At Home In The Woods

/ At Home In The Woods #3,701  
ruralruss,
Do you clean out your fireplace with the wetvac? How do you prevent sucking up hot coals? Hot coals could do a number on a wetvac.

Obed

My wife does it because she has steadier hands and no we do not clean the stove out with the vac. She uses the fireplace shovel with one hand while holding the vac hose above the bucket. Many time there are hot coals left in the stove and also in the bucket. If the fire is cold we still do the same and you can get it pretty clean with just the shovel. When we clean the stove hot we set it outside on bare ground unless it is raining or going to, then I set in in the garage on the concrete away from everything.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,702  
I have cleaned the Wood stove with shop vac after like a week or two without a fire. My coals will stay from a cold fire for up to 30 hours after last loading and 3x that long i think if it was really hot fire for weeks.

I just shovel out and try and hold the bucked as close to the stove door as possible so the draft takes the fly ash up the chimney.

Is that fireplace all crosoted up or are the doors black?I was thinking your doors were clear though. If your doors look like that have you checked your chimney, it may be way worse than that!

As far as when i take the ashes out, if there more cold like with a few coals i use a plastic 5 gal bucket and then take them into the gravel drive about 40ft from home and place them there weather raining or not. I have melted my bucket a few times by getting some good size coals in there. These last few times i have went back to my old coal bucket that has a rotted place half way up the back (but i lean it foward while shoveling to the ash dont hit this spot untill i level it outside then i dont care. Anyway with the bucket i shovel out ashes and coals enough so that i can load wood adequatly. It will get so hot that even through my heavy thick HF welding glove i can feel the heat of the bucket. It goes straight outside and into the drive to cool for a few days before thrown in the garden.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,703  
I recently built shelves for the equipment space in my basement. I used MDF in 11 1/4 inch width by 3/4 inch thick. It comes in 16 ft pieces. It is approximately the equal (in area) of half a sheet of 4x8 material. You only have to cut it to length (no ripping of 4x8 material. I build my own brackets out of wood or steel depending on the situation. If shelves are to hold lots of weight I put a cleat across the back to support back edge of shelf and glue and nail a 2 inch piece along front edge to make the shelf stiffer.

I also have shelves similar to these in my workshops (wood working and metal working) and so far so good regarding shelf sag. Oldest shelves are 5+ years old and are in great shape.

If you'd rather spend the time and not the money then DIY shelves are the way to go. If you have a source of throw away, i.e. FREE pallets then recycle pallets into shelves and save even more $.

Patrick
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,704  
I have cleaned the Wood stove with shop vac after like a week or two without a fire. My coals will stay from a cold fire for up to 30 hours after last loading and 3x that long i think if it was really hot fire for weeks.

I just shovel out and try and hold the bucked as close to the stove door as possible so the draft takes the fly ash up the chimney.

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Using the perforated scoop helps to sift the ashes to separate them from the coals. We bought the scoop at a pet store. It was made for scooping stuff out of a litter box. After separating the coals from the ashes, I used the FP shovel to shovel the ashes into the bucket, only partially lifting the lid on the bucket to minimize how many ashes float into the air.

Is that fireplace all crosoted up or are the doors black?I was thinking your doors were clear though. If your doors look like that have you checked your chimney, it may be way worse than that!
We may have some creosote in the chimney. My wife was cleaning out the fireplace today and found some creosote flakes on the baffle at the top of the fireplace located below the chimney flu. What we don't know is whether or not what we are seeing normal or is an issue. But we are playing it safe and going to get a chimney sweep to come inspect and clean our chimney before we build another fire.

We have two factors potentially affecting possible creosote build-up. First is, obviously, some of our firewood is not as seasoned as I would like. Secondly, to minimize the firewood consumption, we have been burning the wood with the fireplace's air control on low (closed as much as possible) which lowers the temperature of the fire. Keeping the air control on low still keeps the house warm so we don't really need more air to heat the house once the fire is burning well. However, we may need to burn fires using more air to provide a cleaner fire.

