muddstopper
Veteran Member
Does anybody know of or where to find a auto cycle valve that is rated for more than 25gpm of flow. I am wanting 30-30gpm for a twin cylinder setup, 2-4inch cylinders working side by side, or maybe one 6in cylinder.
Autocycle log splitter valve
- Thread starter muddstopper
- Start date
glastron23
Silver Member
the Prince RD5000 is rated for 25GPM.... http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system/Documents/83/831/8313/8313421_manual.pdf is about the max limit of most valves. you may need to build a custom unit. Just WHAT the heck are you going to split with 2–4's or a 6 cylinder... oak sideways????
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,928
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Just use a divider to send that 30 GPM fluid to two splitters in parallel.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
I dont get easy wood. Most of what I get is knotty and 24"+ in dia. My current machine has a 5in cylinder and a 6way wedge, 28gpm 2stage pump. So far, That setup pretty well splits everything I throw at it. At times it will bog and grunt, but it gets the job done. Even with a 6way split, I still endup resplitting a lot of wood. My next splitter will be a 12 way wedge design, for that I feel a little more power will be needed. How much power and how big a cylinder I get will depend on finding a valve that will flow enough oil so I dont lose to much cycle speed. My thoughts for using 2-4in cylinders instead of a single 6in has more to do with port sizing and rod surface area than anything else. What I have been seeing for ports on a 6in cyl is usually 3/4 size's. 4in cylinders I am finding with 1/2 and 3/4 sizeing. 2-3/4 ports will flow more than 1-3/4 port. I can get 6in cylinder with larger ports, but cost goes up pretty fast.
JJ, I see what you are saying, but I only want to run one splitter. I have some 30gpm electric valves I can use, but Not what I really want to do.
Scooby074
Super Member
I have a Prince AC valve on my splitter.
I like it a lot for its functionality, but if I was to do it again, Id do it another way. The prince valve is to finicky and hard to adjust. Kicks out at the wrong time or sometimes doesnt kick out at all causing the splitter to go into relief.
This is my second valve. First one did the same. They start off fine but as they wear in, weird stuff starts happening. Im going to pull it apart this spring and see if I can see whats up.
What Id do is either go with an electric setup or even cheaper, a pushrod on the wood pusher that links back to the valve. It would be much easier to set up either system and keep it working. The prince, at least, is unreliable.
I like it a lot for its functionality, but if I was to do it again, Id do it another way. The prince valve is to finicky and hard to adjust. Kicks out at the wrong time or sometimes doesnt kick out at all causing the splitter to go into relief.
This is my second valve. First one did the same. They start off fine but as they wear in, weird stuff starts happening. Im going to pull it apart this spring and see if I can see whats up.
What Id do is either go with an electric setup or even cheaper, a pushrod on the wood pusher that links back to the valve. It would be much easier to set up either system and keep it working. The prince, at least, is unreliable.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
I was wondering about reliability of the autocycle valves. I could use the electric valves and rig up some limit switches I guess. My valves are only single solenoid, I'll have to think about how to tie them together. This is going on a processor and I am wanting to run some other operations off the splitter circuit.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,928
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
You could install limit switches for the cyl or a pressure switch that will operate a relay to reverse the split using solenoid valves and relays, etc.
You might start the cycle by pressing a lock switch that will auto power the solenoid and at the end stroke, then switch the power to the reverse solenoid for the reverse split.
Some hyd cyl have a magnetic sensor built in for this purpose.
You might start the cycle by pressing a lock switch that will auto power the solenoid and at the end stroke, then switch the power to the reverse solenoid for the reverse split.
Some hyd cyl have a magnetic sensor built in for this purpose.
Scooby074
Super Member
Think about a mechanical linkage that works a valve. Might be easier and cheaper.
OP
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Mechanical linkage would certainly be cheap, and not much to go wrong. With the operator station a few feet away from the actual splitter, might take a little fanigeling to run the rods to the control valve, assuming a manual valve with detent. Worth considering for sure.
Electric valves and limit switches would be pretty simple as well. Since I already have them, no real added cost. Use a limit switch at full extention to retract the cylinder and a pressure switch to stop the cycle at full retraction. Need to throw in a few reliefs someplace. Easier to route wires than hoses or mechanical linkage. I'll have to ponder this for a little while to figure out what I need to make it work. My solenoid valves are 24V, I would want to see if 12V solenoids are available for these valves since I am going to be using a 12V electrical system.
Electric valves and limit switches would be pretty simple as well. Since I already have them, no real added cost. Use a limit switch at full extention to retract the cylinder and a pressure switch to stop the cycle at full retraction. Need to throw in a few reliefs someplace. Easier to route wires than hoses or mechanical linkage. I'll have to ponder this for a little while to figure out what I need to make it work. My solenoid valves are 24V, I would want to see if 12V solenoids are available for these valves since I am going to be using a 12V electrical system.