any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[MultiMow]

Thank you. Should be straightforward then. I did notice in the operators manual they recommend hydraulic fluid in the transaxle. Do they use a different pump then the 325/322?

As per the hydraulic repair shop I'm having rebuild my transmission... either working fluid is fine. Sundstrand (the manufacturer of the transmission) specifies hydraulic fluid. Some manuals say motor oil, some say hydraulic, and one of Sundstrand tech manuals specify ATF.

In my experience, hydraulic fluid seems to work best. It doesn't lose viscosity as fast, and tends to run cleaner.

 

[MultiMow]

Xfaxman,
I’m going to look at my first 328 soon with 3800 hours on it. It has been maintained by the local toro dealer. Are there differences between the 325/322 and 328 other than the Kubota engine? I know what to look for on the older models, but have never seen a 328. During the inspection is there anything particular I should look at? Thanks for the help.

The only major difference I've noticed, is the oil filter location on the Kubota powered 328 is a pain in ***** compared to the Mitsubishi. My two 328s ran and operated much stronger than my 325s. The steering cylinder on the 328 is much cheaper to replace than the 325. The electrical harness is much cleaner on the 328. Alternators and connectors are more easily sourced for the 328. To my knowledge, all 328s used the bidirectional clutch on the 4wd models (as opposed to the one way used on many 325s), unless equipped with static drive kit.

 

[MultiMow]

Any suggestions for getting the oil filter off my 328... or at least a NAPA part number for it?

Whoever put the last one on, either forgot to lube the gasket, overtightened, or both.

I've tried cup socket (none of mine fit), tried strap wrench (not enough room for ratchet), tried doing it by hand... last resort is hammer and a screw driver. I don't want to do that without the part number, 'cause I need the numbers off the filter (not visible without removal).

 

[Xfaxman]

NAPA has Toro in the Website: https://www.napaonline.com/en/farm-tractor-parts/toro_mower/groundsmaster_328-d/filters

My 2004 328D is Toro 108-3841, NAPA:

 

[Asymair95]

Had the driveshaft for my guardian deck rebuilt. The old one had worn splines and was bent .750” and would wobble pretty good. New shaft, new U joints and we are back in business. New shaft from Toro is $550, to rebuild mine was $240.

 

[Xfaxman]

Can't tell from your picture, is the new shaft rectangular or square?

If square, it could be put on with the u joints out of phase causing it to vibrate.

 

[jrsavoie]

Wouldnit be possible to put a quick tach on the drive shaft , like my John Deere 400 garden tractor has? It would be much easier installing the deck

 

[Asymair95]

It’s square, I’ll be careful with the phasing. The driveline shop couldn’t get the correct splined shaft for a replacement. They also couldn’t find aftermarket ends that would fit. New ones from Toro were $180 each. I ended up reusing the old ones.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup: Works for you, wouldn't work for me since I have more than one mower deck.

 

[Asymair95]

Installed the rebuilt pto shaft today. Still have some vibration, but much less than before. It appears to be coming from the tractor side of the shaft. Gearbox side tracks straight and true, tractor side has some wobble. When installing the shaft I noticed the tractor side coupling was slightly loose in the spot where it is pinned and usually runs. But, if I slid it one inch out or in on the splined shaft it would get tight again. Obviously that one spot on the shaft is worn. Question is, can I I slide the coupling down and drill a new hole for the roll pin without destroying the main pto shaft?