Egon
Epic Contributor
Why not get the Woodchuck to help chuck wood too?
Another Chain Saw Question
- Thread starter GarthH
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KHNewman
Bronze Member
I'll make this my last post on chain sharpening since it has very little to do with the actual original post but seems to have spun off into a tangent which I never intended.
First off the whole reason I posted the original comment was exactly what other people have said in this thread that for a novice, occassional user it is faster and easier to keep a few sharp chains on hand than to mess around trying to learn how to sharpen them by hand.
I agree that another option is to buy an inepensive chain sharpener.
As for some of the other smart *** coments, I am quite good at hand sharpening compared to the average homeowner or part time chainsaw user but compared to people who have worked in logging full time for 20+ years sharpening multiple chains per day every day I cannot say I am in the same class and I would doubt most others on here are either. I also have not worked in logging for almost 20 years now and use a saw only a dozen times a year these days so it is rarely worth my time to hand sharpen when I can take my 4 chains down to the shop and have them sharpened for $20. These days I only hand sharpen if I am out of sharp chains and need to keep cutting.
As for the comment about the "little sister" I am sure anyone can run a file across a chain the question is does it make a menaingful improvement in the chain. Frankly most homeowners have no idea what a sharp saw cuts like. The majority of the time people have handed me a saw they told me was sharp I wouldn't even consider using it without shapening or changing the chain.
I am not saying it is the most difficult skill by any means but I have seen a wide variety of results when people hand sharpen and I gave the poster my advice based on his skill level and level of usage. If you disagee that is fine and you can encourage him to file away as much as he likes...
First off the whole reason I posted the original comment was exactly what other people have said in this thread that for a novice, occassional user it is faster and easier to keep a few sharp chains on hand than to mess around trying to learn how to sharpen them by hand.
I agree that another option is to buy an inepensive chain sharpener.
As for some of the other smart *** coments, I am quite good at hand sharpening compared to the average homeowner or part time chainsaw user but compared to people who have worked in logging full time for 20+ years sharpening multiple chains per day every day I cannot say I am in the same class and I would doubt most others on here are either. I also have not worked in logging for almost 20 years now and use a saw only a dozen times a year these days so it is rarely worth my time to hand sharpen when I can take my 4 chains down to the shop and have them sharpened for $20. These days I only hand sharpen if I am out of sharp chains and need to keep cutting.
As for the comment about the "little sister" I am sure anyone can run a file across a chain the question is does it make a menaingful improvement in the chain. Frankly most homeowners have no idea what a sharp saw cuts like. The majority of the time people have handed me a saw they told me was sharp I wouldn't even consider using it without shapening or changing the chain.
I am not saying it is the most difficult skill by any means but I have seen a wide variety of results when people hand sharpen and I gave the poster my advice based on his skill level and level of usage. If you disagee that is fine and you can encourage him to file away as much as he likes...
There's no question you should take your chains to a professional for sharpening, or now a days there are some pretty good chain saw sharpeners for "home" use.
I like the Garrett Wade 45T01.02 electric chainsaw sharpener. It's less than a hundred bucks, and has an automatic chain feed.
There's some good information about using a chain saw sharpener and different types of chain saw sharpeners at the "Chain Saw Sharpener Guide".
I like the Garrett Wade 45T01.02 electric chainsaw sharpener. It's less than a hundred bucks, and has an automatic chain feed.
There's some good information about using a chain saw sharpener and different types of chain saw sharpeners at the "Chain Saw Sharpener Guide".
MossRoad
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Why not get the Woodchuck to help chuck wood too?
That thing wants to eat it!
Wayne County Hose
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Well maybe I was a little out of line. My little sister only cuts about 20+ cords of firewood a year so maybe she doesn't know how to file a chain. I don't think I've sharpened a chain in a year but I could do it right now with no problem. You don't have to do it everyday to be able to do it correctly.
My only point is that if you took the time that you spent going to get your chains sharpened and learned to sharpen them instead, you would be proficient at it in no time. I thought that was a lot of what this website was about. Learning how to do things and sharing information so you can do things yourself.
My only point is that if you took the time that you spent going to get your chains sharpened and learned to sharpen them instead, you would be proficient at it in no time. I thought that was a lot of what this website was about. Learning how to do things and sharing information so you can do things yourself.
"Professional" chain sharpening isn't always a good option! My FIL was clueless about sharpening chains and was also very good at finding subterranean rocks and embedded barbed wire to saw, so he took his destroyed chains to the local, otherwise reputable, Stihl dealer for sharpening. Invariably, they would cut fast, but crooked. I figured it was more user error or a worn bar, but I tried cleaning one of them up with my dremel, and it cuts perfectly!
The bad part of the story is now I get to sharpen ALL of his chains, plus my two BIL's chains!
I do find that it is lots easier to do a really good job on a chain with the dremel if I use a head-worn 3x magnifier.
- Jay
The bad part of the story is now I get to sharpen ALL of his chains, plus my two BIL's chains!
I do find that it is lots easier to do a really good job on a chain with the dremel if I use a head-worn 3x magnifier.
- Jay
RavensRoost
Gold Member
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For a person like yourself hear is my recommendation.
for $500 you get everything a guy that has nothing needs to go out and cut firewood safely.
bailey's firewood kit
Bailey's - Efco Firewood Cutting Kit
ya i know its not a stihl or husky... but i can guarantee the Efco is no worse than a HD poulon.
Puting a quick file on a dull chain to bring it back to life for a few more cuts before you swap out loops is a skill that takes time to master. Untill then feel confident knowing that a few backup inexpensive loops and carefull operation will keep you cutting wood all day long with only a few backup loops.
Good package and Efco made most of the John Deere chainsaws, but that deal is done, no more JD saws. I hear they are going to carry Stihl (branded Stihl) now.
RavensRoost
tractorman99
Silver Member
Nothing beats a husqvarna chainsaw
BigE_
Platinum Member
Regarding the electric chainsaw.. I have both a Stihl and a Shindaiwa (both good saws), both gas powered, and I use these most of the time. However, when I'm splitting wood, I'll occasionally come across a limb that I missed or just didn't cut short enough.
For that reason, I keep a cheap little Remington electric handy. It *always* starts on first pull. <grin>. I pick it up, pull the trigger, run it for 15 seconds to cut the offending limb, and then it sits until I need it again (maybe not for 20 minutes). It does have the automatic oiler and the quick chain tensioning system which so far has worked well.
Now, if I were to go electric for my primary saw, I'd take a hard look at the Stihl electric. (I did when I bought the Remington). The Stihl electric is a workhorse. The Remington is a plastic toy. But, it does what I want it to do. The Stihl was 5x the price, and I just couldn't justify it.
-Steve
For that reason, I keep a cheap little Remington electric handy. It *always* starts on first pull. <grin>. I pick it up, pull the trigger, run it for 15 seconds to cut the offending limb, and then it sits until I need it again (maybe not for 20 minutes). It does have the automatic oiler and the quick chain tensioning system which so far has worked well.
Now, if I were to go electric for my primary saw, I'd take a hard look at the Stihl electric. (I did when I bought the Remington). The Stihl electric is a workhorse. The Remington is a plastic toy. But, it does what I want it to do. The Stihl was 5x the price, and I just couldn't justify it.
-Steve