Asphalt prices per sqft?

[Lynkage]

Thank you Bird!!

I really do want to give the best advice to people.

 

[RonRock]

I'm surprised know one has suggested that you reconsider pouring concrete yourself yet. That would be a BIG pour for a group of guys that don't work concrete together regularly. It can be done of course but there are a lot of things to consider with a pour this size. I'm sure others will chime in on some of the things that can go wrong. And also costs that have not been factored in yet. Rebar, Forms, Gradework, Sealer. Just my 2cnts.

 

[bx24]

A couple of years ago I would have run from a pour like this, but my "team" has poured a 24x44 slab for an addition and a 24x32 garage pad in the last year and both went pretty well.

Don't get me wrong, this will be a b--- buster of a day, but the satisfaction factor cannot be beat.

I have a while to think about it, maybe some sanity will prevail and I will go with decorative crushed gravel and just use my box blade instead!

 

[RonRock]

Don't get me wrong, I'd do it myself also. In fact I generally do "Whatever" just because "They" say I shouldn't. I was just surprised that some of the more sensible among us hadn't advised against. Sounds like you have some peeps you can count on, and an idea what can go wrong with a pour, so I'd say go for it do it with concrete. When it is done it will be done for good. The cement will get hard, and crack. Not being a smartass here, those are the only two rules of concrete I know, It will get Hard, and Crack. Control Joints are your friend. One other thing worth mentioning, it is well worth the effort, be it borrowing or renting. Get a power screed. Much better than a 2X4 screed board and easier on everybody helping on the pour.

 

[getindirty]

$2-3 for 2" asphalt. Good for cars. Not good for dump trucks. 4.5 -5 for 4" concrete. Good for alot of stuff.

Remember on your list of cost to add site prep. Base rock, textile if soft, framing, remesh. You will need a few tools for a nice looking job. 2x4 will not finish very nice. Oh and rubber boots. build a couple of 2' x 2' plywood with a handle mounted towards the edge. These will get you out in the middle of the concrete without having to fix feet prints. Control joints are a must.

 

[bx24]

What is the preference between troweled in control joints and cutting them post pour with a concrete saw?

In a perfect world, does one work better than the other? Also, if I use a concrete saw, should I "pin" the joint like the road crews do?

 

[SnowRidge]

The best thing about having a paved driveway is the satisfaction you will get from knowing that the "rent" you pay to the authorities each year for the right to use your own property will be helping those less fortunate than you . . . . . . like those of us with gravel driveways and no driveway "rent."

 

[Lynkage]

I prefer them with a joiner but a saw works just as well. You normally cut them with a saw the next day and use a saw when you can not get out that far with your joiner. They both work the same except a joiner is faster because the mud is wet.

What is the preference between troweled in control joints and cutting them post pour with a concrete saw?

In a perfect world, does one work better than the other? Also, if I use a concrete saw, should I "pin" the joint like the road crews do?

 

[chevyman003]

my experience in asphalt paving is that you can actually do it yourself,if you have the means to a dump truck,the asphalt is sold by the ton if you were to go and buy it yourself,there are usually two types of asphalt,one is called binder which is a bigger rock,in other words it can be used as a base,the other is surface asphalt,which is the little rock,there is also recycled asphalt with the new asphalt that the companies mixed together.in my area last i heard you couuld buy surface asphalt for 30.00 a ton and binder for 25.00 a ton.the tools to use are a rake like a bull float for concrete,and some shovels and a way to roll it smooth,like a old roller for the lawns,but use water on the roller cause asphalt when hot will stick to the drum,and a metal level.ive done driveways by hand and the longest ive done was 75ft drive.if you can use a level,and keep checking for the depth,and where the water will run you shouldnt have no proplem !

 

[lfarrar]

Another thought that my neighbor had at our house in snow country sugeested to me upon a conversation on a driveway I am looking to do was that he seems to think that the darker(asphalt) helps melt the snow and ice away quicker. Semi- made sence, not sure in your neck of the woods.

Lou

 

[Tim Stuart]

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this product?

PolyPavement: Natural Soil Pavement - Liquid Soil Solidifier

 

[72chevy4x4]

I'm surprised know one has suggested that you reconsider pouring concrete yourself yet. That would be a BIG pour for a group of guys that don't work concrete together regularly. It can be done of course but there are a lot of things to consider with a pour this size. I'm sure others will chime in on some of the things that can go wrong. And also costs that have not been factored in yet. Rebar, Forms, Gradework, Sealer. Just my 2cnts.

last time I helped a buddy out, there was one other guy and myself who were knowledgeable and 4-5 other hands for a 1200 sqft pad. We didn't use a power float, but did have a power screed with a single hand trowel finish. I was really sore and beat up after the hard work, I'm sure the helpers weren't in that bad of shape. IF you're going to do the pour yourself, get the right tools, make sure the truck can pull right in and drop the concrete where it's needed and have plenty of help to move the concrete and start the finish work while the pour is going on still. Also, don't do it on a (projected to be) hot day, you WILL regret it as the conrete will set quickly.

 

[Ryszard]

<I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this product?

PolyPavement: Natural Soil Pavement - Liquid Soil Solidifier>

Yes. Last year I did a 3400x30 ft runway using two polymer emulsions, Soil Cement and Polypavement. I'm flying off it and for the most part it has been working. The biggest thing you have to consider is it's not traditional paving. It just makes dirt hard. How long will it last? I have no idea. I've seen roads made out of it, parking lots and talked to a lot of people about it and decided to do it. There was no other way I could afford a hard surfaced runway. It also requires periodic maintenace that's not normally asssociated with paving because, like I said, it's just hard dirt. Anyone wanting more detail pls contact me off line.

 

[trrjohn]

A good spec for concrete is 6 bag air entraining mix meeting 4000 psi compressive strength in 28 days,
placed at a slump no greater than 3"
with entrained air from 5 to 7 percent as tested at the site of placement.

Three test cylinders shall be taken for every 15 cu yards.

Concrete shall be sprayed with an impervious sealer after finishing.

Expansion control joints shall be cut 1/3 the depth of the pavement at intervals no greater than 10 feet.

I personally add 100 lbs of Class C fly ash per cubic yard to give greater resistance to salt damage.

John