Anyone have a trencher

   / Anyone have a trencher #1  

woodlandfarms

Super Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
6,149
Location
Los Angeles / SW Washington
Tractor
PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
Was looking for thoughts. I need to lay around 200 feet of pipe and electric, trencher costs 500 a day to rent. Thinking about rigging up a used Toro Dingo trencher I found online and for its cost It would pay for itself in 2 days.

But, driving backwards, trying to trench.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #2  
I don't have a trencher, but was also thinking of getting one for my 425. PJ (RIP PJ), had one on his PT425 out in Montana. He used it quit a bit and found no problems driving backwards to pull the trencher. You aren't going at any kind of speed where you're going to ram into anything. I don't think it would be much of a problem at all. I'd think about marking out the trench line with some orange paint and then just aiming the rear of the machine towards that line as I went.

I did pull in 100' of water line with a homemade pipe puller. To get near the house, I had to do that one backwards and it was no problem at all.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #3  
We laid 1700ft of 2" main line PVC sch 40 for our place.

Rented a trencher for that but rented a Ground Saw for the arteries to
feed all the rotors.

Now THAT'S Florida where if you're 3"-6" you're out of the frost zone.

Let's just say that your depths may vary :laughing:

I'd never consider buying and that was 10 yrs ago.

Now? I'd pull Flex PVC trough the ground with my tractor from a spool with a sub-soiler plow.

But that's just me.

Installing Water Lines with a Subsoiler - YouTube
DIY Underground Wire layer/Pipe layer - YouTube
Siromer pipe layer - YouTube
Farm Tech Supplies RP1 Ripper and Pipe Layer - YouTube
Siromer pipe layer - YouTube
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #4  
I have one. It has a practical depth limit of about 24 inches. I have used it for several thousand feet over its 17 years of use. Generally I am pleased with it. Issues and concerns are:

1. You have to put oil on the chain every 20 minutes or so. Not a big deal, just do it.
2. The chain has to be tightened occasionally. Just like a chain saw.
3. It does about a yard every three minutes. Just a guess, it is slow, but not a big deal.
4. It is kinda jerky.
5. When you try to go below 18 to 24 inches is gets slower.
6. It is a little hard to keep it down. So the bottom is not completely even.
7. The trench will not be perfectly straight.

I have not used it lately, but I would say two thirds of my use has been for other people. I have a lot of people who owe me in the area. That is a good thing.

These are not big problems and I would buy it again. Oh, it has a life of about one mile per Terry I believe. I am at least two thirds through that.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #5  
I'm bummed to hear the practical limit is only 24" or so. That would be fine for wiring, but water lines here need to be down around 54" as I recall.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #6  
I rented a large walk behind trencher to put in about 230 feet of conduit/conductor from a pole to my cabin. I got it done in a day. The soil was rocky, and the trencher jumped around like a bucking bull. It beat me around so bad I felt like I had been in a wrestling match all day. If you have a lot of rock, my advice is to get a small backhoe. If not rocky, a trencher will work fine. If sandy and not rocky, a subsoiler and pipe layer attachment should be ok.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Because I have the larger machine, I am thinking about getting a used toro dingo or bobcat trencher head and adapting it. For the moment I am looking to run a bunch of stuff in one trench (water, septic and power) to a shop. I have used a sod cutter and pulled just water but that won't work with septic. 250 feet. A ride on machine is $500 a day, $300 for a pusher. A used trencher is $1500 to 2K. Doing a walk behind sounds painful for sure.

I do have a backhoe but would like to get this done in my lifetime. Then again, whats the rush, right? Save myself the $2K and make a wider and potentiall deeper trench....
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #8  
I trenched over 2000 feet in sand. After renting most rental units that all got stuck and buried in the sand I bought an attachment for my track loader.
The attachment cut liek a hot knife through soft butter and never got stuck once. The wide tracks floated over the sand and trench as needed.
It paid for itself in the first moth, then I sold it for darn near what I paid for it.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #9  
54 inches is out of the question. Frost line is 18 inches here.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #10  
We have rocky soil here. I hand dug my first trench on this property - 9" wide 20" deep and 33 feet long. Took 3 days in the middle of the summer. Still had a few other trenches to dig here & there, spaced out over the next few months. Went out and bought a backhoe for the tractor. Ended up with a lot more projects than I'd expected. It paid for itself in rental fees or hiring it done many times over.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #11  
Generally I am pleased with it. Issues and concerns are:
I have one as well. Cuts fairly fast, but this is yet another tool (like the PHD and tiller) where having a reversible spool on the PTO would be useful.

Where I live, I catch a rock between the chain and sprocket guard about every 15 min. And it jams in hard, and bam! no more trenching. Only solution is to pull out a chisel and sledge and crack the rock so it can be pushed out of the sprocket.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #12  
I just sold my Steiner trencher attachment. It's one of a few things quite useless around here with the stony ground. Shame! That thing pretty much jumped out of the trench every time it hit a stone.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #13  
The two major attachments I could not find at anything that came close to being reasonably priced were a back hoe and trencher...I watched CL and local auctions etc for a couple of years...I was at the point of planning on building my...the trencher parts were about impossible to find...even the badly abused skid steer trenchers were priced high...I contemplated converting one to 3PH use...
I ended up buying a used Ditch Witch 3610 with a back hoe for less than a new trencher attachment cost...Having an independent back hoe has been a godsend...likewise with the trencher...
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #14  
Carl,

I have the PT trencher for the 14XX, and 18XX series. It works great. It will do 4’ no problem. I use both the 4” and 6” teeth. Rocks do occasionally jam it, and it takes 20 seconds to clear. I pop it out of the trench, put on the ground to the side, backup 6” or so, and the rock falls out.

