Anybody ever replaced linear actuator on snowblower?

[irvingj]

Mine's a GC2310 tractor with M-F 2360 front-mount blower, made by RAD Technologies in Canada, which I believe is the same as snow blowers for all M-F (and Kubota) SCUTs. It came with electric chute controls, which work well, but the deflector control --a linear actuator-- occasionally gets water inside it and then, of course, freezes up and refuses to budge.

I've taken it apart several times, dried it out, cleaned it, re-greased it --even made a new gasket for it-- and re-assembled it. That will work for a season and a half, maybe, before it gets more water in it and I have to repeat the process.

Yes, I can do it, but it is rather inconvenient, to say the least. Some time ago I contacted the manufacturer of the actuator (Emerson Electric, IIRC) and they don't make that any more, also said it was a special OEM configuration. I couldn't even get a gasket for it!

Just wondering if anyone else has had occasion to replace that and if so where they got it. I haven't tried M-F parts yet (I will), but I'm betting that would cost an arm and a leg.

If all else fails I'm sure I could find some sort of replacement, but was wondering if anyone else had any experience(s) with it.

Thanks--

 

[thclimer]

Just for reference the blower on my 1736 came with a Linak electric actuator, see attached pictures.

 

[mrmikey]

Doesn't look much different than a normal actuator, what make it unique? As for water getting inside, mount it upside down if possible, if not what about a corrugated boot off a cylinder...................Mike

 

[Howling]

Linear actuators are about $50 from ebay. Measure the stroke length. your name plate shows 750 N force - over kill for chute actuator. Will see trade off of speed vs force on linear actuators (high force slow or low force fast). I bought a 35 pound force unit for my blower. As Mike said mount shaft down to help keep water out.

 

[Jaylegger]

Whatever you replace it with mount it upside-down (will rub on the chute guide bolt though, did this for awhile) or cover the cylinder with a rubber sleeve. Finding a rubber corrugated protector to fit these is impossible so I fashioned one out of a bicycle inner tube. Just the correct size to snugly fit over the actuator body and fold the top over the end of the shaft and then put the bolt through through it. Experiment with the tube tension. Works really well. An empty yogurt container was cut to fit and is zip tied over the rotator motor. I also sliced a wheel barrow inner tube in two and one of those halves slips perfectly over the bottom of the chute and covers the cogs from snow/ice/gravel. Haven't had any environmental related deflector or rotating issues since.

I'll put up some pics as soon as I find my camera charger, could be awhile.

You'll need to click the + enlarge prompt to see things well.

 

[irvingj]

Thanks!!! I racked my brain trying to figure something out, to cover that $#$%ed cylinder: CV joint boot? Flexible radiator hose? -- you're right, the biggest issue is water infiltration around the rubber seal where the cylinder exits the body. Thought about mounting it upside down --the way it maybe should have been from the beginning-- but there was some reason I didn't like that. (Been a few years since I last played with that idea.)

And of course, the other issue is that the actuator cylinder is round, no problem-- but the base isn't, so anything "round" --cylindrical-- might fit at the top, but NOT at the bottom. The bicycle inner tube idea sounds perfect! (yes, I have a few of those kicking around that I've cut up for other purposes.)

I always clean both the actuator and the worm-drive at the base after use, and park it in the sun if possible, to get that area clean & dry before the next time... but that actuator still gets water into it after a while. The chute rotator worm drive, I've never had much trouble with; usually a good whack will break up any ice there. It's that actuator that's always been the bugaboo-- have to remove it, bring it inside, tear it apart... etc. Takes me about an hour.

So the first thing I'll try is the inner tube idea; to others' suggestions, thanks for those as well-- nice to know of other brands of actuators, when & if I need to replace it. thclimer, your set-up is the way it probably should have been done, from the back, where forces on the deflector are properly centered; as you might see, the M-F version is on the side. Not the best, but it works....

What a great forum-- I knew I was just too close to the problem, and needed some additional input -- Thanks again!!

 

[irvingj]

It's working! The tube I had JUST slips over the base of the actuator body -- nice fit! Next, to attach at the top....

Progress so far:

 

[irvingj]

So I cut the tube a bit shorter, and also slipped it down over the base of the actuator assembly a bit further. I used a 1.75" diameter tube, which fits beautifully --slips over at the base, but tight-- and I'm thinking I'll only have to use tube patch cement to close up the top. I also made two holes for the upper bolt to pass through, again a tad on the small/tight side. Tested it for the full length of extending & collapsing, and it "crumples up" nicely.

So it's like a sock! It should work well to keep water out of the rubber seal where the actuator tube slides in & out, yet will be easily removable if necessary. :cool2:

Thanks --LOADS-- again for the suggestion, Jaylegger! (Don't know why that hadn't occurred to be, but it didn't. Gettin' old, I guess!)

 

[Jaylegger]

irvingj, I probably spent 40+ hours over several years searching for a corrugated weather shield type boot similar to a shock dust boot. During that period I did find one listing for something similar but sized for a much longer actuator for a satellite dish and there was no way that would fit. After a couple years searching for every conceivable match I finally gave up looking which coincided with me having to change a tube on one of kids bikes and then a light bulb finally went off.

 

[Jaylegger]

oops double post