Aux lights and wiring for a B2410?

[TresCrows]

Howdy, long time away. Good to see old names still hereabouts. Hope all are well.

My 2410 is doing well, but I wanted to run some auxiliary lights on the ROPS. They are LED lights and do not draw many amps. I will run a relay and build a harness. My curiosity is any idea where to run the wire harness an were to put the switch. i do not want to drill any holes in the metal but there does appear to be a switch spot right beside the existing light control switch on the instrument panel. But, I have never removed that piece. So, how does it come off or where might be a better location for a waterproof toggle switch?

Any ideas or help appreciated.

Oh, my B2410, 600 hours now. Just got a Hustler Fast Track SD as a garage mate.

J.

 

[vacman]

My first tractor was a B2410 that I just sold last fall. I had a couple of lights on the ROPS (2 front and 1 rear facing) and a power plug on the back that all had their own switches. Sorry I don't have any pics but I'll try and describe where I placed them.

I did the lights first and those switches went on the low, vertical part of the dash. They we're about even with the ignition switch. The first switches I tried were a rocker type but those didn't last. I changed them to water tight toggle switches with rubber boots. They worked for the rest of my ownership. I put one switch for each front and rear. The power plug switch went on the dash where you saw some room next to the light switch.

At the time I didn't know any better so the power came from the headlight circuit for the lights. The power plug came from the work light circuit that is already wired back there so I had to run the wiring back up under the dash. By comparison, I ran some lights on my new tractor and went to the fuse box and added fused circuits for them.

The wiring itself ran up the inward side of the ROPS on the right side. This was tied off well with tie wraps but it was visible. Fwiw, I used simple 12/4 jacketed wire that isn't really designed for this but it worked for 10 years. On my new tractor, there was already a 1/4 hole in the top, center of the ROPS so I ran the wiring inside the tubing.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Good luck.
John

 

[DT86]

You could wire the lights so that the head lights trigger the relay.

Totally different tractor, but my my head light switch triggers the relay and then there is a switch on the roll bar for the lights.

I did it that way so the LED add-on lights don't get left on after the key is off, and I switched them separate from the head lights because I'm on the road frequently and folks would be pi**ed with them in their face.

If you aren't on the road at night I'd just tap the head lights to triggers the relay and forget a switch at all.

If thats not for you, the blank switch plates probably pop right off with a knife if it's a raised plug over an actual switch hole.

 

[newbury]

Just a suggestion - mount the LED's with magnets. There's a thread on here. CMS sells some strong magnets at a reasonable price.

This way you can easily "redirect" the LED's.

 

[TresCrows]

Thanks guys. I spent a good portion of the day working on it. I wired from the battery. Used a waterproof toggle switch and a pre-made wire harness I borrowed from a fog light kit I had. The lights are LED Truck Lights brand. The B2410 does not have any faux switches covers. But there is a little place just to the right of the existing light master control. I drilled it with a Unibit to size.

The instrument cluster pops off easy enough and will lift enough out of the way to work. I used a large plastic spoon into the two "screwdriver' slots to get it started and then used a thin putty knife to actually work the panel up and off. Of course it was filthy back there so took the opportunity to do some cleaning.

My ROPs is not drilled and I kinda did not feel good about drilling it so I ran the wire loom up the right inner side, along under the tractor through the right tail lamp, along the frame and then up the firewall and across the right side to the battery. The relay is mounted on the little frame cross member above the battery. I may still the ROPs yet, just hate drilling holes in my tractor. The wiring is fully encased in plastic loom. I made all needed connections with the waterproof butt type crimps, hit them with a lighter and they melt to a watertight connection.

The LED lamps are very bright, maybe too bright, lol. I may add a smaller rear facing light. Last fall I was tilling and planting grass until 2AM in the morning and wished for the lights then. I had long ago ran some halogens on it but they pulled to many amps. The LEDs do not pull much power and are hugely bright and light my whole yard up brightly.

I will try to get a few shots.

Thanks,
J.