Anyone here built a deck lately???

hsvhobbit · Jun 5, 2006

I'm bad to grossly overbuild decks. Have built only 3 so far. I'm fond of screws and bolts for pretty much all my fastners. I've used the synthetic decking and like it though it's very flexible compared to the normal 2x6 decking I've used. Just means some tighter spacing on the joists.

I like using 2x8's for the banding and joists, lagbolted to the 4x4 or 4x6 (depending on my mood lol), I try to use 4 foot centers on the posts (I know, it's overkill) but don't have heartburn with 8 foot centers. I've used the pierblocks but for my future decks will set them in concrete probably 3' deep. The pierblocks just don't give any lateral stability so I end up having to crossbrace the heck outta it.

I like 2' centers on the joists but when I used the synthetic I had to go to 16" centers to avoid spring.

I always sit down and mentally build the deck in my head and on paper right from digging the posthole/settin the pierblocks and spec out every board right down to it's dimensions...the only area I fudge on is I'll usually buy an extra stair stringer (I'm lousy cutting stairs) and I buy a few extra 2x4's, maybe an extra 2x6 deck board.

After the first deck I decided that 5lb boxes of 3" deck screws were a hassle, seemed I'd run out and need an emergency trip to the store. Got smart and bought a 25lb box of them. Likewise bought a box of 100 lagbolts so I don't have to worry about fasteners

This is all an expensive way to build a deck but I end up with a solid one with no spring. If I was doing it to make a profit, I'd probably stretch out my spacing on the joists/posts some.

hsvhobbit · Jun 5, 2006

I'm bad to grossly overbuild decks. Have built only 3 so far. I'm fond of screws and bolts for pretty much all my fastners. I've used the synthetic decking and like it though it's very flexible compared to the normal 2x6 decking I've used. Just means some tighter spacing on the joists.

I like using 2x8's for the banding and joists, lagbolted to the 4x4 or 4x6 (depending on my mood lol), I try to use 4 foot centers on the posts (I know, it's overkill) but don't have heartburn with 8 foot centers. I've used the pierblocks but for my future decks will set them in concrete probably 3' deep. The pierblocks just don't give any lateral stability so I end up having to crossbrace the heck outta it.

I like 2' centers on the joists but when I used the synthetic I had to go to 16" centers to avoid spring.

I always sit down and mentally build the deck in my head and on paper right from digging the posthole/settin the pierblocks and spec out every board right down to it's dimensions...the only area I fudge on is I'll usually buy an extra stair stringer (I'm lousy cutting stairs) and I buy a few extra 2x4's, maybe an extra 2x6 deck board.

After the first deck I decided that 5lb boxes of 3" deck screws were a hassle, seemed I'd run out and need an emergency trip to the store. Got smart and bought a 25lb box of them. Likewise bought a box of 100 lagbolts so I don't have to worry about fasteners

This is all an expensive way to build a deck but I end up with a solid one with no spring. If I was doing it to make a profit, I'd probably stretch out my spacing on the joists/posts some.

dooleysm · Jun 5, 2006

Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement?

dooleysm · Jun 5, 2006

Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement?

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement? )

10'-10" is the max span on a deck for a PT 2x8" at 16" o/c. The only excuse for increasing to 24" o/c is if you would use 2x6" PTL or Ipe' as decking instead of 5/4" x 6" PTL decking.

I never use 4x4 posts for any deck. They're too apt to twist and just don't have enough meat to cut out for a beam. Use 6x6's and the project is much nicer for a few bucks more.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Experience says 15' is too far to span with a PT 2x8 on 16" centers.

6x6's on 8' centers seem to be holding up nicely for supports.

I auger down about 3' with my PHD and fill with concrete then place my posts on that footer. I haven't used any bracing on my posts, but I have yet to notice any lateral movement from my deck. Perhaps the large posts combined with the deck being bolted to the house and being a 3 sided wrap around jobber have tightened it up enough to avoid any lateral movement? )

10'-10" is the max span on a deck for a PT 2x8" at 16" o/c. The only excuse for increasing to 24" o/c is if you would use 2x6" PTL or Ipe' as decking instead of 5/4" x 6" PTL decking.

I never use 4x4 posts for any deck. They're too apt to twist and just don't have enough meat to cut out for a beam. Use 6x6's and the project is much nicer for a few bucks more.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction. )

The spans I gave are for #2 PT S. yellow pine-your typical deck framing lumber. Now you can span further with #1 grade PT SYP. I typically use ONLY #1 on all my projects for appearance and extra span capability. Typically, #1 can span ~10% further than #2. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif but check your span tables, then build.

Builder · Jun 5, 2006

( Good advice. Your span is correct and mine is wrong without my even looking. I have tables that state 11'-11" for the yellow pine but there is a reduction for exterior application that mine isn't allowing for. As you noted, the cantilevered beam is the best option whenever your far enough above grade to get one in. One thing about the span tables is they vary somewhat even on interior-only materials, same species, same spacing, same loading, same deflection, etc. Always have. Of course everything spans farther today than it did 25 years ago??? With all the improvement in wood quality that's easy to figure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I remember 2 x 10 hem fir @16" OC dropping off same loading chart about 14" shorter than today. Must be the global warming. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No matter, you took more time on the reply and gave better direction. )

The spans I gave are for #2 PT S. yellow pine-your typical deck framing lumber. Now you can span further with #1 grade PT SYP. I typically use ONLY #1 on all my projects for appearance and extra span capability. Typically, #1 can span ~10% further than #2. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif but check your span tables, then build.

bugstruck · Jun 5, 2006

Roger all that. I was on # 2 S. YP. Something I picked-up on years ago was that exterior application tables reduced spans for the same material and same live/dead loadings and spacing. Not sure exactly why but I observed it on PT deck spans 20+ years ago. Perhaps it's the PT process itself or the exterior application, but something they are factoring shortens the spans on PT vs. non PT materials. Here is the link I incorrectly referenced. southern pine span tables
That's too far for a 2 x 8 at 50/10 loading on an exterior deck and we know that. Now perhaps your on a 50/15 table but that shouldn't grab a full foot. The only other possibility I can think of for the PT deck span reductions is the decking itself but that supposes a compression failure IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Not likely. Interesting stuff to us construction types. Booooring to most. Good discussion L39.

bugstruck · Jun 5, 2006

Roger all that. I was on # 2 S. YP. Something I picked-up on years ago was that exterior application tables reduced spans for the same material and same live/dead loadings and spacing. Not sure exactly why but I observed it on PT deck spans 20+ years ago. Perhaps it's the PT process itself or the exterior application, but something they are factoring shortens the spans on PT vs. non PT materials. Here is the link I incorrectly referenced. southern pine span tables
That's too far for a 2 x 8 at 50/10 loading on an exterior deck and we know that. Now perhaps your on a 50/15 table but that shouldn't grab a full foot. The only other possibility I can think of for the PT deck span reductions is the decking itself but that supposes a compression failure IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Not likely. Interesting stuff to us construction types. Booooring to most. Good discussion L39.