Aux QA/locking hose damaged

[ldabe]

I went out to move some trailers and pallets around yesterday and ran into a problem I noticed for the first time when I started the PT to do these chores.

The design on my 03' 422 at the cylinder for the locking is seriously flawed! (Will try to get some pics for future.)

Just yesterday as I went to do the chores above, I noticed what looked like a slice in the hose that connects up by the cylinder that locks the QA. Upon a closer look, there was, and it was from everytime the lock was openned or closed the connection for the right hose, rubbed across the hose on the left side.

I never noticed that before. So, I was hoping it would not spring a leak until I was done with what I had to do. It didn't (praise the Lord), but it did as soon as I went to put it away into the garage and operated the locking cylinder to release the bucket.

So, I think all I have to do is disconnect the hose from one end (back toward the PT, I think you guys call that a "lovejoy" [?] connection) and then with a couple of wrenches, disconnect the other end from the locking cylinder.

Does that sound correct?
When re-connecting, do I have to purge air or anything like that (if so, how)?
Where do I find someone to fix this hose?

Thanks in advance, as usual, you fellows are a wealth of information ;~)

 

[KentT]

You are correct that you can disconnect one end of the hose from the quick-connect, and then simply use wrenches to remove the other end from the cylinder.

However, think "operating room" cleanliness when dealing with open hydraulics circuits. Make sure to clean around the cylinder/hose connection thoroughly before you try to unbolt it. You don't want anything -- even a speck of dirt -- falling down into the valve once you're removed the hose. Have a plastic bag (or something similar) and some masking tape ready, then quickly cover the cylinder with the plastic and use the tape to strap it good enough that dust or dirt won't get into it.

Then, take the hose to a local Napa, hydraulics store, or tractor repair (not Tractor Supply) and get a NEW hose made up to replace the one that's on there.

You can't repair hydraulic hoses because of the pressure involved -- you replace them...

While you're there -- ask them for their smallest size of liquid hydraulic fitting/joint sealer. Read the instructions carefully and follow them carefully -- it only takes a very little bit of it -- you want to seal the joint without getting the sealant into the circuit.

When you're putting the new hose back on, you should be able to angle it enough that the QA lock doesn't rub the hose when it moves.

Hope this helps...

 

[SnowRidge]

What Kent said, but that's not a Lovejoy connector. Lovejoy connectors are mechanical coupling devices that join two or more shafted components together.

Lovejoy

In some areas, Goodyear stores are the local go to place for hydraulic hoses. They will be in Yellow Pages if they exist in your area.

 

[woodlandfarms]

My wife is still all upset about the whole lovejoy thing...

 

[KentT]

Re-reading this, I realized that I didn't answer one of your questions...

You likely won't need to bleed the circuit, once you've replaced the hose, since some fluid will still remain in the cylinder. Simply starting the engine and cycling the QA mechanisms will likely suffice to purge the air, especially since this is the last stop on this circuit before the fluid returns to the tank. Should the QA mechanism appear to move slowly (or not at all) after you've tried it several times, you can post again and we'll try to walk you through bleeding it...

However, you can do something that might increase your chance of success in avoiding needing to bleed it -- and that is to be sure that the cylinder is full of fluid on the side you're about to open up. So, before you open up the circuit, operate the QA valve to send fluid to that side of the piston before you remove the hose.

If the hose that's leaking goes to side that opens the QA lock, then operate the QA valve to open the lock before you remove the hose. If the hose is on the side that closes the lock, then operate the valve to close the lock before you remove the hose...

The hose fitting on the cylinder that is closest to the shiny piston rod pushes the piston back in, retracting it. The hose fitting farthest away from the cylinder's piston rod extends the piston, pushing it out...

One final caution... if you have an air compressor, it is a good idea to use it to blow any possible contamination from the new hose before you install it. There may be a few particles of rubber or the metal reinforcing mesh inside the hose from where the hydraulics shop cut it and put the fittings on it... Better safe than sorry -- so if you can, blow it out good with air before you put the new hose on.

If you don't have an air compressor -- specifically ask the hydraulics shop to make sure they blow it out for you before you take it home to install it. Then, put it in a plastic bag to keep it clean until you get it installed.

This sounds a bit **** -- but again, better safe than sorry...

 

[SnowRidge]

My wife is still all upset about the whole lovejoy thing...

We Need Pictures!!!

 

[KentT]

We Need Pictures!!!

LOL -- it sounds even better when you call it a Lovejoy coupling instead of a Lovejoy connector...

 

[woodlandfarms]

We Need Pictures!!!

They don't make a lense that wide...

