Another adding hydraulic lift to sickle mower.

[countrybumpkin]

I've been on the hunt for several months for a sickle to mow around the ponds and possibly use to cut about 12 acres of hay. I ran across a newer Case IH 1300 9 ft in excellent shape very low use and kept inside, had to give 675 for it but thought it was well worth it. I'm thinking along the lines of a hydraulic setup like a enorossi does anyone know what size cylinders they are using ? I'm going to try and get some measurements off mine to try and come up with a idea of what length cylinder I would need, like to go from about 90 up to 45 or more down. I did look into the rowes kit but a bit pricey and doesn't offer the degree of down travel for me.

 

[J_J]

I would just take two pieces of PVC tubing, one smaller inside the other and set the end points.

Then raise the sickle nar through the angles you expect to cut and that will be your cyl length and stroke.

With the sickle bar straight up, the ends set, and one tube inside the other, that will be the cyl length.

Lower the sickle bar to the extreme angle you expect to cut and that will be the stroke.

You could also use a short cyl and chain.

You could also use a SA cyl, for power up and gravity down, or a DA cyl for power up and down.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Thanks JJ the PVC had not even crossed my mind. I have some laying around that will work great for that. Not sure on SA or DA yet.

 

[J_J]

Let me suggest a DA valve for your sickle bar mower.

Would you consider a valve that would set the level you want, and when you are finished cutting, just put the valve in detent retract and the cyl will automatically retract fully and the lever will go to neutral.

An inexpensive log splitter valve.

I have considered this valve on several project that could automatically retract and auto return to neutral

http://www.baileynet.com/product/9601

You can use just about any cyl, depends on the geometry. You could install the cyl close to the pivot point, or middle or any where on the sickle bar frame.

Perhaps a cyl like this.

1.5x20x0.75 DA HYDRAULIC CYLINDER

 

[/pine]

I have been pondering the same thing for an old MF 7' sickle mower...it seems it may require an articulated joint of some kind but it's been a while since I was trying to come up with a good design...
One thing though, I think you definitely want a float position on the valve otherwise the cutting bar will go up and down with the tractor etc...

 

[countrybumpkin]

. One thing though, I think you definitely want a float position on the valve otherwise the cutting bar will go up and down with the tractor etc...

That's one thing I have been thinking about also, not sure just how to do that just yet.

 

[nc redneck]

I would think DA with no float would be best. I like the PVC pipe suggestion. I could have gotten a inch more travel out of mine if I had done that. Did not want to chance needing to buy a additional cylinder for a idea that was not tested or proven at the time. I don't think float would work well when cutting vertically or pushing into a 2 inch hardwood.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Well I ordered the cylinder, fittings, and a flow control valve all from Bailey ; should be here in a day or so. I have to build a few mounts now for the cylinder and the balance spring.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Forgot I never posted a finished product pic of the mower. It works really nice I've very pleased with it.

 

[Neil L]

Can you share more photos of cylinder mounting attachments. Thanks,
Neil