any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[jrsavoie]

What does it take to change the rear pinion gear on the 1998 325D? 1998 Toro 325D Groundsmaster 4x4 Model Serial 30795 - 80161 Mitsubishi engine K3D-109436

On the schematic, it shows the pinion gear Pt#30 , but no part number. How do I go about finding one?

I can not get the broken bolt out.

What should I have ready? Extra parts I will need?

Is that a Toro specific part or Could I get it someplace else? I do that with the Mitsubishi parts.

The service book says Replacement input shaft and gears are only available in matched ring and pinion sets

Looks to be a Dae Dong rear axle

The rear differential has noticeable movement. What is the fix for that?

Toro Master PartsViewer

 

[Xfaxman]

Is the steering cylinder behind the axle like this?

The 1998 drawing is for the one-way clutch, (Edit: Not true, it is the Bi-Directional clutch.) here is the # 30 you mentioned.

Right click and open in a new tab to see it bigger:

If the steering cylinder is at the back, you need 1999 through 2001, with the bolt:

Part number 100-2555 for the matched gear set:

 

[jrsavoie]

I finally got the bolt out and ran a regular tapered tap in. I'm waiting on a bottoming tap to finish. It seems like the bolt should go in farther

"Is the steering cylinder behind the axle like this?" NO. My steering cylinder runs parallel with the frame under the machine.

The 1998 drawing is for the one-way clutch, here is the # 30 you mentioned.

You need 1999 through 2001, with the bolt:

I checked the 1999 numbers and the spacer, bolt and washers that hold the bi directional clutch on all have different numbers than the hardware I have here. I am going to order them as things do not seem right.

With the clutch on and the spacer tightened up the clutch has about 1/8" forward / back play.

Without being tight, the clutch also has noticeable up and down play on the splined shaft. Like the splined shaft is slightly tapered smaller at the bolt end.

The hole in the clutch spacer is also bigger than bolt, allowing for play.

I thought the clutch should be very solidly mounted. With no play.

From what I am seeing, my drive shaft assembly looks more like a 1999. The service tech I talked to the other day mentioned something about 1999, but I am not sure what he said.

The part numbers I am going to order are Spacer 99-8436, Bolt 33114-070, Lock Washer 32534, washer 33094-00

Years ago I used some shaft rebuilder with a release compound. I was wondering If I should use something like that on the splined shaft or do something to take the play out of the bi directional clutch.

It seems to me that having that much movement up and down on the clutch, puts all the stress on the bolt. It seems like it should fit on the splined shaft with little or no movement up and down. And no movement forward and back when the spacer is tightened down

Or are these made to have the little bit of play there?

Having never worked on one before and the book not addressing my questions, I'm kind of up in the air about what to do.

I thought about making a bushing that fit tight to the bolt and short enough to take the forward and back movement out.

I know fixing the play in the axle mount will help, but I think I will still have an issue if the play in the clutch is not addressed

 

[Xfaxman]

Did some more research. If the steering cylinder is on the side, further down the 1998 list it shows # 83-5370 for the gears:

 

[jrsavoie]

Did some more research. If the steering cylinder is on the side, further down the 1998 list it shows # 83-5370 for the gears:

View attachment 556106

Thank you much.

Do you have any opinions on all that other stuff about the bi directional clutch?

Since I got the remains of the bolt out, I am hoping to avoid dealing with the gears. I'm not out a whole lot by doing what I can and putting it back together. If it shoots craps again, I will have to give in and change the gears.

 

[Xfaxman]

Good that you got the broken bolt out.

Sounds like maybe it was loose and caused some wear. I haven't worked on the clutches yet so can't help with that.

The older one-way clutch was clamped to a longer pinion shaft:

View attachment 556111

Sorry for the blurry picture of my 1996 325D:

View attachment 556113

 

[Turbys_1700]

Just saw this thread...
I'm traveling 85 miles tomorrow to look at a 325D...
I hope to bring it home...
Here are the pics...
Owner states 455 hours and A+++ shape...
Any input would be appreciated...

 

[jrsavoie]

Just saw this thread...
I'm traveling 85 miles tomorrow to look at a 325D...
I hope to bring it home...
Here are the pics...
Owner states 455 hours and A+++ shape...
Any input would be appreciated...

If it's a bargain, nab it. These Toro's seem to be pretty well made. For us they are also very comfortable to run. I had a Kubota GF1800 and nobody liked running it. I wish I had it back now because I need something with a narrower deck. But it was not near as comfortable to run.

What year is it?

Find all the grease zerks and grease it religiously.

Honestly, after getting into the 325D that I am working on, it would not be my first choice.

Way to many important grease zerks. I do not like the way the glow plug indicator works. I like a glow plug controller that turns on a and shuts off automatically. I don't know if that's available on Toros.

But for a low hour machine at a decent price I would be all over it.

what kind of price are you looking at?

I run bio or a lubricity additive on all of my diesels

 

[jrsavoie]

Good that you got the broken bolt out.

Sounds like maybe it was loose and caused some wear. I haven't worked on the clutches yet so can't help with that.

The older one-way clutch was clamped to a longer pinion shaft:

View attachment 556111

Sorry for the blurry picture of my 1996 325D:

View attachment 556113

Thank you much for all of your input. You have been extremely helpful. With the posts being online, I'm sure the info will help many more.

No apologies necessary for the pictures. A lot better than I can do with the old flip phone. Our camera broke a few years ago and we haven't got many decent pictures since.

Today the plan is to see what needs to be done to fix the slop in the rear axle mount. I haven't found any info on the correct fix in any searches. I thought it would not be hard to find info on that, since the 2 service techs I talked to made it sound like a NOT uncommon problem

 

[Turbys_1700]

If it's a bargain, nab it. These Toro's seem to be pretty well made. For us they are also very comfortable to run. I had a Kubota GF1800 and nobody liked running it. I wish I had it back now because I need something with a narrower deck. But it was not near as comfortable to run.

What year is it?

Find all the grease zerks and grease it religiously.

Honestly, after getting into the 325D that I am working on, it would not be my first choice.

Way to many important grease zerks. I do not like the way the glow plug indicator works. I like a glow plug controller that turns on a and shuts off automatically. I don't know if that's available on Toros.

But for a low hour machine at a decent price I would be all over it.

what kind of price are you looking at?

I run bio or a lubricity additive on all of my diesels

455 hours. I can get it for 3k. Not a smoking deal but OK.