Anyone have a plasma cutter?

[em14]

Thanks for the info ...
Leo

 

[rrw1238]

I dont have a plasma cutter. I would like to have one but I think I would back away from the harbor freight units. Most of thier stuff that I have purchased has been kind of marginal in quality. They do have one thing that I appreciate and that is a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. I dont think you can get that on a Miller or any other brand that I know of.
Ralph /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[sleepyhollow]

jimgerken,

That duty cycle (at least for welders) is defined (based on a lab test at full current/amperage draw) as a percentage of a 10 minute period that you can weld/cut continuously before you have to stop to let the internal components cool down.

So if your duty cycle is rated for 35% you can theoretically cut for 3 1/2 minutes continuously before waiting 6 1/2 minutes for the unit to cool down. After the 6 1/2 minute cool down period you can start a new cycle.

Of course the way in which duty cycle is calculated is rather contrived and done in a lab, so your results will vary. Because the figure is arrived at by running the equipment at the highest current/amperage draw, using a lower current draw or taking breaks in between cutting will increase your "effective" duty cycle.

Most cutting will not require the highest current setting if you have a unit sized appropriately to your needs and the properly sized unit will not keep you waiting for cool down periods too often. This is somewhat academic for the homeowner but I hope it clears up any confusion.
Sleepyhollow

 

[slowzuki]

I like my Hypertherm 600, like they mentioned, a square pierce won't happen on 1/4", only 1/8. But if you tip the head like a normal torch you can pierce just fine.

Ken

 

[JRP]

The $99 air compressor I bought from harbor freight lasted less than one day. They were very good about taking it back. I bought a used engine driven Emglo on ebay for $400 and have never regretted buying quality.

I also bought my new Miller MIG unit on ebay. Free shipping and no sales tax. Miller has been superb as a brand.

I'd have a used quality plasma unit over a new low quality unit, even if it costs more. It is so valuable
to run into town and pick up the parts. Consider also that you reduce your risk. If it is good enough for a pro it for sure will work for you, and this kind of tool should last you for 15-20 years. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif No parts makes one worthless. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[J_J]

HI DAVE

I HAVE A LINCOLN PROCUT-25, AND A PROCUT-55. I RESEARCHED PLASMA CUTTERS FOR A LONG TIME BEFORE I BOUGHT. I DECIDED TO STAY WITH THE NAME BRANDS. THE PROCUT-25 IS 110V AND WILL CUT UP TO 3/8 . THE PROCUT-55 IS 230V, AND WILL CUT UP TO 1 1/2. YOU CAN PICK BOTH OF THEM UP, BUT ITS BETTER OF YOU HAVE A CART. THEY BOTH CUT PRETTY GOOD BUT THE AIR SHOULD BE CLEAN AND DRY. I MAINLY GOT MINE TO DO SOME PLASMA CUTTING USING A COMPUTERIZED CUTTING TABLE . THE CHEAPER ONES WILL WORK, BUT YOU HAVE TO CONSIDER WHERE TO GET REPLACEMENT PARTS. MOST WELDING SUPPLY STORES WILL CARRY ANYTHING YOU NEED FOR THE NAME BRANDS. TRY AND GET A MACHINE TO CUT THE THICKEST METAL YOU THINK YOU WILL EVER CUT, AND I THINK YOU WILL BE SATISFIED. ONE OF MINE, I BOUGHT AT WHOLESALE, AND THE OTHER ONE FROM EBAY.

J.J. PT-1445

 

[omo46gg]

I've been looking for a short time, and there seems to be a huge difference in price between some of the name brands vs. some of the off-brands. For instance, Harbor Freight has a Chicago Electric (their house brand) 35 amp plasma cutter with a 40% duty cycle for $899. A similarly-equipped Miller or Lincoln (or even ESAB) is almost twice as much.

There's also a 30 amp plasma cutter that's a discontinued Chicago Electric model on Ebay right now at what looks like might be a pretty good price.

