Buying Advice Any opinions on 1533?

   / Any opinions on 1533? #42  
That's exactly what the manual states. "the tractor must be stopped". I've tried engaging the lock with the tires completely stopped. It never goes in for me. I find that if I slowly rotate the tire, it then engages.

I start out with it stopped and if it doesn't engage immediately hold it down and slowly move. It clicks in then. It's sorta like an old non-synco-mesh, straight gear tranny...if any one here is old enough to remember them.

You'd have to try and pull it into gear. If it wouldn't go, you'd let out the clutch a bit, to get the teeth to align, and pull it into gear, most of the time with a little crunch.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #43  
Tractor stopped, depress pedal and release clutch, as soon as I lose traction, the pedal just pops up. If I keep my foot on it, it pulsates up and down. Like this one: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting/317695-locking-rear-end-wont-engage.html

If it's pulsating, then I'd say your dogs are worn enough where it is slipping in and out of lock. This I think now becomes a warranty issue.

Just to clarify for future use, the manual states that to keep it engaged, the pedal must always be depressed for as long as you need lock. It may be a good idea to come to a complete stop before you release the pedal once you clear the traction problem. From your link, I too do not like the design of the locking mechanism. Seems prone to failure with the slightest operator error. I would guess the largest amount of error has to do with engaging lock with tire spinning rapidly.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533?
  • Thread Starter
#44  
If it's pulsating, then I'd say your dogs are worn enough where it is slipping in and out of lock. This I think now becomes a warranty issue.

Just to clarify for future use, the manual states that to keep it engaged, the pedal must always be depressed for as long as you need lock. It may be a good idea to come to a complete stop before you release the pedal once you clear the traction problem. From your link, I too do not like the design of the locking mechanism. Seems prone to failure with the slightest operator error. I would guess the largest amount of error has to do with engaging lock with tire spinning rapidly.

I've always been careful to come to a stop before depressing the pedal. I do keep the pedal depressed, but it will most often times just pop up and down (with my foot on it). It does stay engaged on occasion if I keep enough pressure on it. Haven't looked close enough to see if there is an adjustment that I am missing. Since it is a new tractor, I suppose things could be out of adjustment.

Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated!
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #45  
Hi Steve,
Still liking the 1533? I looked at one this week (which is why I am now researching on the web). I know NOT MUCH about real tractors so the sales guy's info must be linked with (not to be disparaging) "real people" info ;) He grew up locally and has been around tractors all his life but has only been at this dealer for 2 weeks and since they just started carrying Mahindra (they've been selling Massey for quite a while) they gave them to the new guy, he has to start somewhere and someone has to be the first to learn the new line right? He personally has an older Deere about the same "size" which he says does more than it should for him (you guys know how it is right, just a LITTLE more!), but said the 1533 would do more, never had to take the Deere to the shop but said if he had to replace it, he would buy the 1533. He seems pretty genuine, but don't all dealers?

The only real concern with the tractor on the lot was getting the parking brake on. The lever KINDA went up and when it did engage, it could be felt but it sure wasn't a positive or "repeat first time every time" thing and the light on the dash never went on. Does your parking brake lever give positive visual indication it is engaged, like it moves UP and stays there? I ASSUME it is just something that needs to be adjusted.

Interesting the guys here are saying to load the tires, he said that because the weight is centered farther back than on some other tractors, the loader can lift more weight. I guess there is a limit to everything but that limit can be changed a bit.