The blackness on the fireplace glass seems to be normal for this fireplace based on what we've read in the support forums for our fireplace. Burning a real hot fire will clean much of the blackness off the glass.

Obed
 

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/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,705  
My wife does it because she has steadier hands and no we do not clean the stove out with the vac. She uses the fireplace shovel with one hand while holding the vac hose above the bucket.
ruralruss,
My wife tried this method of cleaning out the fireplace today and said it worked very well. She was able to use the handle of the bucket to hold the wet vac hose in place above the bucket which freed both of her hands while she shovelled out the ashes.

Obed
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,706  
I found a very informative article about creosote and how to prevent/minimize it.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,707  
Back in the early 80's, I worked at a fireplace / wood stove retail store in Colorado. The proprietor was an immigrant stone mason who had built hundreds of chimneys during his career, plus several masonry chimneys in his sprawling store. In addition to the masonry chimneys, there were several metal insulated chimneys.

We heated the store using only wood heat. Every section of the store had either a wood stove, fireplace insert or a decorator fireplace.

I asked him one day how often he cleaned his flu's. He replied - never. (parts of his store had been constructed for 25 years). He said that on all the chimneys with the air tight stoves - he purposely starts a flu fire (raging fire in the fire box with the doors open), and as soon as he hears the flu catch fire (kinda sounds like a jet roar) he would shut the doors / turn the air control off, and in 30 seconds the combustion air was totally consumed, all flames extinguished. Then he would crack open the air control to put the stove on low heat and head to the next stove to repeat.

He went on to say, that if done often enough it keeps the flu clean as a whistle.

(On the decorative fireplaces, those were never burned enough to worry about. Plus he would rotate stoves all of the time - so those chimneys were "cleaned by fire" when an air tight stove was installed. )

They actually had two retail locations. After I was trained, they sent me to manage the other store, and I was instructed to do the same. I must say, it is a scary feeling to let the fire rage to the point you here the chimney catch, but a fire does need oxygen to burn. After a while it became second nature.

DISCLAIMER: He was a professional who knew exactly what type of chimney he had, and had either personally installed or supervised the installation of every chimney (and stove). Plus, he maintained the stoves, replacing gaskets, etc and knew if he turned the air dampers off, it would completely shut off the oxygen supply. DO NOT TRY THIS.

I will say that I do the same with my stove in my building. Oh, not every time I use the stove, but maybe every 10th time. My flue (insulated metal) is clean as a whistle.

One key point, the flu / chimney systems were inspected yearly to make sure no cracks, obstructions or other hazards were present.

And one other tidbit, you can clean the glass with easy off oven cleaner to get rid of the soot build up.
 
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/ At Home In The Woods #3,708  
He said that on all the chimneys with the air tight stoves - he purposely starts a flu fire (raging fire in the fire box with the doors open), and as soon as he hears the flu catch fire (kinda sounds like a jet roar) he would shut the doors / turn the air control off, and in 30 seconds the combustion air was totally consumed, all flames extinguished.

Glad to hear I'm not the only moron. ;) The stove can really complain like there is a monster wanting out. Then you hear all of the crispy flakes falling down to the bottom (35' supervised masonary).
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,709  
ruralruss,
My wife tried this method of cleaning out the fireplace today and said it worked very well. She was able to use the handle of the bucket to hold the wet vac hose in place above the bucket which freed both of her hands while she shovelled out the ashes.

Obed

As in the article you mentioned, whenever we start a fire or reload the fire we let it burn until real hot before we cut off the air.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,710  
I have an 18 1/2 ft util trailer, a 7x12 dump trailer, and a lumber/utility rack on my crew cab short bed F-250 Super Duty. Since getting/installing the Harbor Freight rack I use the trailers about 1/3 to 1/2 as much. Way less hassle with rack. I carry 20 ft lengths of steel, pipe, lumber etc.If the material is super floppy I put a board or two up with it and tie them together to reduce/eliminate floppy bouncing.