 

[cqaigy2]

They don't make a lense that wide...

I think one of those macro type lenses will suffice. And isn't it a coupler, not a connector?

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Kent,

You aren't being **** at all, you are being very intelligent. If you take the average new hydraulic hose, even blown out with air, and pump a 55 gallon drum of clean oil through it into another perfectly clean drum, every major manufacturer of oil or equipment will tell you, through lab analysis, that the second drum of oil is now too contaminated to use. Don't clean a new hose with brakleen either, brakleen attacks nitrile and most of your hydraulic hoses have a nitrile inner liner. I use and I recommend you find a shop that uses the Ultra-clean system. I fire a foam plug through the hose before and after crimping. You should see the crap that comes out of a new hose. If you can't find a shop that does this, run water through the hose then compressed air to get all the water out.

Andy

 

[cqaigy2]

Wayne County Hose,

Thanks for the cleaning info!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Wayne County Hose,

Thanks for the cleaning info!

You're welcome. From what I've read about you guys and your PT's, I think cleanliness is even more important on your machines than the typical tractor.

Andy

 

[ldabe]

Pics of damaged QA hoses.
The right hose was slightly damaged, so a year ago I wrapped it with that plastic.
If you look close at the left connection, at the bottom, you can see it cutting into the hose.
Every time it was operated it would rub across like a knife.

 

[KentT]

Pics of damaged QA hoses.
Every time it was operated it would rub across like a knife.

I haven't noticed that type of wear or interference on my older PT-425. The hoses that are on my QA seem to have a bit bigger loop of slack in them...

Is there any slack in the hose up next to the QA coupling where it disconnects? I wonder if your hose may be a bit shorter, causing it to rub like that...

You had the right idea in trying to put some kind of protection on it. You can get "armored hoses" but they are very expensive. Maybe Wayne County can offer suggestions...

 

[toy]

Pics of damaged QA hoses.
The right hose was slightly damaged, so a year ago I wrapped it with that plastic.
If you look close at the left connection, at the bottom, you can see it cutting into the hose.
Every time it was operated it would rub across like a knife.

On the hoses, if you loosen the end of the hoses a little and lift up on the hoses a little so that the end of the hose kind of turns in a clock wise manner on one and a counter clock wise on the other with the hose lifted a little snug down the hose ends tight and that should help hold the hose off of the moving parts, with the hose snugged up it won't let the hose turn back to where it was before you lifted it up and will hold it in a new position. You might even take a pair of channel locks to help turn the hose end. If you could get a little slack that might help. I hope I explained that good enough so that you can understand what I am talking about. At any time that you change the position of a hose move all joints of the machine to make sure the hose don't catch and bind or rub anything else. Another thing that I noticed was that the ends of the cylinder eyes looks a little dry and the cylinder is turned down as far as it can go according to the way the eyes look. If you could turn the body of the cylinder a little that would help get the hoses away from the moving parts of the quick attach. That might help some, hope it does.

 

[ldabe]

Not the best design, but it works.
Next time I get new hoses, I will have them add a couple extra inches.
Should of had these pics up days ago, but too many things in the way.

 

[KentT]

Looks like you're back in business, Abe! Great!

I'd just watch to make sure that the rod that tilts the QA doesn't rub on those hoses, and I think you'll be good to go. If you need to, you could pull the hoses closer to those eyelets (that you're not using now) and use a zip-tie through there to hold them out of the way, if necessary.

 

[woodlandfarms]

It should be noted to newbies about what kind of connectors to put on the PT hoses. Wayne County explained the difference to me once, now I cannot remember the specifics. But it seems to me PT designed a lot of component space around a particular connector length and if you use the alternates, you will not have enough room to make connections. That has happened to me a couple of times and it is a bummer when you are holding a $100 hose that is now worthless...

I had to do the same thing on my quick release hoses. I tied them up to the eyelets with zip ties cause the will rub and bind.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Geez Carl, I forget too. Oh, I think it was about the length of the crimp fitting on the hose? Weatherhead has a new series crimp, the Z series, that is very much shorter. I am slowly switching over to them. The crimps in the above pics are U series crimps. I see Abe did use the 245 series hose which is a great 2-wire hose. After I got in a reel of it, I switched over to the 245 hose completely for almost all my 2 wire.

One thing you do want to watch out for is the bend of the hose too close to the crimp. Any bend should start at least 1.5 times the diameter of the hose away from the end of the crimp.

 

[ldabe]

Thanks for all the suggestions and info.
KentT, I will probably take your advice and use those zip ties.
Also, just curious, I paid $15 per hose, is that a good price?