My situation is:
- about 4 acres of pasture. It was let go and I had a guy down the road sickle-bar mow it last year and this year. LOTS fewer big weeds out there this year than last. I'm hoping if I can keep it cut down before the weeds go to seed, the grass can reclaim the land. If I get hay eating animals, they would have feed, if not, maybe I can sell some hay. So I need a sickle-bar mower.
- ~20 acres of woods, mostly hardwoods. I would like to harvest 4-5 cords a year for my own use. The land (pasture and woods) is ANYTHING but flat with a lot of ledge, some very visible, some hinted at in the pastures by the rise and fall of "crests" some of which are CLEARLY ledge at the peak. So besides having to make a "logging road", I'll have to winch out and around. But that could be some years out, get the low hanging fruit around the edges first, right?
- I figure to get a backhoe for it so I can dig out the rocks in the pasture that are too big for me, my spading fork, shovel and a lever bar. I've pulled out any number of rocks that seem to have NO connection to each other as to the the type of rock. I guess the glacier that carved this area brought rocks from far away. And then there was the "rock" that when I tried to find the perimeter turned out to be the peak of a long ledge that sloped down. I could pick up the grass, roots and all and see a couple of feet down the ledge. Is there anything like a 3 point jackhammer I could get to just bang out a few inches of these big "rocks"? I wish the people who settled the area had had a love of TNT ;)
- And I want to dredge out the shallow mucky pond behind the barn. It was really dry here a couple of years ago, at least half the "surface area" was dry clay that could be picked up in 8" chunks 3 or 4 inches tall. If we don't have another such drought, I would have to just reach as far as I can with the hoe from the outside until we do (NOT ASKING FOR DROUGHT!). Not sure what the "base" of the pond is but the SE side is pure sedimentary ledge that slopes down into the pond. Don't know how deep it goes before it starts rising up to the ledge peeking out about 100' away on the other side of a fence. I have NO idea how the fish (bullpout catfish presumably, the biggest I've seen was about 6" long and dead) and frogs make it through the winter every year.
- And a post hole digger for its obvious use.
- pallet forks so I can stack wood in "moveable units" rather than having to pick each piece up, put it in some sort of conveyance, take it out and stick it in racks on the porch every week. I moved about 8 tons last winter and that does not include stacking it in the barn when it was delivered or bringing it from the porch into the house - add another 8 tons. Oh, or putting it in the stove, add another 4 tons. Why don't I look like Charles Atlas???
- And maybe some land leveling implements (or are those attachments?) Again, not sure WHAT to use since nice looking grass on top might be only a couple of inches above a massive ledge which could be solid rock or "easily" removed sedimentary rock. I have no idea if the lack of flat around the house is due to rocks/ledge or just a job poorly done but I suspect the device needed depends on the answer to that question. Plus, I think rocks are the biggest non cash crop in Vermont, they just keep pushing up out of the ground.

Sorry for the long post.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #46  
The only real concern with the tractor on the lot was getting the parking brake on. The lever KINDA went up and when it did engage, it could be felt but it sure wasn't a positive or "repeat first time every time" thing and the light on the dash never went on.

I'm assuming, and you know what that means, that you realize that the parking brake is merely a lock for the foot brake. You have to press and hold the pedals while you lift the lever. It's not a real parking brake like you'd find in your car or truck.

As far as the light goes, the light on the dash doesn't go on with my 3016 either. There are a lot of unused light spaces on the dash. A way to make it cheaper, I guess.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #47  
I'm assuming, and you know what that means, that you realize that the parking brake is merely a lock for the foot brake. You have to press and hold the pedals while you lift the lever. It's not a real parking brake like you'd find in your car or truck.

As far as the light goes, the light on the dash doesn't go on with my 3016 either. There are a lot of unused light spaces on the dash. A way to make it cheaper, I guess.
Yes, I realize that and so does the sales guy (but thanks for mentioning it because you never know what someone doesn't know). It didn't seem right to him either. But since he is almost as new to Mahindra as I am, he couldn't be sure if it was WAD or is in need of adjustment.

Kind of odd that they have a dash light for the parking brake but don't use it! Maybe your's needs a little warranty check in that regard.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #48  
Yes, I realize that and so does the sales guy (but thanks for mentioning it because you never know what someone doesn't know). It didn't seem right to him either. But since he is almost as new to Mahindra as I am, he couldn't be sure if it was WAD or is in need of adjustment.

Kind of odd that they have a dash light for the parking brake but don't use it! Maybe your's needs a little warranty check in that regard.

Remember that Mitsubishi makes these tractors for Mahindra. They use the same parts for their tractors. To cut costs for Mahindra, many different items are left off. In reality, If you could get a Mitsubishi branded tractor, you would most likely have a better more deluxe machine. ;)
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #49  
Remember that Mitsubishi makes these tractors for Mahindra. They use the same parts for their tractors. To cut costs for Mahindra, many different items are left off. In reality, If you could get a Mitsubishi branded tractor, you would most likely have a better more deluxe machine. ;)
Good information, thanks. It will likely be useful to people besides me. Best I can tell from their website, the closest dealer is in New Jersey.