Although I have hills/slopes that make loading into the util trailer or dumper easier they are not where it is convenient so building a loading ramp is on my list. I will make a front and sloping sides out of concrete and fill with rocks, debris, and dirt with crushed limestone gravel with fines (crusher run) on top for all weather ops. I will put "weep" holes in the concrete wall to drain any accumulation water so as to avoid build up of hydrostatic pressure.I may opt to build the loading dock/ramps as a grease pit to facilitate oil changes and inspection/work on bottom side of wheeled gear.

As regards coals vs vac... There is a commercially available metal bucket (5 gal I think) that you put upstream of your vac. It catches the debris before it goes to the vac canister. So if there are any coals they are trapped in this metal bucket where you may cap them off air tight so they go out for later safe disposal.

On my list is the job of a DIY copy of a small cyclone filter made of metal to safely vac live coals, essentially a metal version of Oneida's "Dust Deputy."

Link to Dust Deputy:

Buy Oneida Molded DIY Dust Deputy Cyclone at Woodcraft

"Borrowing" their design but fabricated in metal should not be too tough. It will keep nearly all the fire residue out of the shop or wet/dry vac and its filter. I have Oneida's full sized cyclone system, a 3 HP Dust Gorilla and it works super. I expect a scaled down version to work well too.

Although I have a couple 25 ft 2 inch vac hoses that reach anywhere in my shops by plugging into the dust collection system's distributed inlets I still could use a Dust Deputy or two but am too cheap to pay their price, hence the DIY plan.

Oh, both the above listed trailers have ramps and built-in ramp storage but... the ramps are darned heavy so I will build the loading dock and only have to use the ramps away from home.

Note to guys using boards for ramps: Making the boards wider by 3-4 inches or more is NOT an efficient approach. Better to add a 2x4 or 2x6 at right angles to board ramp (a little shorter than ramp for clearance at the ends) on the underside of the ramps near midline of ramp. Adding the same amount of wood here is far better than adding width.

...and finally... great job building those shelves you guys. Good on you!

Patrick
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,711  
ruralruss said:
As in the article you mentioned, whenever we start a fire or reload the fire we let it burn until real hot before we cut off the air.
We have a chimney sweep coming Tuesday to inspect and clean, if needed, the chimney. I'm now thinking we should build at least one real hot fire each day. However, we are playing it safe and getting our chimney inspected before building a real hot fire.
Obed
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,712  
patrick_g said:
Note to guys using boards for ramps: Making the boards wider by 3-4 inches or more is NOT an efficient approach. Better to add a 2x4 or 2x6 at right angles to board ramp (a little shorter than ramp for clearance at the ends) on the underside of the ramps near midline of ramp. Adding the same amount of wood here is far better than adding width.
Patrick
Patrick,
We just bought the hardware today for creating the board ramps. I might install them and try them out this weekend.
Obed
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,713  
Back in the early 80's, I worked at a fireplace / wood stove retail store in Colorado. The proprietor was an immigrant stone mason who had built hundreds of chimneys during his career, plus several masonry chimneys in his sprawling store. In addition to the masonry chimneys, there were several metal insulated chimneys.

We heated the store using only wood heat. Every section of the store had either a wood stove, fireplace insert or a decorator fireplace.

I asked him one day how often he cleaned his flu's. He replied - never. (parts of his store had been constructed for 25 years). He said that on all the chimneys with the air tight stoves - he purposely starts a flu fire (raging fire in the fire box with the doors open), and as soon as he hears the flu catch fire (kinda sounds like a jet roar) he would shut the doors / turn the air control off, and in 30 seconds the combustion air was totally consumed, all flames extinguished. Then he would crack open the air control to put the stove on low heat and head to the next stove to repeat.

He went on to say, that if done often enough it keeps the flu clean as a whistle.

