auto darkening helmets

[Fallon]

Its always good to have spare helmets. Sometimes your main helmet breaks, or wont fit some where, you have a helper/fitter that needs protection, etc. Keeping a spare working cheap NT or HF helmet around is always a great idea.

 

[k0ua]

Its always good to have spare helmets. Sometimes your main helmet breaks, or wont fit some where, you have a helper/fitter that needs protection, etc. Keeping a spare working cheap NT or HF helmet around is always a great idea.

Amen to that. I have 2 spares. Need them sometimes.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I just started learning over the weekend too. Used some 6011 and 6013 rods. Next will be 7018. I bought a new auto-darkening helmet and at first I didn't realize what I was supposed to be seeing because it was turned up to dark. It was set at 11 and recommended starting at 12 then work down. I wound up at a little over 9. The little thin stuff was the hardest, trying to get a good weld quickly without burning a hole through it. Once I finished with that I moved to thicker stuff and did really well with that. Even practiced welding expanded metal to angle since I want to make a better grill guard for the tractor and that went well too. None of the welds look particularly great but are solid. They look as good or better than my dad's welds, but he's been getting worse, I think a combination of bad eyes and a shorter fuse on his patience with stuff like that.

 

[Shaneard]

I just started learning over the weekend too. Used some 6011 and 6013 rods. Next will be 7018. I bought a new auto-darkening helmet and at first I didn't realize what I was supposed to be seeing because it was turned up to dark. It was set at 11 and recommended starting at 12 then work down. I wound up at a little over 9. The little thin stuff was the hardest, trying to get a good weld quickly without burning a hole through it. Once I finished with that I moved to thicker stuff and did really well with that. Even practiced welding expanded metal to angle since I want to make a better grill guard for the tractor and that went well too. None of the welds look particularly great but are solid. They look as good or better than my dad's welds, but he's been getting worse, I think a combination of bad eyes and a shorter fuse on his patience with stuff like that.

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

 

[Big Barn]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

Same here. For the first 30 years all I ever used was 6013 (and 6011 occasionally.)

 

[bcp]

Originally Posted by orezok
I've been using a Striker helmet from Usaweld for about 5 years and I like it a lot. Good clear view, I've dropped it one too many times and the lens is now damaged. I just ordered a new one Striker Supreme Welding Helmet, Welding Gun Accessories, Metal Working, Welder Supplies | USAWeld.com
For $99 free shipping no tax. Check out the specs.

I finally looked at the banner of your avatar and nearly fell out of my chair laughing. :thumbsup:

I like it, too.

Bruce

 

[scdeerslayer]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

Oh yeah I know it needs to be turned up for 70xx rods. I found this little guide about that:

I'm going to print that out and laminate and keep it near the welder. I figure I'll mostly use 6013 and use the 7018 for the heavy duty stuff.

 

[k0ua]

The thing about 6013, is that it is easier to have slag entrapment in the bead if you long arc it. I have made some nice beads with 6013 too, and also often use the 3/32 or even 1/16 for some quick tacks. but it is not my favorite rod. It is easier to tack with a 6013 or a 7014 than a 7018, but 7018 is my "go to"rod when I want the beads to look the best they can and be the strongest they can be. I always break off the little glassy looking "corn" that forms on the end of a 7018 off with my gloved thumb before restriking. It is faster than a file, or pecking around to try to get it to break off. I have been doing that for quite a while and so far no problems with that method.

 

[Ford850]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

I didn't know 6013 was good for painted or rusty metal. I thought that duty was reserved for 6011.

 

[daugen]

I always break off the little glassy looking "corn" that forms on the end of a 7018 off with my gloved thumb

I think I might wait awhile before I try that...
I probably want the hair on my right arm to match what is on the left...
and yes, I have gloves and a real Miller welding shirt. Thing looks way too hot to wear...
I just watched today.
But I whacked away at my first bead , on a piece of junk test metal. Which was really too thin,
need to practice on a thicker piece. Dropped amps from 120 down to 85 and it ran fine after melting holes
to begin with.