Specs on both of these say they will cut up to 3/8" steel plate. At this power-level, should I expect the cut to be really neat, or jagged and ugly?

Does anyone own one of the Chicago Electric plasma cutters? Any problems with it? I started my welding experimentation with a $150 Chicago Electric flux-cored wire feed welder, and it was pretty crappy. I replaced it with a small inverter-based Chicago Electric stick welder, and I'm pretty impressed with it. I have an ESAB Heliarc 161 AC/DC TIG welder now also, and I love that one machine! I'm thinking (based on the quality of the CE stick welder that I have) that these seem to be reasonable levels of quality, at least plenty good enough for home workshop. I favor the inverter-based devices because they tend to be small and lightweight, and usually have low current draws compared to their transformer-based counterparts...these characteristics are important to me in a home workshop: I can run things off a 30-amp 220V dryer circuit.

Anyway, please share your experiences if you have any.

Thanks!
Dave

Hi Dave ;
I think I can help you. Depending on the matal and thickness you need to cut
the Chicago Electric plasma cutters work fine. I have their latest model which is a 13 amp job good up 3/8 inch, it cuts very clean and at this time does not devour comsumables as many other units do. If the larger models work as good as the one I own, then I would say save your money and buy Chicago Electric. This is not to say the more expensive machines are not worth it, but if your finances can't handle Miller or Hypertherm, Chicago Electric will do no harm.

omo46gg

 

[dfkrug]

For instance, my Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38 is rated for 3/8" cut, but it will not pierce 1/4", so for above 3/16" you must start the torch from an edge or existing hole. The cut quality in 1/4" is not that great, pretty slaggy. To cut a 8" diameter hole in 1/4" material required three sessions, due to the machine stopping to protect itself from heat buildup. It will cut for about three minutes continuously at full power, then must have a minute to cool.

I often cut 1/2" steel with my Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 51 and it works
fine, though 1/2" is slow. After cutting a bunch of steel in the years I have
had this unit, I cut pretty much everything with the torch in full contact with
the material being cut. No standoff. I bought plenty of extra torch tips, both
standoff and contact tips. I rarely change them. The outside of the nozzle
and internal swirl chamber are also "consumables". I bought the straight
cutting guide, but I don't use it. I DO use guides for almost everything...
usually they are just 1/4" steel straightedges, but I will also cut shapes
out of 1/4" MDF. I have a hole cutting guide made of 1/4" aluminum plate.
I get plenty of slag on anything I cut over about 1/8", but I am efficient
at just knocking it off. I have never overheated the unit and always keep
it at max (40A), even with cutting sheet steel. Great tool.

 

[toy]

dfjrug I have seen articles talking about cutmaster 51 and articles talking about cutmaster 52 what is the difference between these two machines [same thing for cutmaster 81 and 82]? Is it just a different model year or are there diferences between the two machines and will the cutmaster 82 run off of regular 220 volts single phase or is it a three phase machine?

 

[RichT]

From my experience, whatever they rate the unit at, cut that figure in half for what it will cut fairly cleanly. Also, consider duty rating. For instance, my Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38 is rated for 3/8" cut, but it will not pierce 1/4", so for above 3/16" you must start the torch from an edge or existing hole. The cut quality in 1/4" is not that great, pretty slaggy. To cut a 8" diameter hole in 1/4" material required three sessions, due to the machine stopping to protect itself from heat buildup. It will cut for about three minutes continuously at full power, then must have a minute to cool. On thinner materials, (90% of my "work" is in 14 gauge, 0.078", stainless), the quality is excellent. FWIW...

I've been using my Cut38 for about a year. I've cut a lot of 1/4" plate without a problem. Some slag but not excessive. I did manage to cut some 3/8" plate though the machine was obviously near its limit. Works great for 1/4 and below. Technique (practice - practice) can really make a difference on these machines - like MIG welding in that respect.