(On the decorative fireplaces, those were never burned enough to worry about. Plus he would rotate stoves all of the time - so those chimneys were "cleaned by fire" when an air tight stove was installed. )

They actually had two retail locations. After I was trained, they sent me to manage the other store, and I was instructed to do the same. I must say, it is a scary feeling to let the fire rage to the point you here the chimney catch, but a fire does need oxygen to burn. After a while it became second nature.

DISCLAIMER: He was a professional who knew exactly what type of chimney he had, and had either personally installed or supervised the installation of every chimney (and stove). Plus, he maintained the stoves, replacing gaskets, etc and knew if he turned the air dampers off, it would completely shut off the oxygen supply. DO NOT TRY THIS.

I will say that I do the same with my stove in my building. Oh, not every time I use the stove, but maybe every 10th time. My flue (insulated metal) is clean as a whistle.

One key point, the flu / chimney systems were inspected yearly to make sure no cracks, obstructions or other hazards were present.

And one other tidbit, you can clean the glass with easy off oven cleaner to get rid of the soot build up.

This sounds absolutly crazy!! They throw burning hunks of crosote out sometimes.

Whatever, i will just buy the cleaning brushes and sweep my chimney once a year.


To Obed..

I cant use a cat litter scoop 95% of the time as the ashes are hot, and there so hot that the scoop will turn to mush as soon as i put it in or if its cooler the colas will melt through real fast. Once cooled i will take it all out except for the big ones i can hand pick out. After all i want as much out as i can get and im starting a new fire so i dont care about the few coals that may be left.
If i could find a metal scoop like that with twice the handle on it that would work.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,714  
We have a chimney sweep coming Tuesday to inspect and clean, if needed, the chimney. I'm now thinking we should build at least one real hot fire each day. However, we are playing it safe and getting our chimney inspected before building a real hot fire.
Obed

Flaky crosote at the bottom of the chimney not a big deal, thick crust on teh top and along the chimney , yes.

Can you get on the roof and look in?

Yes you should run a hot fire getting flue temps in the 400F range (just aboute stove or fireplace) each day to burn or cook off a buch of that stuff before it gets into the danger range.
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,715  
clemsonfor said:
Flaky crosote at the bottom of the chimney not a big deal, thick crust on teh top and along the chimney , yes.

Can you get on the roof and look in?
clemsonfor,
I may try to go look at the chimney today. I can get on the roof by climbing out an attic window that overlooks our back porch shed roof; no ladder is even needed. We got snow here Thursday night which left snow on the roof. I'm hoping the snow is all gone because l don't want to be up there otherwise.
Obed
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,716  
I've done it with 8' ramps (2x8's) on a friends JD riding lawnmower into my F250 (similar height to yours). Having some hill to work with helps a lot. I also have those steel ramp ends on the top of the ramps that helps a TON. Like these, only I just have the top brackets:
Insta-Ramp Steel Ramp Kit 8in., Tops & Feet, Model# RAMP1K | Ramp Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment
It's one of those things that looks so overpriced you tell yourself, "I could make that!" But then you don't get around to it for years and finally breakdown and buy them, and wish you had years ago... :)
I made some ramps using the Insta-Ramp tops that Dave suggested. These things are great. We got the 8" wide version of ramp tops. When I looked at my lumber stack, I had 2x10 boards. The instructions say to not use a wider board than the ramp tops. However, my board only protruded 1" on either side of the ramp top so I think I'm ok. I don't think I would want to use 2x12 boards with the 8" ramp tops. The 8" ramp tops were about $25 for the pair; the 12" ramp tops were about $48 per pair. I didn't understand why 50% wider resulted in almost double the cost.

My boards are 9' long. I removed some wood slats from one of the boards. That board was used as a gangway from the ground to the front door during the house construction.

After finishing bolting the ramp tops to the boards, we went to the small engine mechanic's place and picked up our lawnmower that just got serviced. When backed up against a small slope, the angle of the 9 foot long boards was not steep at all. As the small engine guy drove my lawnmower up the ramps into my pickup truck bed, the boards bent way more than I liked.