I highly recommend that you put a visible chalk line for the entire route. One big disadvantage for PTs is the articulation makes it challenging, at least for me, to keep a straight line by eye. I need the chalk line to keep the trench on course.

It is great for lots of other chores, such as trail building, fracturing soil to speed up bucket excavation, and digging holes for trees and shrubs. It is so so at cutting large tree roots, and it would have a hard time in solid rock, when you would need a Ditchwitch with carbide teeth, rather than blades.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #15  
I have one as well. Cuts fairly fast, but this is yet another tool (like the PHD and tiller) where having a reversible spool on the PTO would be useful.

Where I live, I catch a rock between the chain and sprocket guard about every 15 min. And it jams in hard, and bam! no more trenching. Only solution is to pull out a chisel and sledge and crack the rock so it can be pushed out of the sprocket.

I forgot that. I keep a hammer and chisel in my tractor toolbox just for that reason. We don't have as many rocks here, but it does happen.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #16  
You can use it to break up ground by sweeping it left and right. Then switch to the bucket for dirt removal.
It could be that mine would not did deeper is that I am too impatient. It just seems very slow below two feet deep.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #17  
I'm bummed to hear the practical limit is only 24" or so. That would be fine for wiring, but water lines here need to be down around 54" as I recall.

Moss - You should be fine at 40" - most people around here go 3' unless it is under driveway or unheated concrete/paved area. But why would you trench when you can have it directional bored and not tear anything up. The guy charged me $600 to lay my water and gas lines to my shop and connected the water. He brought his mini-ex and the boring machine. The mini-ex to dig at the ends for connection points. In just over two hours he was done and a lot less mess than any trencher and no settling for the next year. I just talked to a guy about a month ago that had water ran to his new house site from the street with connections for $500 - no damage at all to his lawn.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #18  
That's interesting as I have to put in new water line a couple hundred feet. I stopped and asked an operator how that directional drill worked. He explained but I still don't understand. How it's guided, how one knows where it is? How they then can pull in pipe?
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #19  
That's interesting as I have to put in new water line a couple hundred feet. I stopped and asked an operator how that directional drill worked. He explained but I still don't understand. How it's guided, how one knows where it is? How they then can pull in pipe?

I never understood it either until I saw it the other day. The tip has a small flat plate on the end mounted at an angle. The tip is connected to pipe through which water is pumped. The water really does the boring as it is very high pressure and jets out the end and machine just pushes the tip forward (it does not spin to "bore" the hole, most of the time it just pushed through the soil unless it is really hard). Since the connection back to the machine is rigid spring steel pipe they know the angle to the tip and it is shown on a screen in front of the operator. So to change directions they rotate the tip so that the angled plate changes the direction of the boring action. Of course they have to stop the length of a pipe section and add another pipe but that is quick. they went 100' on my property in about 6 minutes.

The tip also has a magnet in it and they have a box that a guy walks along and can tell the location and depth of the tip at any time. This is also transmitted back to the operator's screen so he has the information. they cannot change direction very quickly, i.e. about 10 degrees per ten foot so a 90 degree turn has about a 90' radius.

Once they have bored through they unscrew the boring tip and put on a unit that has mesh wire that are like chinese finger locks. these slide over the capped end of the tubing you are going to use. then they start retracting the boring machine and somebody has to feed the out of the coil into the hole so it does not kink and they pull it back through removing sections of pipe as they go. When they are done retracting they have the pipe through. In my case they pulled a 3/4" water line, a 3/4' gas line, and a tracer wire.

In my case we had to turn a fairly sharp corner for the last 15' into my house and they dug a quick trench for that end of it with the mini-ex and intersected where the lines were (the directional boring machine had to start back a little so that it had a certain length to get to depth). The lines had been pulled out where the boring machine went in so once they had broken through the intersection of the trench and where the lines were one guy was there and the other was at other end of the lines and he pulled them back into the hole until the ends got to the intersection and then they pulled them through the trench. The hole is larger than the tubes and is muddy from the water that is constantly being injected as the tip bores so you can pull 3-400' of line no problem.

The tricks in all of this are:

1) Knowing how to operate the machine and to pay attention as to where the tip is as it is going so that it:
a) goes to the right end point
b) you know where to dig to for the intersection point
2) Knowing how to dig the intersection point without nicking the lines
3) Having people who pay attention so that you do not pull the lines back to far when trying to get the ends to the intersection.

All i had left was a little mess on each end from digging out the dirt and a little hole with some mud around it in my lawn where they had set up the machine. There were also some track marks as the soil was a little moist and where those tracks turn it ripped up some grass.
 
   / Anyone have a trencher #20  
Thanks for that. What happens if they encounter a rock or boulder?
 

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