Asphalt driveway damage / repair

[dgeesaman]

In a little over two years at our property, we've damaged the asphalt section. I don't recall a single crack in it when we moved in, now there are alligator cracks in many places.

Tell me what I'm facing here. We're currently getting a weekly dumpster and recycling removal as well as a weekly porta-john cleanout. We get a few triaxle loads of stone/gravel per year as well - I think it's safe to say we'll have to continue with this forever.

Once it's cracked, is there any way to stop the damage?

Winter is coming, should I get it professionally sealed?

If we simply save up and get another layer of blacktop put down, will the end result be stronger than now?

David

 

[MNBobcat]

Get it professionally sealed and make sure they broom on the sealer not spray it. Water gets in those cracks and freezes and that causes problems. The seal coating may help you get a little more life out of the driveway.

The alligatoring is caused by water getting into the base and then the asphalt settling.

 

[Streetcar]

If all of this damage has occurred in two years , the driveway is not thick enough to support the loads and it is structurally failing. Sealing will be a band aid on a broken bone. Save money for total replacement after the existing driveway is no longer functional. I would do no maintenance on the existing asphalt.

 

[Streetcar]

How thick is existing asphalt and is there any gravel base under it?
The areas of asphalt that are cracked make a poor base for asphalt overlays

 

[vtsnowedin]

You don't have enough quality base under the pavement to carry truck loads in spring when the ground is saturated with water. Hense the alligator cracks. Sealing it will help keep the water out but won't fill in any ruts or add any strength. A one inch overlay will fill the ruts and add strength to the pavement but would have to be done several times before you built up enough mass in the pavement to spread the truck loads out to the weaker subsoil without cracking.
You could put on one inch, enjoy it three years then seal it for another three then repeat. How many cycles depends on how old you are.

 

[Billrog]

Residential black top is compress to 2" when laid in order to stand up better to heavy traffic commercial black top has larger aggregate and when laid compressed to 4" thick. You cannot lay new black top over the existing rd. and expect it to be level with not ruts.The existing rd. would have to be ground up and re-leveled before an new layer was put down in order for it to be satisfactory.

 

[Buppies]

vtsnowedin is correct and his method is the cheapest solution. The next method is to dig it up undercut entire area ten inches install 8 inches of road stone here 21B then two inches of SM9.5 al or if large trucks always there 8 inches stone three inches of base asphalt BM 25 then two inches of SM 9.5. Hopefully this helps

 

[paulharvey]

vtsnowedin is correct and his method is the cheapest solution. The next method is to dig it up undercut entire area ten inches install 8 inches of road stone here 21B then two inches of SM9.5 al or if large trucks always there 8 inches stone three inches of base asphalt BM 25 then two inches of SM 9.5. Hopefully this helps

Agree that VTS is right, but I would add that the drainage may be the issue, causing the base to fail. Here (Florida) the reason base fails is nearly always unsuitable material and/or water in base. There simply is No Cheap way to fix unsuitable now, and even if that's the cause, keeping water out of the base will help. I would cut a small swale parrell to the center line, use some rubberized crack sealer and hope for the best. Eventually if it keeps getting worse it will be decision time, about over lay, leveling, milling, reclaiming, or what. Coal-tar driveway sealer makes it pretty but does nothing to fix any problems.

 

[dgeesaman]

The diagnosis makes sense. Our soil is very much silt - it's either soft and muddy or hard and dry and the last couple of winters have been crazy wet. Add the trucks to that, and crunch.

Wouldn't the sealing at least help avoid chunks lifting out during winter?

Anyway, I like the asphalt but I'm not $50k in love. (Dunno the real cost to replace, but we're talking 1000 feet of length)

Would a different finishing be more durable? I'm thinking millings or tar&chip.

 

[tractchores]

It's a good time to do paving with oil prices down. You can look up the cost per SQ FT of asphault in your area to get a sense of what you are looking at. I doubt you're looking at 50k, depending parking areas etc I'd guess you're closer to 25. I just redid mine a couple of years ago and had them grind everything up to create a better base, put gravel in trouble spots, dig some drainage and we ultimately went with 3", which should hold up better. Cost wa about 40k for a little under half a mile ~14 - 20' wide. Going with gravel may be doable too if you're ok with the dust and repairs.