Another Newbie Question - Oil Changes

[8NAcres]

I have been soaking up info like crazy over the past few days. I just bought a used 2006 DK45S with 373 hours on the clock that will be delivered this weekend - so I thought this would be a great time to change all the fluids since I do not know the previous service record. Oil is pretty straight forward (with the exception that the Owners Manual states use 10W-40 and the Service Manual says 10W-30...) so I am now researching what brands I want to get.

I really like Rotella diesel oils for the engine, so I am going with that. Anyone use synthetic - or just straight dino oil?

How the heck do you drain 10 gallons of hydraulic oil without an EPA fine for oil spills? That is a lot of oil to come out all at one time... What tips work best for this? Do most use 5 gallon pails and if so what is the best method to pour it into the tractor? General consensus I am finding is the TSC Traveller Premium UTF works fine - any real arguments?

Front axle 80/90 gear oil seems straight forward - is it? Any specific brand I should be concerned with?

I have a Walmart and a TSC store close to my land. Anything else is a haul. I don't mind making the drive "IF" there is good reason to, but I plan to stick to the maintenance schedule so it should see regular fluid changes.

Thanks again for all your help,
Dan

 

[Soundguy]

Have 3 5g pails reade to drain 10 g into. As one nears 2/3 to 3/4 put the plug back in, swap basin and continue.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I hear most people use UTF in the front as well. I was told to use it in mine.

I just did the first engine oil change on my new tractor. I used Rotella Dino but next time I'm going synth.

 

[DK35vince]

My DK35 I run Rotella T-6 synthetic 5w-40 in the engine.
80/90 gear oil in the front axle.
A heavy duty tractor/transmission oil (UTF) in the transmission.

 

[VictorW]

I run Rotella T-6 synthetic 5W-40 also and since my tractor's first oil change from new. Actually, via DK35vince's advise since we pretty much have the same weather temps. Makes for easy starts in single digits. You're in Texas and probably could use the 15W-40 weight because I don't think it gets as cold there. The Kioti lube chart I posted advises 10W-30 below 32 and 15W-40 above 32. The tractors come from the factory with trans oil but 80/90 gear oil is also approved. I've been using 80/90. I've been able to get Shell trans oil but there are others recommended. Other members have used TSC premium UTF oil with with good results.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Lay a big sheet of cardboard under the tractor to make it easy to slide in and (especially) out when working underneath. Make sure your empty 5 gallon pails will fit under the tractor (I used those big cat litter buckets for more clearance). The tranny oil will trickle out until you pull the oil fill plug at the back; then it will gush; you can use that to slow the flow to swap buckets. Be sure to use premium tractor fluid that is rated for wet brakes; you'll need ten gallons (two more if you put it in the front axle). The premium TSC stuff is fine but check with NAPA if you want one of the brands specified by Kioti. The same oil sump services the transmission/differential and all hydraulic systems. The two big oil drain plugs are tricky to re-install because of the big magnets. Clean all the metal filings from those magnets and also the one inside the hydro oil filter. You'll want a good strap wrench to remove the hydro oil filter; be sure the filter is clean first or the wrench will slip and you can add sandpaper under the strap if you need better grip. To refill the transmission you can transfer fresh oil to a smaller (more manageable) container and pour into a funnel or get some sort of pump. I used this one but I had to add real hose clamps at both ends of the clear hose or it leaked. Otherwise it worked fine.

The engine oil has two drain plugs; you need to drain both. Be sure to use Diesel (Cx) rated engine oil that covers the specified viscosity range. Synthetic (Rotella or Mobile 1) is fine (I use it) and it will reduce wear (clings to metal longer) and will make cold starting easier (lower pour point temp). But you can't extend change intervals with synthetics (like with gasoline) because you need to change oil to get rid of accumulated soot. Make sure you have proper-size filter wrenches on hand for the oil and fuel filter (I think I used the end-cap type).

For the transmission and (especially) the front axle drive the tractor a little after the work and then re-check the oil level again. There is an oil sight glass on the left-back side of the front axle.

You'll want to check the clutch and brake adjustments. The owners' manual covers this pretty well. Replacing a clutch is a big job in a tractor; the machine has to be split in half, including every connection between the front and back. So be kind to your clutch. I don't know how to find out if the shift fork was replaced but my advice is to shift gently. Do not try to jam it into gear as if you were speed shifting at the drag strip. I suspect operators bear some responsibility for bent forks.

Finally, you want a torque wrench to check the torque on all the wheel bolts and the loader bolts. Don't losten them first; just tighten to the spec torque fine if it moves and fine if it doesn't.

You may find plugged grease fittings. You may be able to remove and clean them; so far that worked for me. Or you might break them. They are an oddball size (the thread where they screw in) so your best bet is to order a few from a dealer if you need replacements. You'll want a decent grease gun. I use an ordinary manual gun but I also have a pneumatic gun that speeds big jobs. It seems grease fitting balls come in many sizes and I lost a lot of grease until I got a LockNLube which hasn't leaked at all. It's pricey but it sure cuts down on the mess from escaped grease (and saves some grease in the bargain). Whatever type grease you choose (sodium or lithium) stick with the same type

 

[8NAcres]

Great info! I don't have any 5 gallon pails now - but it looks like I will after the oil change for the next time. I might just purchase a plastic storage tub from Walmart that will hold 10 gallons (?) Ritcheyvs - thanks a ton, you have been a godsend and have helped quite a bit. In my research I am seeing the shuttle linkage is of poor design and gets stiff/hard to turn. This may be a cause of all the bent forks(?) Many speak of lubricating the joint right above where it goes into the tranny - but say it is hard to get to. Have you messed with this yet? If so, what lube did you use (grease, oil, lithium, etc)?

Thanks again,
Dan

 

[StuartDK45SE]

Ritcheyvs pretty much nailed it. I used the same ATF in the front axle that I used in the tranny. Using a big measuring cup I carefully poured it in and checked the sight glass. When you think you've almost got enough in, I'd drive the tractor a little if I was you. That sight glass is goofy slow to react sometimes. I even drove my front tire up on a berm to twist the front axle to force the fluid to flow everywhere and rechecked several times when back on LEVEL ground.

Only other thing to mention is that my hydraulic filter on our DK45SE was very tight which is mentioned often here. I eventually got it loose with a strap wrench but it was tough.

I was able to find Shell Spirax S4 at Apache Oil in Pasadena which is about an hour away. If you have a bulk oil place nearby, you may give them a try.

 

[Soundguy]

On grease fittings, dint mix bases, if you go to a new grease, pump all the old out of the joint if applicable.

 

[8NAcres]

Why are the hydraulic filters on so tight - and do they need to be installed that tight?