Mitsubishi, Tractors, Farm Equipment Dealers - Mitsubishi

It is good to know they are built by a long time reputable industrial machine manufacturer.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #50  
When I got my 3016, the Mitsu factor was a huge plus in my mind.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #51  
That specific tractor looks to be (overbuilt) and that doesn't seem to be a bad thing in the tractor world. I want one but the wife say nope. She asked if the tractor that I own was not getting the job done, I sadly told her that I have yet to find a task that it could not do.

I am curious to hear someone chime in who owns one of these - perhaps a review?
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #52  
I wrote my opinions on the 1538 a short time ago at around the 50hr mark. A little over 80 hers now. Look for it in the Malinda owning/operating forum.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #53  
how does a dash light for the parking break make a machine nicer.... sound more like a handicap for common sense
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #54  
how does a dash light for the parking break make a machine nicer.... sound more like a handicap for common sense

Only nice if you pay attention to it and not go off with the brake set and the light clearly on. Don't ask me how I know.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #55  
Yeah that sucks... but after you use that tractor long enough youll be able to speak its language and know its on right at take off
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #56  
I'm considering the 1533 also. I have been anguishing over brand and horsepower and also open vs cab.
The John Deere salesman said I needed a 50plus horsepower for my 59 acres. An aquantance told me his 28 hp Kabota is all I would need to pull a 6 ft bush hog.
A friend just purchased an LS so I called the nearest dealer. The salesman I talked to said LS are ok but he would go with Mahindra. Turns out he carries both. He said he was a mechanic for Kabota for 5 years and prefers the Mahindra over them now. He said in his opinion, Mahindra first, Kabota second and LS third. He said he wouldn't have a John Deere.
Any thoughts?
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #57  
Honestly I think it depends on the size you're looking at and the tasks you have for it. If all you ever plan on doing is pulling a 6' bush hog, most any brand in the 28-30 HP range will do so, depending on terrain. Lots of hills? You may want more power. Main thing is it feels comfortable under your backside for your given task. I'd advise some "test drives" at the dealers.

If you have specific tasks that require certain abilities, study the numbers of the spec sheets. If you need to be able to lift X amount of weight, you want to be sure you're choice will do it.

When I was making my choice, my primary task for my machine was to fit into certain areas, and move earth. I couldn't go much larger than the average sized 40HP unit, but needed the weight for stability on my hills, as well as to provide the digging forces needed to move earth easily. What it boiled down to for me, which was hands down the best choice, was my 4035.

I do agree with him that I'd never own a new Deere.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #58  
Brush cutting, maintaining a driveway approximately 1/4 mile long, moving dirt, relocating stone for house and retaining walls. The salesman quoted the unit with a grapple apparatus!
He said the 35 horse should do everything I need and more.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #59  
I'm assuming, and you know what that means, that you realize that the parking brake is merely a lock for the foot brake. You have to press and hold the pedals while you lift the lever. It's not a real parking brake like you'd find in your car or truck.

As far as the light goes, the light on the dash doesn't go on with my 3016 either. There are a lot of unused light spaces on the dash. A way to make it cheaper, I guess.

Actually the parking brake only locks down one pedal if you have the pedals split for cutting brake action. To get both wheels to lock you have have to have the brake pedals coupled together.
I've pulled off with the parking brake still set more than once but I don't think a dash light would have helped prevent that.
 
   / Any opinions on 1533? #60  
I'm considering the 1533 also. I have been anguishing over brand and horsepower and also open vs cab.
The John Deere salesman said I needed a 50plus horsepower for my 59 acres. An aquantance told me his 28 hp Kabota is all I would need to pull a 6 ft bush hog.
A friend just purchased an LS so I called the nearest dealer. The salesman I talked to said LS are ok but he would go with Mahindra. Turns out he carries both. He said he was a mechanic for Kabota for 5 years and prefers the Mahindra over them now. He said in his opinion, Mahindra first, Kabota second and LS third. He said he wouldn't have a John Deere.
Any thoughts?


Agree somewhat in the size range your looking at it would be Mah. then Massey, Kubota, then NH but with Massey would be ONLY if you have a well established dealer near you... I couldn't jump in the LS or Kioti wagon and deere tractor once you get over the E series compacts are not a bad machine at all.
 

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