Any one have there own saw mill ?

[Gunny]

Neighbor that used to live next door bought a bandsaw mill (not sure of the brand) just so he could build his new home. His farm had been logged sometime in the past and he didn't have a whole lot of good trees to work with, so he started sawing lumber for other people on shares. For 3 or 4 years (he did this part time), he had lumber stacked to air dry in barns, garages, his side porch, etc.

When he finally accrued enough lumber to build the new house, about the only lumber he had to buy was some 22' glulams, OSB and plywood.

Then he sold the sawmill for $2500 less than he'd given for it, so he likes to tell people that his new, large house only cost him $2500! False economics, I know, but the day he moved in, his house was fully paid for.

 

[newbury]

I have some pretty ambitious plans for a barn, equipment shed, and various other structures. I also prefer the old timey look of wood structures. AND I happen to have 8 to 10 acres of pines 8 to 16 inches in diameter I want to get rid of and turn to meadow. So, I got to thinking why not cut and mill my own lumber. If you have done anything like this, I would like to here about it. I have been researching home type band saw mills, and think I might have a good idea here. Any two cents will be welcomed. Thanks.

Join the club.

8" to 16" pine is small, I don't know if 8" is worth cutting up.

IF you already have the "infrastructure" it's definitely cheaper than Home Depot.

To do it I think you must have:
2 chainsaws (one to get the other unstuck)
A prime mover (tractor, truck, ATV) to move the logs
Lots of chain
2 peavey's or cant hooks
Plenty of space
Sawmill
Tarps or something to protect the wood before it's used
A wallet deep enough for your "desires"

Basically if you already have the tractor the mill can be a "small" jump, especially if your LARGEST log is under 24".

I started out with a CSM and processed a few trees, but the graduation to a BSM was well worth it. There is a wide range of "home type band saw mills". From DIY w/ scrap to a 50 plus HP for over $50K.

When I was buying I viewed the "home type classes" as:
DIY - and I'd never get it done
Harbor Freight - $1,600 w/ coupons but they may not be selling anymore
Entry level manual about 10HP - now about $4,000 - like the Woodmizer LT10
1st step up - about 15HP like the Woodmizer LT15 about $7K
"trailered" mills - $10K and up out of my price range so I didn't investigate heavily.

I went with the LT10 because it does what I need. Almost all my trees are < 24" and I could easily justify the $3K prices. With lumber prices around $300/MBf I figure my break even comes with about 10,000 board feet or 20 good trees. Based on that I'm halfway there. One of my greatest initial needs was for rough cut "2 by's" for heavy duty shelving for my pallet racking. Based on that parameter I've paid for the saw mill.

It's a moderate amount of work for a good result. To me it sure beats cutting the trees up for firewood.

 

[dmccarty]

...

To do it I think you must have:
2 chainsaws (one to get the other unstuck)
...

You don't really need two chainsaws, just one chainsaw and a poor/cheap man's chain saw...

The poor/cheap man chainsaw is having a second bar and a second chain.

I have managed to pinch the saw once or twice. I just take the chainsaw off the bar and chain that has been pinched, and put on the second set, to cut out the other set. PITA but cheaper than a second saw. :laughing::laughing::laughing: Thankfully, I don't get the saw pinched that often anymore. Now that I have said that, I will get pinched finishing up some work I have been doing.

Once, I was working at the end of the day, and I should have left the tree well enough alone.... Got the saw pinched and it was getting dark fast and I at least had enough sense to not try to cut the other bar/chain out. I just took off the saw and left the bar and chain in the tree. It was there when I got back a week later. :laughing::laughing::laughing: It sure was not walking off by itself.

The hardwood I am cutting into firewood would sure make good lumber but I could never justify the time and money for a sawmill and I did research the mills.

