Anybody use hidden deck board fasteners

[747driver]

In the process of removing old PT deck boards and installing new PT deck boards, the boards are 5/4 x 5 1/2. I would like to not use the normal installation of using screws from the top of the board. Would like to go with a hidden fastener of some kind. The Camo system of hidden fasteners looks good, but not sure i like the idea of putting screws in toe nail fashion. I am more in favor of making a groove ( i would use my plate jointer to do this ) and then installing some kind of metal or plastic clip screwed to the joist. Also would you stain the new boards ( i have had them for 3 months and covered ) before putting the boards down now or wait until spring ? Thanks for suggestions !

 

[EddieWalker]

I've used them on composite deck boards and they all seem to work great. I prefer the metal ones over the plastic ones, but I've never had an issue with the plastic ones. Some of them have to be attached to the bottom of the deck board, which creates more work. The few times that I've done this, I just used what was sold at the store at the time. It seems that they change what they carry, because I've never used the same type twice.

I no longer install 5/4 decking for clients because of how much is shrinks. Modern pressure treating methods forces a massive amount of water into the wood, so when you buy it, it's saturated with water. This takes months to evaporate, and years for the wood to fully adjust to it's true size. The last couple of decks that I used 5/4 on, I installed them as tight together as I could, and a year later, the gaps between the boards where anywhere from half an inch to 3/4 of an inch!!!

For my Grandsons play fort, I used 5/4 boards for his climbing wall. I want gaps between the boards, and I wanted to bend the boards so the climbing wall was angled, and round. They worked great for that, but they cost more then 2x6's, which really surprised me.

 

[KennyG]

I'm not sure which system it was, but my Azek composite deck is installed with hidden fasteners (angled in at edge) and not a one has come loose in 8 years.

 

[War Eagle 2]

I recently installed a Trex deck and used the hidden Trex fastening system. The Trex boards can be purchased with a groove on the sides of the boards. Trex makes a universal "T" clip type of fastener that fits between the boards into the slots on the deck boards and then holds the deck boards flat and also controls the gap (spacing) between the deck boards.

These connectors seemed to work well for me and allowed for a very consistent look and alignment of the deck boards.

If you have the ability to slot the sides of your PT deck boards then maybe these Trex hidden connectors might work for you.

Trex Hideaway Universal Hidden Deck Fastener Clip 5 SQFT Bucket - Trex Fasteners - Amazon.com

The end boards have what is called "starter clips. These are used to begin the install of the deck boards and then side by side boards use the above "T" clips.

Amazon.com : trex starter clips

There are other brands of hidden deck board fasteners that also may work well but the Trex ones are the only ones I have experience with.

 

[Rebeldad1]

take a look at the Kreg deck screw kit.

 

[747driver]

I've used them on composite deck boards and they all seem to work great. I prefer the metal ones over the plastic ones, but I've never had an issue with the plastic ones. Some of them have to be attached to the bottom of the deck board, which creates more work. The few times that I've done this, I just used what was sold at the store at the time. It seems that they change what they carry, because I've never used the same type twice.

I no longer install 5/4 decking for clients because of how much is shrinks. Modern pressure treating methods forces a massive amount of water into the wood, so when you buy it, it's saturated with water. This takes months to evaporate, and years for the wood to fully adjust to it's true size. The last couple of decks that I used 5/4 on, I installed them as tight together as I could, and a year later, the gaps between the boards where anywhere from half an inch to 3/4 of an inch!!!

For my Grandsons play fort, I used 5/4 boards for his climbing wall. I want gaps between the boards, and I wanted to bend the boards so the climbing wall was angled, and round. They worked great for that, but they cost more then 2x6's, which really surprised me.

The new boards are a full 1 1/4 " thick. I got them at Menards which is a large building supply co. up north. They do there own pressure treating and not much shrinkage. I would use composite but it is just to expensive for the time we will be in the home !! Would you wait till spring to stain the boards ? I always like to stain before i install them.

 

[EddieWalker]

I tell all my clients to wait four to six months before staining or painting anything pressure treated. The moisture is going to come out no matter what you do, and it will destroy the stain or paint. Another thing that happens while the boards dry out is cupping. Used to be a fairly safe rule of thumb to install all your boards "bark side up" But now there isn't any way to predict what the boards will do. Cupping happens either way, and with any amount of screws to hold the boards down. I give clients a price for six months after I build their deck to come back, sand the deck smooth with a 1ftx2ft sander that I rent from Home Depot, and then stain after that.

The other big issue is cutting a 45 degree on the railings. There is no way possible to have a tight fit after six months. The different thickness of the 45 cut means different drying, and it will open up. I tell them to expect this, and I'll come back and fill the gap with automotive wood bondo, and sand it smooth. When it's stained, it pretty much disappears.

 

[4570Man]

Pressure treated has gotten so expensive I abandoned the whole idea.

 

[downsizingnow48]

When this house was built they used dry clear straight grain redwood for the deck railing. Those miters are still tight 30 years later. Impossible to get that these days. I use square corner blocks rather than miters, they do not gap as bad.

 

[Diggin It]

So, when a board more towards the middle gets damaged somehow and needs to be replaced, you have to tear the whole deck apart?