Another Top N Tilt Question

[John_Mc]

I recently added TNT to my NH TC33D. After a few teething pains (thanks for the pointers, Bird) I'm starting to get used to it. I put on the box blade yesterday for the first time (I know, I know... why do you need TNT for brush hogging?!). I've noticed two things that don't seem right:

1) I believe the link is too long. It will only rotate about 2 or 3 degrees forward of level, but rotates back about 17 or 18°. Forward doesn't seem like enough, rear is probably more than I'll ever use. I don't really have a good area to test it out at present, since I can't randomly tear things up until the site for my septic system gets defined. Anyone have a good idea of what a normal working range for of forward/aft rotation on a box blade is? I've only used it a few times with the old manual link, and it seems I was farther forward when using the scarifiers. I have a call in to the dealer who installed it to see what the next size shorter cylinder is.

2) I believe there must be air in the system somewhere. If I rotate the box back a bit, then lower it onto the ground, the top link cylinder compresses 3/4" or so just from the weight of the box on the ground. If I pull forward to put it under a slight load, it compresses even more. (Could any of this be related to the fact that one of the fittings was not even hand tight when I received it? It did not get any heavy use in this condition, but I did move the cylinders around quite a bit before I noticed and tightened it up).

Thanks for any info any of you can provide.

John

 

[Bird]

John, it does sound as if your hydraulic top link is too long. When I did mine, I measured the original equipment manual link, both fully extended and fully retracted, and wanted the same length. The one I bought was close, but no cigar. And sure enough, I had about the same problem you have with the length. I could have done it myself, but instead took the cylinder to a hydraulics place and had it shortened on both ends.

As for your second problem, I never had that happen. I had a tractor dealer tell me to move the lever to fully extend the cylinder and hold it there awhile (which will open the tractor's relief valve), then do the same thing in the other direction, etc. to bleed any air out. I just didn't have to do that myself. It never seemed to have any air to have to get rid of.

I posted pictures of my box blade tilted all the way forward and backwards after shortening the top link, but they are probably not in that thread anymore.

Bird

 

[Bird]

John, I looked up the old pictures of my box blade tilted both directions (sitting on a concrete floor) after shortening the top link.

Bird

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>I posted pictures of my box blade tilted all the way forward and backwards</font color=blue>

Here's the picture you posted of the box tilted forward, and the other of the box tilted backward.

Or were you thinking of some other picts?

 

[Bird]

Good timing, Harv./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I had looked back at the old thread and didn't find the pictures, so I found them on my computer and we posted them at the same time apparently./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[glennmac]

Bird, it appears that your valve levers travel side-to-side. If you did it over again, would you stick with side-to-side or go front-to-back. I guess I'm asking your opinion on the pluses and minuses of the geometries in actual use.

 

[Bird]

Glennmac, I would prefer front-to-back but couldn't figure out a good way to mount them that way. Of course, the only real concern I have with the way they're mounted is the possibility of limbs catching on them if I get into brush or trees.

Bird

 

[John_Mc]

<font color=blue>the old pictures of my box blade tilted both directions</font color=blue>

Yep, you've definitely got more forward tilt than I do. On mine, you have to look very closely to see that it's not level. It only goes 2 or 3° forward of horizontal. (measured with an old roofing square as a protractor, and a level sitting on top of it).

Question: as you've got it now, do you find yourself using the extreme range of your settings in normal operation? I'm giong to try the next shorter cylinder, but don't know if that's going to shift me too far the other way or not. I'm guessing I could spare an inch or two without losing too much backward tilt, but haven't heard back yet what the next size shorter is.

 

[Bird]

I do sometimes use the extremes, but probably never really need to use the extreme backwards tilt. And about the only time I need to go to the extreme in either direction is when I'm dragging a bucket full of dirt over a hump or ridge and don't want to dump any of it there. I had to shorten the cylinder 1" on each end and it wouldn't have hurt to shorten it another half inch or so; however, I'm quite satisfied with it the way it is now.

Bird

 

[hayden]

Can you measure your old manual link in it's fully open and closed positions? Ideally you'd want your hydraulic top link to reach the same lengths. As Bird pointed out, that's often easier said than done. I ended up with some (fortunately) minor compromises on mine too, and it was custom made at that.

You'll need to watch two things, one is the close length of the cylinder, and the other is the stroke length. I'm embarrased to say I don't recall what the stroke is on mine, but I think it's 8", and it's all needed to get the reach you need. In my case the problem was getting the whole assembly short enough when closed to avoid having to get a shorter strok cylinder that would then compromise the extended length.

High techie, reciently founded a startup company and struggling for tractor time.