Later,
Dan

 

[DrRod]

I've done that too -- pinched the bar and then took the saw off. Like you, I figured "who is going to take it given its pinched in a tree." It was a week till I got back with another blade and I was surprised how much the pinched chain had rusted. And the blade showed some weathering too. Once out, it was obvious that the blade had been dented near the tip and was done for. But I soaked the chain in oil and with just a little wiggling it was good to go. All in all, I think it was my ego that suffered the most damage. :duh:

 

[dmccarty]

I've done that too -- pinched the bar and then took the saw off. Like you, I figured "who is going to take it given its pinched in a tree." It was a week till I got back with another blade and I was surprised how much the pinched chain had rusted. And the blade showed some weathering too. Once out, it was obvious that the blade had been dented near the tip and was done for. But I soaked the chain in oil and with just a little wiggling it was good to go. All in all, I think it was my ego that suffered the most damage. :duh:

It is amazing how fast rust appeared but put the bar and chain on the saw, cut some wood, and the rust is gone. Most of the pinches just cost me calories and time, but one did squish the bar. I need to go check and see if I fixed the bar after it got badly pinched. :confused3::shocked: I have been sawing every afternoon if work and weather allows and I want a spare bar and chain near at hand.

I think I am loosing what little mind I have. :laughing::laughing::laughing: I meant to go to the dealer today but I completely forgot. :confused3::laughing::laughing::laughing: Guess it worked out though since I need to check on my other bar. If that bar is bad, I need to buy another and some bar oil. Might as well get a new chain too. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Later,
Dan

 

[KYErik]

My dad bought a really old Garr (sp?) circle mill last year. It needed lots of work. He probably has about $3-4K in it but lots of hours of fabrication (it initially had a wooden track). The pic shows it with a 48" blade powered by an 85hp JD 2840. He now has a 52" blade on it. The track is 40+ feet long so he can saw a 20' log.

There was a steep learning curve- everything has to be sharp and adjusted perfectly to keep the boards coming out straight and the blade from heating unevenly and warping/wearing the wooden blade guides. We saw mostly white and red oak + a few post oaks and hickories.

Lots of ways you can get hurt. Not something you ever want to do when tired or distracted.



I built a band sawmill about 6-8 years ago. It works OK, but the blades had to be really sharp and good and tight to avoid waviness. The circle mill can outcut the bandmill by 4x, but the bandmill will cut a 28" x 16 foot long log (circlemill is limited to about 24") and is only 10 hp electric... Here's a link to my bandmill build thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/74963-home-built-bandsaw-mill.html

My bandmill with 17" wide white oak boards stacked up in the background.



I added a second 5 hp electric motor to cut faster. Hydraulic pump/motor controlled feed rate. Electric drill raises/lowers cutting head.

 

[RandyBell]

My brother-in-law bought a band saw we have used for years now! I think it will handle a 38" wide log 18' long, it has a 24 hp Honda engine and hydraulic drive, it is from American Band Saw, which is across the road from me. We have put a lot of wood through it and you start seeing things that would make things more productive. 8" logs are a waste of time, you won't get much more than a 4X4 out of it and small logs are very hard to hold!
We use a skid steer with forks to load ours, but have used the boom on the back of the tractor, it doesn't take long to figure out the manual loaders aren't worth the time. Depending on what you are wanting to build I would suggest drying the boards at least 6 months to a year by air drying, use plenty of slats between each layer and some kind of weight on the top layer. Keep it covered to keep the moisture off but let the air flow.
Hopefully you have help because it is a job for one man, not only loading the saw, but removing the boards to! Plenty of saw blades are a must as well.
Hope that helps, if you have any more questions just ask I'll do my best to help!

 

[rmorey]

We bought a 16' trailerable bandmill made by a local guy. Then we found out, we needed a tractor to load it. Then, we needed a trailer to move the tractor.

Mill has a 16 hp Vanguard B&S gas engine. Does a great job. Mainly cut Eastern White Cedar now, but cut lots of red oak, maple and white birch. Also did some custom cutting for folks for a few years for $60 / hour. Made enough to pay for everything. (not including any wages) in 2 years.

 

[crazyal]

I have hired people to come here with their "portable band saws". The last time I did I paid about $.15 a board foot. Another option is to check around for a small mill close by. Often times they will sell green unplaned lumber pretty cheap. They may even do a partial trade for your wood.