Are replacement tractor parts made out of solid gold?

[DJ54]

I checked TractorHouse, they have more than several complete brake actuators, used and new aftermarket. Used ones don't look too bad, one for $135, another for $161 and change: 368293R91 Parts For Sale | TractorHouse.com

 

[CliffordK]

I checked TractorHouse, they have more than several complete brake actuators, used and new aftermarket. Used ones don't look too bad, one for $135, another for $161 and change: 368293R91 Parts For Sale | TractorHouse.com

Thanks for the link. I seem to get lost on TractorHouse for some reason.

If the complete assembly is available new for $225, surely some of the subcomponents are available somewhere for cheaper. I may hunt some more, or at least make some noise at some of the vendors. For now I went ahead and welded a washer to the end of the stud and put it back together. Not permanent, but good enough that I can move the tractor and use it for the next few days.

Of course, sometimes it is just fun to play a bit too.

The braking surfaces of my parts are moderately pitted. Since I'm not racing Formula 1 with the tractor, perhaps some pits will be OK. If I get a little better organized, I could try to fill the pits (weld), and machine the surfaces.

These are the parts I snagged from E-Bay. Dirty, and not great photos, but the price seemed good, and they didn't appear to have the rust problems that I have. It will give me some stuff to play with. I'm pretty sure one of the inner seals is leaking, so I need to track that down before I make too big of a mess. Perhaps I can completely rebuild it off tractor then reassemble.

Ebay Brake parts 1
Ebay Brake parts 2

 

[DJ54]

That's a pretty good price. Be aware that to need to drop the bull gear to pull that bull pinion assembly out if you're not aware of that. Note the notch in the bull pinion bearing cage. Also only remove one side at a time because the internal gears can drop.

For any parts you may need, open this link to the Case/IH online parts book for the 606. International Gas Tractor | Case IH | MyCNH US Store Scroll down to see brakes and select. Hopefully the bearing is OK, they are outrageous through Case/IH. You can copy and paste the part number to NAPA and they usually cross to the national part number. One you get that part number copy and paste that to Google, or Ebay. I bought sets of bearings on ebay from a seller called Patriot Bearing Supply: Security Measure | eBay All NOS U.S.A Timken bearings for 1/4 to 1/3 the price at Case IH. If it's not in his listing send him a message, he has thousands of bearings not listed. Normally has free shipping too, great guy to deal with.

If you replace the seal without removing the back plate, here's a tip when installing new seal without inverting the seal lip on the splined shaft.

Wrap the shaft with electrical tape starting on the smooth part just outside where the seal rides and wrap outward the full length of the shaft and leave a 1" tail beyond the shaft. Oil the tape, then slide the seal over it, turning it slightly as you push it on, sorta like following threads on a bolt the same direction the tape is wrapped. Being the tape is wrapped from the inside out there are no sharp edges for the seal lip to catch on, it rather jumps over the edges of the tape. When the seal is in place, grab the tail of the tape at the end of the shaft and spiral it off. I've used this method numerous times and have never rolled a lip on a seal. I learned this method 20 years ago from an old Massey-Ferguson mechanic either here on this forum, or another I frequent often. So simple, not sure why I didn't think of it at the time.

 

[CliffordK]

Thank You

 

[DJ54]

Thank You

Welcome..!!

 

[CliffordK]

I have a couple of old tractor that need major repair. I am working on a Dexta currently. One of the big frustrations is that, with everything having to be done via internet, suppliers list by application and not dimensions. Many Dexta parts are similar, and even directly interchange, with Ford and Massey-Ferguson. The picture looks oh-so-close, but without dimensions, I can't be sure. I sure miss the old days of junk yards and good local parts places - plunk my part against new part and measure them!

The other thing I don't get is what gets cataloged. For example, the Sparex listings for Dexta shows the PTO bearing and seal, but not the cut-to-remove collars that retain the bearing and make the inner surface for the seal. How are you supposed to fix things with only some of the needed parts?! (In this case, I'm declaring the bearing fit for further service and using a Speedi-sleeve for the new seal.)

Oh, I ran into that problem yesterday. The fuel cap on my Landini Trekkor 60F went AWOL yesterday. I must not have had it tight enough, and going through brush something must have spun it off.

I had dimensions, but finding a simple fuel cap isn't as easy as one might expect as the brand had several different caps, and photos and descriptions of each one was rather lacking.

If anybody finds this:

Landini Trekkor 60F
Fuel Cap, female threads, approx 60mm with 5mm to 5.5mm pitch.

And, marked "FARMA 122004" on the inside.

Fortunately it has survived being mowed once or twice. I was stressing quite a bit on how to substitute. Thinking I might have to learn to do 3D printing. Or I have a mini CNC router coming sometime, but that would take some programming and some practice.