When I got home, I parked the truck uphill of our garage at a spot that provided a great spot for unloading the lawnmower. You can see in the picture that the slope of the ramps was not bad at all. I did not trust the boards to support my weight and the lawnmower's weight so I did what clemsonfor suggested. I backed the lawnmower down the ramps while standing on the ground beside the ramps. I steered with one hand while I used my other hand to operate the pedal for the hydrostatic transmission. That method worked like a charm; it was really easy and wasn't scary at all. I even stopped the mower and took a picture of it while it was on the ramps.

attachment.php


You can see there is a noticeable bend in the boards, even with nobody on the mower. The bend was MUCH more pronounced when the service guy road the mower up the ramps. After seeing the bend in the boards with the service guy on the mower, I decided that I would have to attach a perpendicular 2x4 to the underside each of the ramp boards. However, after seeing how easy it was to back the mower down the ramps while I stood on the ground made me decide to just live with the boards like they are. The ramps would be much bulkier with the 2x4s attached to them.

I hope that making these ramps won't cause my wife renege on the green light to buy the utility trailer. If that happens, Dave I'm going to regret your advice.

Obed
 

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/ At Home In The Woods #3,717  
:laughing: just doing my part, Obed!

Seriously, reinforce those ramps. Either a second layer of 2x10 or a 2x4 or 2x3 standing on edge on the underside (the lighter way). Just hold it back from the ends a few inches or more so they don't interfere with the ground or truck bed.

This is one of those things that looks like it costs way too much for what it is. I suspect that $15 of that price is the liability insurance they must have to carry... They are very handy and well worth the price IMHO.
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,718  
dstig1 said:
:laughing: just doing my part, Obed!

Seriously, reinforce those ramps. Either a second layer of 2x10 or a 2x4 or 2x3 standing on edge on the underside (the lighter way). Just hold it back from the ends a few inches or more so they don't interfere with the ground or truck bed.

Stop by the metal shop and pickup 4 (at least 2) 1.5 inch wide strips of 3/32 or 1/8 flat steel. Drill holes every 8" centered. Attach to at least one side of each ramp. That will make it nice and solid without adding bulk (and not too much weight).
 
/ At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#3,719  
Depmandog said:
Stop by the metal shop and pickup 4 (at least 2) 1.5 inch wide strips of 3/32 or 1/8 flat steel. Drill holes every 8" centered. Attach to at least one side of each ramp. That will make it nice and solid without adding bulk (and not too much weight).
Depmandog,
Have you been talking to my wife? She suggested something very similar. Are all you guys trying to cheat me out of my getting a utility trailer? Right now I can tell my wife that those ramps are too dangerous, that we NEED a utility trailer. I already took Dave's advice and am now on shaky ground. If I go to the metal shop, I'll never have a utility trailer.

Obed
 
/ At Home In The Woods #3,720  
Depmandog,
Have you been talking to my wife? She suggested something very similar. Are all you guys trying to cheat me out of my getting a utility trailer? Right now I can tell my wife that those ramps are too dangerous, that we NEED a utility trailer. I already took Dave's advice and am now on shaky ground. If I go to the metal shop, I'll never have a utility trailer.

Obed

I can not understand why you would ever WANT a utility trailer.

If you get a lumber rack you can carry anything you want in your truck and not have to worry about a trailer.

Save your pennies and get a dump trailer when you can afford one. Now that is a very useful trailer. Think of it as a sort of an extra heavy duty utility trailer, with the added benefits of being able to accommodate large loads of junk which you can say "good bye" to with the push of a button.

And, if you need mulch, topsoil, soil amendments, manure, gravel, sand or anything for your garden you will get a much more reasonable price by buying in bulk and using your tractor to spread the heap.

If you have something that won't fit in the bed of the truck, a properly-sized dump trailer will haul it just a well as a utility trailer.
 

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