on the suction line fixed that.

I would follow the owners manual service recommendations. Not sure how our WSM would be different. I did pay $100 for the OEM paper copy.

Another post talks using the backhoe locks when not using, storage or transport to prevent unnecessary wear on valves.

Don’t drive/ drag logs attached to the backhoe. A friend damaged his B26 backhoe doing that.

 

[rScotty]

Are we routinely checking oil level with all cylinders positioned per the WSM? It's guesswork when we're not. IIRC my Terramite's manual wants all of them collapsed to check fluid level. The tank should have the capacity to extend them all w/o emptying the tank and sucking air at the bottom. Too much fluid may seep from a vent when heat of working causes it to expand.

Size/volume of tank and/or whether the stick enters at a 'wider' or 'narrower' part of it can mean a different amount of fluid lost or added for the amount it shows between min-max markings when 'dipping' it.

Adding a BH to a 3PH CUT/SCUT often wonders me if the base hydraulic system is typically able to handle the greater volume needed to account for seven extra cyls. W/o the addition the tank would seem to plentiful in capacity, but are there models with a history of to maintain a proper level if/when it's not so generous for the accessory?

I hope this is useful 'food for thought' more than confusing.

Good point.
Until fairly recently most of the 3pt backhoes had their own PTO-driven hydraulic pumps and reservoirs - as does most 3pt farm machinery that uses more than a couple of small hydraulic cylinders.